bigboybanshee

Before we can help you we need to know what modifications you have done to your banshee. What kind of pipes, filter, etc. Also, what jets are you running now and what position is your needle clip set at? We can't really help you without knowing that stuff Also, you forgot to tell us what the problem is...sputtering, backfiring, hesitation, no power, etc.. lol

Regular antifreeze is fine, that's what came in it from the factory. I use Engine Ice though...dropped the overall temp of the engine by 15-20 degrees. You can pick it up at your local dealership for 20 bucks a bottle, one will fill your radiator.

He's talking about their Lobo arms, not the overall company...unless I misread his post.

Only way to truly find out is to change your plugs and see what you got....if that doesn't work, let us know and we'll get you where you need to be.

That's what I'm sayin... Man, are there people out there that really can't read posts? It must have been in the invisible print

I'm almost wondering if your impellar gear got jammed up or something and quit turning; which wouldn't flow coolant and cause it to get real hot, etc...Have you checked the compression yet? If you've had it for 6 years and no rebuild, I'd be willing to bet your getting really close if not already needing one.

Yes, they should be flush with the cage. A tiny space between is not bad, but you don't want to have all of them with a gap. You can flip the reed petals over and they'll seal better and keep you from having to buy new ones for the time being.

Same here...I've got two other people going with me that have already asked off as well. Sorry bro!

Theoretically speaking it would work well for any type of riding. It keeps your clutch from slipping and puts the power to the ground

I'll have to agree with that statement. I bought some boyeson reeds and to me they just felt like a stock replacement, little or no improvement power wise. Reeds are really easy to change out though. Once you unbolt the cages you'll see how simple they are to swap out....a few screws and that's it, no space age tools required Just be sure to replace the gaskets when you do it!!!

Me too!!! Thankfully it is a little over a month to go, I'm gonna need another week or so to get my shee together It's getting close though!

I don't really care for them too much, everywhere I look I see one of them damn bumpers...lol I can't bring myself to buy something named "blingstar" either..

Stock should be in the middle but am not sure, I've never messed with a set of carbs that were completely stock.

The bogging could definitely be it not having enough gas....I ran a 30 pilot with my T5's and shee loved it. In the stock Mikuni carbs you'll see the main jet as soon as you pull the carb bowl off. There should be a splash guard that sits underneath/around the main jet and this splash guard kind of disguises the pilot jet. Pull the plastic splash guard off and you'll see the pilot circuit right next to the main jet. All you need is a small standard slot screwdriver to get it out. Courtesy of BenBB....

I'm gonna try it next week, I'll post up before and after pics along with the amount of work done.

Typically a bog means it's too lean...do you know what size pilot jet is in it? If I'm not mistaken, the SST's are more of a low/mid pipe (I may be totally wrong though ) and might like a fatter pilot jet. Does it seem to idle OK? Granted, your filter may be dirty causing some of the problem but if the pilot is too lean, it would definitely cause a low end bog, especially off idle

Absolutely...I would be sure you've checked everything out before going the extra mile and doing a top end job. Have you checked the filter to see if it's dirty/clogged? I know it sounds too easy but it could definitely cause your bike to bog and would make it seem rich.

Not 100% sure, every bike is different to some degree....but 270 mains does sound a little lean for having the air box lid removed. When I ran my Toomeys with no lid I had 290 mains. I think I'm right around 600 ft above sea level.

You are 909 feet above sea level. http://www.city-data.com/city/Pleasant-Hill-Missouri.html

No sir, at sea level (or close to it) the stock compression is 120psi. I'm not 100% sure but I do not believe that going to a higher octane gas could cause a rich condition...If the bike is rich now and it wasn't a couple of weeks ago (when you jetted it) I would bet the farm that the richness you're experiencing is fuel that isn't getting burned due to low compression.

I'd say time for a rebuild!!! Stock compression (with the stock head) is supposed to be 120. With 21cc domes you would be around 140-150 psi so I can imagine with the cool head on there has to be at least 21cc domes in it.