Banshee17Racing

I'm runnin' 18" klaws,too. Other than those, I've only tried Razr's. Theres no comparison between the two on the track. I wouldn't mind trying a set of Kenda Gnarly's. I have a buddy w/a YFZ450 who ran some Holeshot MXR4's(outrageous price) and he said they hooked pretty good. But after 3 races, they were completely shot. The front of every lug looked like someone took a grinder to it, he turned them around, but the other side wore down even faster. Soon enough he was riding around with bald tires waiting for his Kenda Klaws to come in .

I would REALLY stay away from a 25" tall tire. You'd gain a couple extra inches of ground clearance, but I personally think it would handle like shit. I just wouldn't be able to through the quad around near as easily with a big tire combo. And if you absolutely need a 25" tall rear, you need to get a 23" front. I had a buddy that ran 23's in the front, and 22's in the rear on his shee with stock gearing and some very mild motor mods and had no problems.

I love my Gorr port. I'm usually on a track or in trails. It's got a VERY strong mid range. It all depends on what kind of money you want to put into it. I still have the stock pistons in there, just honed and put new rings in it! Shee runs great, actually makes it easier to ride through tight, technical shit.

What's Waterloo like? Very big?

Do a little searchin' and you'll find tons of info about this. I wouldn't look into the TR6's unless you never plan on porting your motor, that's if you already haven't. i started out with Toomey T5's and loved 'em. It all depends on what type of riding you do, and where you want your motor to perform the best (ex....top end, bottom end). Eventually I realized T5's were a little too peaky for me, but I still wanted an all around pipe with a little more mid pull, so I bought some Pro Circuits. They're fukkin' sick with the Gorr MX port.

When I did mine, I used some Aircraft stripper in an spray can to strip the paint. I really recommend that first. BE VERY CAREFUL what you spray this shit on! It foams up and if you let it sit for 15 minutes, it'll eat through anything. I got it at Farm & Fleet, but I'm sure most hardware stores have it. My little dremel only worked in the small corners, I couldn't imagine doing that for the entire cover. I used a good sized air dremel with some compound for the open spots.

Yeah, I gave up on riding ditches, too many people dump shit in 'em. Here's some of those pics...

I'm from eastern Iowa, Davenport to be exact. We don't have much room to ride locally, except for ditches, which get old fast, and the fields when they're knocked down. We've got some trails made, but you can go through it all within 10 minutes. I started making trips to Solon about 4-5 years ago, which is about 30 minutes east of Iowa City. I thought it was the coolest place in the world on my little blaster but I HATE that place now. It's all trails, and usually all mud. If you're lucky enough to get there when it's not mud, the trails are so rutted out from the 4x4(trucks, jeeps and quads) that you get sick of 'em after 30 minutes of riding. The ONE and only place we found that you can actually get all four wheels off the ground are two berms. -I personally like to jump, or at least be on a track more than anything- I've been going to Oskaloosa for 2 years now(we call it Oskaloosa, but it's about 5-10 minutes outside of town), which is about 2.5 hours away. This place is the best riding spot I've seen, or even heard of. I can post pics of the place if anybody wants. But they've got four different tracks, all for different levels of riders(almost all of them are always groomed). They also have TONS of woods, and hills, and even some mud for the bigger quads. I've even camped over the weekend there with about 10 people, and we all had a blast. I've heard about the 1500 acre place in Fort Dodge from the guy that grooms all of the tracks in Oskie, he was really talking it up, but I haven't heard anything more about it.

Damn, .171, It doesn't list my score either...

Well, being a Banshee site, you can guess what kind of answer you'll be getting. I've heard Cannondales run damn good, but I would have NOWHERE to go locally to get parts if something would ever happen. So that's one thing to keep in the back of your mind. I personally think the damn things look like frogs, but i dunno. 3 grand doesn't sound like a terrible deal, depending on what you mean by "extra goodies".

yeah, I plan on at least getting the race front w/ a grill sometime in the future. It's just hard to get yourself to fork out the 600 bucks for something cosmetic, when one roll over, or endo can trash 'em so easily.

I would try putting some copper washers under the nut. I did, along with acorn nuts and haven't had any more problems leaking since.

They're usually the same price anywhere. I've heard people going straight through Fullbore themselves @FULLBORE and some people buying from Razorback ATV @RAZORBACKDESIGNS . I would personally go through Fullbore to eliminate the middle man. Post some pics when you get 'em!!

As far as I know, the plug wires aren't suppose to disconnect from the coil. Bur it doesn't make much sense that it's still idling fine. I would guess that you need to replace the plug wires and coil to fix the mis-fire.

I bought a set of the HD Barnett springs and ended up putting three in along with the stock. I tried putting all 6 springs in, but that was a bitch, and I've got a Hydraulic Clutch lever. So I went back to three, never had any problems with 'em.

Fuckin A right! That's bad ass, I never see any ATV's on TV, especially ESPN.

I agree on the T-5's. Look great, sound great, and perform great...

I guess I never really heard of anybody trying. I wouldn't see too much of a difference if any. Are you sure they knew you were talking about the shocks and the a-arms?

I know I wouldn't want Rockets on the tracks around here. But I've seen some vids of "MX tracks" where you could get away with running Rocket pipes. I wanna say somebody on here does run Rockets for MX, I just can't remember who.

UPS has a five day shipping gaurantee in the U.S., if it's not recieved in five days, shipping is free. They also have a tracking gaurantee, if you can't track EVERY hub it goes through, shipping is free. BUT, I did just ship a steering stem out and UPS lost it. So I'll be getting my $100 back, just gonna take awhile to go through the legal B.S. And by the way.....FedEx loaders aren't paid for shit around here, without benefits.

I've been a loader/puller for a year and a half now. Not a bad job, but you will be breaking your back if you do the job as fast as you're suppose to (summer REALLY sucks!) I think it depends on where your work, but you'll be waiting a little while for that drivers' job. I know of people here that have been loading for 4-5 years now, and still don't have enough seniority to be on top of the list. Good paying job, and great benefits..

You usually see them for about $200, I got mine for $170. It comes with a lever, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and plastic/rubber hydraulic line that runs all the way down to your clutch arm. It already comes assembled with fluid in line. All you have to do is install it, which shouldn't take you more than 45 minutes, depending on your mechanic skills. This is the easiest clutch lever I've ever pulled on.

Rocky Mountain sells rims individually. Order one of their catalogs. For some reason they don't always list everything they sell online. The only list wheel packages online, but if you call them, they WILL sell 10x10 rims. RMATV has always been the cheapest tire/wheel place I've dealt with.

You'll want to take a look at your bearings, and your tie rod ends. You'll most likely have to replace you're tie rods, if they're not supplied. I've got Quicksand a-arms and absolutely love 'em. But I think Gary(owner) is pretty backed up with work right now, so it'd take a while to get 'em. I had Works triple rate shocks before I got A-arms and the TCS dual's. I loved 'em compared to stock, they gave a fairly smooth ride. You get what you pay for when dealing with shocks, it al depends on what you plan on doing with 'em. My TCS scs shocks were a whole 'nother world compared to the Works.

A lot of people run aftermarket front shocks with the stock rear shock. In MX, you usually want to keep the front and rear the same. If you buy aftermarket front shocks, you'll eventually want to do something with the rear. Landing on the rear shock helps absorb some of the hit, too. So it wouldn't be a bad idea to just re-work the rear.