scotts96fast

No,I didn't find it yet..............

There might be heavy duty springs in the clutch......If it's all stock just buy a new cable....

running a lid to no lid is 4-5 hp gain.Cutting the last 1.5 off is a lost of .5 hp from no lid at all.Not a big change for you to run no lid at all....

I still have the tires.....

What is your compression at?To run race fuel you should be over 160...

hmmm...but the clucth does not disengage. For starters how did you adjust the clutch?....with no tension on the clutch cable.Did you hold the freeplay out of the pointer and aline the two pointers,by the adjustment on the pressure plate.than fine tune at the clutch lever...

I run 91 or 92 octane with Castor 927 @ 40:1 I know exactly how you feel, only a few places *sometimes* have 92octane...so that's usually what I run too. I had to replace my stator, so I just bought one of their stock wattage stators on an adjustable plate. Advanced the timing +4. You can mod the stock plate to +4, there's a post somewhere on here with pics & info on how to do it....you'll dremel out counterclockwise 1mm for every degree you want to advance. For instance, 4mm would be +4 degrees advance. +3 wouldn't be bad either, like you said; to stay on the safe side...it's up to you, I wouldn't go over +4 unless you have a motor that can handle it. I myself, would suggest modding your stock plate over a degree key, I've heard too many bad things about degree keys. But on that note, I've heard several good things. Never heard anything bad about modding the stock plate or aftermarket adjustable plates. Ride On! Led Zeppelin What kind of compression are you running?

Ok I feel a little better now.I was thinking the same with the above comments.even thou I'm at 150 PSI, that gotta be on the edge. I know the power curve with +4 is pretty good.What about +2 timing at 150PSI?So far I could not find some old post from bancetta when he did his dyno runs.

is its too thin the sufficently I was just thinking the samething.I might weld a litte bushing to the plate and drill through both.We'll see I'm bored as all hell sitting home from work,hoping to go back next week.Just looking for a free mod to play around with......I'm waiting for the shift star and flywheel to get done....

I order mine strait from toomey.they are a high temp. o-ring(orange in color)

just make things easier to drain the coolant...

Has anyone does this.drill a hole,tap it and find the right bolt.seems like there's not alot of room once you put the outside cover on.add some sort of washer(gasket) to the bolt.

I just looked it up $300

Cascade innovations Inc. has them....(503)667-2446...I'm sure they have a web site also.

If you would add +4 timing with the 155 PSI.Would that change the octane?

wrap around the spark plug wire....

yep steel wool is the ticket!!

Jason did a awsome job helping me with my jetting online...In person i'm sure he was flawless.....

I'm enjoing reading and looking at pictures from roostfest.i'm seriously going to try and make the next one..... One thing I have to say about Banchetta...The guy is hard core!!!!!Everything he went through headed to the west coast....

Use a set of BR8es, as opposed to B8es..yes it does make a diffrence. What is the difference between those two plugs?

Yep it's simple!!!!Dennis Kirk has them.....Depending how much ya wanta spend they have some really cool ones around....

i run Klotz super techniplate plate 32:1 in the shee and the weed eater...smeels great trimming the lawan

I put a tiny tach on $40(i think)It's simple to install...One wire around the plug wire and one grounded.... Scott

what he said....

I have a set of Grizzly tires for sale from a 2002...5 miles on them!!! PM me if your interested Thanks, Scott