papa_smurf49319

any updates? Still doin ok? Swelling goin down? Keep us posted on the recovery. Cody

Maybe it doesnt hold up to the fuel, like i said this was in a wet sump on a small block chevy.

wheres the link buddy Nice post edit right as i was postin robert lol

efi wont nessecairly give you more power, it will give you a finer resolution of fuel metering. You might see a increase in mileage, but i dont think it would be worth the hassle.

exactly, i would not hesitate buying a used crank though from someone reputable on the site such as NYUK if they know the amount of hours on the bike, i would then send the crank out to a builder and have them true and weld it and give it a once over. If the outer bearings and the rod bearings are good then there should not be to much of the problem.

Just buy a new one, you will have a hard time trying to get it back together and in phase. Not worth it in my opinion.

awesome videos, very entertaining to watch.

very nice

looks good

what, when, where, why? Details?

umm i think maybe your mistaken, ive used it on oil pump pickups in cars where there is a press fit, and seen many others use it in that particular application where it is constantly submerged in splashing oil, and it seems to hold up well there. I do get what your saying about it maybe breaking off in the intake side and going crazy in the engine though. Just saying i know it holds up to motor oil well.

looks good, ditch the blue arms, and get some black outerwears for the shocks

when you turn youll get some more shit on your legs, but its not terrible. I run full fronts and my buddy has race cuts and hes quite a bit dirtier when were done, but then again who cares who gets dirty when your out riding. Havnt got the nerve to cut mine yet, kinda like the look of the ears, and if i was going to cut them it would only be to get rid of the drag and save some weight. Cody

looks good, need more pics for sure

how good of a deal?

yup go with alf he will get ya hooked up

Now thats a stand up guy right there

they cant be too crappy lol, theve been in there since ninety five, they mic'd out on the thick side also. But that was before i built this motor, we will see how it holds up with six heavy dudty springs in there. Cody

shit next time im in there those damn cushions are gone and a magnum billet basket will be on its way also, hell maybe even a fast clutch. But the stockers still mic out plenty good, who knows. Cody

Exactly what jim at passion said, more oil more power. He said castor nine two seven at thirty two to one is what he runs in all his bikes, thats what ive ran for awhile and never had any problems. Sorry about spelling numbers out the damn cat spilt some pop on the keyboard and now my numbers dont work lol. Cody

i dont think he was being hostile towards you, just saying that if your on a budget maybe your money might be spent elsewhere on chassis parts, suspension, etc and then youll be setup for your dream motor. Now if your like me you build the baddest mofo that you can afford and then find the weak links by breaking them lol

Just outta curoisty, dont know a whole lot about this subject since i still have my stock clutch in there, but could you take the rubber cusions out of a stock clutch setup and would there be any downfalls? Would you still have enough clutch adjustment?

That would be doubling up the oring which was already mentioned

Exactly what broncbob said, at least on smallblock chevys there isnt a whole lot to be had on the exhaust port, the real horspower is in the intake side, you want as straight as possible shot to the combustion chamber without losing to much velocity ie air speed, you want to keep that up thats where the eighteen degree stuff is nice but expensive. None of this applies to the banshee except for the fact that i wouldnt wanna use jb weld or any epoxy for that matter anywhere near any type of extreme temperature.

Here is the contents of his post: The Holyman kicker fix. Here's what you do... You go to the hardware store {Sears, Ace etc.} and buy... 1- .25" steel ball bearing 1- M6x40 allen head screw {I'll give instructions on how to find the right one later} 1- #8 spring 1- #2 spring and 1- #86 spring A- Take the kicker off the bike and clamp it in the vice. B- Remove the kicker lever. If the screw is stripped, drill a 3/16 hole into the OTHER end of the screw not into the head of the screw. You should be able to use a screw driver or a chisel and work the screw loose now. C- Be careful to save the stock spring that is behind the ball. {if it's still there} D- Use a Dremel tool to open up the hole in the post big enough to fit the .25" ball into it. DO NOT use force to fit the ball into the hole, you'll NEVER get it out. E- smear some grease into the hole and then put in the original spring {or one of the springs listed above. You will need to cut it down if you use one of the hardware store springs} F- smear more grease onto the post that the lever slips on to. G- Take the cone shaped spring and cut it in half and put it on top of the post with the small end facing up. Make sure the spring isn't so wide that it is wider than the post. If it is, cut it down some more or bend in the part that sticks out. H- Slide the kick lever onto the post and screw in the allen screw to hold it on. ******** Here's where you need to know how to get the right allen screw. *********** When you go to the hardware store, take the kicker with you. You want to buy an allen screw that has a shank {the unthreaded part} that is long enough so that NO threads are in the groove area of the post. To find this out, thread in the screw into the kick lever all the way. Then look into the hole in the bottom of the lever and see if there are any threads visible in the hole. If not, then you have the right one. I- After the kicker is completely assembled, make sure it rotates smoothly. Then cut off the rest of the allen bolt that's sticking out and re-install the kicker. It should last a lifetime. Some guys will re-install an O ring. Direct Link: http://www.bansheehq...lyman+kickstart