bigboybanshee

That's right, he sent you the black silencers...that's BS, you're entitled to what you paid for!!!

THAT would be fun!!!

I saw the video of it on the news the other night...guy was FLYIN! I couldn't imagine jumping a football field!

Buy it now for 100 bucks + 20 dollars shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMESE%3AIT

LOL, I need to make a flash cartoon for this....

Roger that....I knew they'd work out their "differences" soon enough.

Only on BHQ!! It's like Jerry Springer for banshees

I'd bet breidy has a leak down tester, or could help you make one. They're not hard to make and only takes about 10-20 minutes to test. If I'm not mistaken, there were a couple posts on here about how to make your own leak down tester with instructions on how to use it...if I can find it, I'll post a link. You probably started losing power when the antifreeze worked its way into the cylinder....doesn't combust too well. What do you mean, split crank?

Are you sure it was the head gasket that blew? Could be a crank seal...something tells me that you should do a leak down test and see how well the crankcase is sealed up. breidy was correct, you should NOT see any coolant leaking at the base of the jugs

I, personally, would go with new pistons. They're not too terribly expensive and would save you the worries of wondering how they'll hold up. The clearances inside the cylinder are so tight and critical, I wouldn't take a chance at possibly taking too much off of the piston or possibly making it slightly out of round. Especially given that you're going to be honing the cylinders too, it would be a wise idea to go ahead and have a fresh bore done and get the pistons to match the fresh bore. Even if you can get the scratches out of the piston and have the cylinders honed, you'd still be looking at another top end job in the near future, given that you'd be making the piston to cylinder wall clearance bigger than it is now. Might as well go ahead and get it all done up good, rather than have to do it in 6 months to a year. It's just what I would do... I did something similar to what you're talking about doing when I first got my banshee....the bore wasn't in too bad of shape (a little worn but still within spec), so we just put new pistons and rings in there and got 120psi compression, but it only lasted a little under a year because the cylinder bore wore out and it wasn't building enough compression, even though we had the new pistons and rings...so we had to end up tearing it apart again and getting a fresh bore, with another set of pistons. That's really cool of odaen to offer to help you out, not too many people will do that these days; mucho props to him!!!!

You shouldn't be leaking any oil from underneath your cylinders (where they meet the cases)....if oil is there, then I would think you have a leak between your case halves somewhere along with the leak you're mentioning. The only oil that should be getting in/around your jugs should be the 2-stroke oil you mix in the gas, which you're not gonna see after it's been mixed. What kind of sealer did you use to put the case halves together? I also don't recommend using two gaskets to try and fix the problem. All it would be doing is covering the problem, only to allow it to develop into a much bigger problem down the road.

LOL, I'm thinking the same....if she's daisy duke, I wanna see them dukes!!!

Not trying to be an ass, but what's the point of having all of those quads in your signature with a big (SOLD) next to it? What informational value does that hold? I can understand the ones with (stolen) next to it, but not sold. For the sponsorships...are you looking for someone to just race locally or were you looking for someone to travel and race?

Hey, I'm a BBB too! No sir, didn't notice any difference in shifting after I installed it...except the fact that I knew it was grabbing a lot harder!! Yep, and that bastard DOES NOT slip at all...had me pointed up in the air looking at the stars last time I was at the track Don't know how much it weighs, but it's not much at all. I installed a lightened flywheel at the same time so it's hard to tell if it slowed my revs down any...mine revs really quick now, quicker than before that's for sure. I actually went from an easy pull clutch lever to a standard clutch lever and the pull is the same.

^^^^^^^^^You gotta get those blue fullbores Jeff!!! Man, those are tight!!

That was just wrong

If I were you and had the option to go with new plastics, I'd do either black or blue. Blue fullbores would look sweet, but doesn't really change much considering your bike was blue before.... If you go with fullbores, you definitely need to look into a set of torch lights. If you do, I got the billet mounts you need for them....my dumb ass bought 2 sets when I picked up my lights from RMATV. I'm almost finished polishing that bumper...few spots need a little more elbow grease, LOL...but overall it's gonna be shining like a MOFO. Handlebars are freshly painted and ready to ship, should only be a couple more days, haven't forgot about ya

Well, ironically after I typed my last post, the owner of the track called me back. He went on to say that the NHRA rules stated that you could only run a quad on their tracks if it is totally stock, and is in the same condition as it is sold off the showroom floor. He then said, you could only run 1/8th mile with knobbies, and would have to have radials all the way around to run the quarter mile. After he went into all that, I asked him, "if I could get my banshee through "NHRA" approval to run, there should be no problems, right?" Wrong, he's like, even if you did get them to approve it, I'll never let you run here. He was a total ass and it now shows where the "quads can't run at my track" came from.... Is there any way I can contact the NHRA about it and stick it to this guy? Or am I just screwed because this guy has the bottom line word in the matter?

We only have one quarter mile strip and it's the one I'm talking about...we have an 1/8th mile strip that'll let anyone run anything, but the 1/4 mile track is 10x nicer The lady I talked to mentioned the NHRA, but I figured she was confused and thought I wanted to run at one of their sanctioned events I haven't had the chance to discuss it with the owner, but I'm going to call this morning sometime and see if I can reach him...he had conveniently gone home early yesterday Unless it's the roadrunner I think I'd be alright in that case

See, that's what I figured I would hear...but too dangerous? WTF To be honest I'd be fine running the 1/8th mile track here (which allows quads) but there's a guy at work in a GTO talking smack saying he could smoke me...I'm not one to go back and forth arguing about it, I'd rather just take it to the track and be done with it I guess that's their logic! Actually here soon I might be able to accomodate that...won't be a busa engine but it won't be a yamaha 350, cub, or cheetah either; there's a reason I kept my old frame I still gotta hear how a quad is more dangerous than a bike on the track.

I went with solid struts because I couldn't afford marvin shaws at the time...the struts are fine on asphalt and a well groomed dirt track but if you can afford it, go marvin shaw all the way. I'm changing my struts out as soon as I get the chance. Your swingarm length will be determined mainly on two factors....how much HP you have and what type of terrain you'll be racing on.

I just got off the phone with my local 1/4 mile track (Memphis Motorsports) and those bozos told me that I couldn't run my banshee because it's too dangerous They said it was more dangerous than a streetbike...is it just me or are these guys full of it? I can't think of one slight reason of how a turbo busa is any safer than a banshee...can you? I plan on talking to the owner tomorrow and see if I can work something out, I just wanted to see if anyone on here knows how a streetbike is safer than a quad.....

Ahhhh, no, you're not reading it wrong...you and I were just looking at different options. I was looking at option #3 (customer supplied cover) for 320...I didn't know you were looking to buy another cover. LOL, nevermind!

Thanks man! 400 sounds a little steep to me, you can get the cover modded and the lockout straight from direct drive for 320 plus shipping, and you get your choice of like 5 or 6 different covers (clear, smoke, red, etc.) http://www.directdrivecnc.net/banqcm.html Thanks SheeK!

^^^^^I agree I've got one and my clutch does NOT slip at all. I don't have a 100hp engine but I felt the lockup was worthwhile since I only drag race it. In this pic here, you can see the lockup unit that's bolted to the outside of the pressure plate. It has weights on it too to help with the extra force. If you look close, you can see where they cut the front of the stock clutch cover and bolted the extended piece on there, and added the quick change cover. The billet clutch basket is good to have because it'll withstand the abuse from the clutch disks a lot longer than a stock clutch basket would. They usually run about 250 bucks, give or take a little...if you get a lockout, get the billet clutch basket too.