bansheefreak

i dont think you will find wheels to widen it out that much in the rear... id say get biggest offset you can and mybe some billet hubs that extended 2 inches i think you can get them at rmatv.. but you be better off getting a play axle...

yeah we all know.. your head is so big.. you cant even take a pic with your shirt on..lol hq ride few yrs ago :shrug:

run the spacer if you cyls are not ported for a 4mil... if it is ported for a 4mil crank the biulder will have you setup to run domes.. so if you just have porting and throw in a 4mil crank and think well i'll just run domes.. its gonna runlike shit cus your port timings will be off.. 4mil porting.. run domes... no porting or porting not setup for 4mil run spacer..

ledofthezep has gotten married has couple kids.. but still rides seen him at the dunes few months ago when i was down there on the same banshee...

thats becus you have a plus 10 swingarm..

vf2's have screws that hold the reeds in unlike vf3's and them screws been known to come out and you lose a topend when the reeds get sucked thru the motor...

vf3's are good.. and alky will give you bout 10 percent increase...

ohh ok.. well my stroker domes are 20 cc and i have bout 175lbs.. but they are custom cut so i dont know all the numbers as he is speaking...

if you have 24cc domes.. which i have never seen stock is 22cc.. anyways if you have porting and 24cc domes you be lucky to have 100lbs compression u need to be under 20cc or 19cc to run race gas..

if he gets a cool head he will not spend more on gas unless he gets race domes.. you can still run pmp gas and bump up compression for lil more low end feel without paying more for gas..

the keyway is rounded half moon way and that side sits in the groove of the crank. the flat part faces up. the shaft of the crank tapers but the top of the key should somewhat be level not follow the taper of the shaft..

should work just find ya a biulder to look them over..

just go to local stealershit tell them you need a head gasket or a topend gaskit kit.. normally brand is cosmetic.. that or time to buy a noss head and bump up your compression with domes...

if the axle is for a banshee yes... and the stock sprocket hub.. hopefully you got the nut and c clip when your bought the axle...

the intakes just looks like they took the paint off... the transfers look pretty decent.. but the power is in the exhaust port.. hard to tell by the pics but they look pretty wide... id say 50hp to 60hp at the most

for anyone that might read this and dont know... 450, raptor, (post '90)banshee hubs are all the same.. and if you have a blaster the hubs are diff.. but a set of 450,raptor,banshee hubs will fit blaster splines so you can run your banshee wheels on your sons blaster and/or run a blaster axle in your banshee.. what ever...

pretty much what loco said... put the brake hub on the axle then slide it thru the axle carrier then add your sprocket hub and the nut,c clip .. when you tighten the nut it will tighten all together..

i got a stock head ,,prolly get you the studs too.. pm me if you dont buy from rude

you got the arrows lined up??? the rod and ball in it??? springs on yet?? better yet do you have a clymer ???

not to be nosey but whats your sqiush on this passion motor??? yamaha11.. but if your not happy with it no use in beating a dead horse...

the one jeff sells is the best one... cant beat the fact it has a allen head... got one on my shee works great... thanx jeff...

looks close to a 4mil from the pics. if those are 795 pistons..

another thing to check is.. when you have it running pull the choke out if it runs better your not getting enough fuel..

check your choke tube,also make sure your getting the slides in the right carbs... you can cross them and they will be backwards...

guess i musta got lucky... good thing i got the jugs used...