MILO

that .25 mile put to the your buddy's house may have caused them to be really dark (rich). you need to kill the motor after the 6th gear w/o run. either coast it home, or take old plugs with you to swap out for the ride home. looks like your getting close though, under the circumstances. try it again bud.

there's more to the clutch than just the plates. i'd rule out everything with the clutch before going to a stealership. clutch work is relatively easy, tranny problems means splitting the cases

damn, there's getting to be way too much of this shit on here. i know it doesn't matter where you go, there will be people that you disagree with or disagree with you, but c'mon, deal with it and move on. my kids don't bitch and whine as much as some of you people. go ahead, throw your little tantrum and make an ass of yourself, when you realize how retarded you're being, maybe you'll be back and contribute something usefull to this place again. just for the record, i do agree with stclark816... Boobies.

hey, nice to see ya, uhhmmm... back? here's to ya anyway

by the way, removing the air box lid really lets those pc's breathe, besides sounding awsome from the air sucking in, sounds like a 4 bbl carb opening up. my pc's really came to life after ditching the lid, and rejetting again.

yeah all those springs need to come off, then it's just a bolt or two, pretty simple really. just make sure that the pc's have the rubber o-ring on the inside of the pipe where it fits onto the exhaust ports, or it will leak oil, pressure, sound, etc from that area. the rubber ring makes it a tight fit putting them on, but just wiggle them back and forth and keep pushing till they are on all the way. my pc's bolted up really easy, perfect fit. as far as the jets, post your elevation, normal riding temp range, air flow mods and any others and the guys here will hook you up. start high on the mains and work down. you're better off starting rich than lean. plug chops will tell you which way to go, up or down. good luck bud.

i haven't run anything other than my pc's so i can't do a fair comparison, but i really like them a lot. a huge improvement over stock set up, from bottom to top end. for all the other pipes i've heard, i like the sound the best too. they don't sound like something rattling thru a pop can or like a kazoo. my only other go fast mods are pro flow filter (no lid) and jetted - 360 mains, and boyesen reeds. i couldn't honestly say that they are the best all around pipe out there, but i don't think you could go wrong with pc's.

ronnies.com prices have always been the same as my local shop. they seem to take a while to get things in and then out to you though. going through the shop was a lot quicker, so i don't deal with them anymore. i just use the site for the microfiche and price estimating.

even if you had insurance, if you didn't have your doors locked they probably wouldn't cover it. you have to take some steps to prevent the incident from happening, even as minimal as locking your doors. dogs are awsome for home protection. even the little ones, they are really protective and make enough noise to at least alert you that somethings going on. my trailer for the quad is within the reach of my german shep's chain, so it's guarded pretty well. if someone makes off with my trailer, they are at least going to leave a blood trail my 9mm is always beside my bed, but my family or i would have to be in actual danger for me to use it. anyone inside my house is gonna get it, but outside theiving something isn't worth shooting someone for. in today's world, the thief will make out and your ass will be in jail.

you loco s o b

no problem bud!!

haha, another clutch virgin!! hey, i was 30 years old and with my shee for 4 years before my first time. yeah, the first time can be a little confusing, but after you do it the first time, it will all make sense and you'll see how easy it really is. follow your clymer's and check back here for any problems you run into. these guys here kick ass when it comes to the shee. guaranteed you will not run into a problem that someone else here hasn't already solved. long live the HQ!!

shouldn't the kill switch or key kill the spark of the plugs? how would it keep running? it should just die with no spark. sounds like you have more problems than just a throttle cable.

i'd try adjusting it inside before doing anything else, that's where you need to start. once you pull the cover off, or before, whichever, unhook your cable at the perch, since the adjustment there is way off. with the cover off, you'll see a nut on a stud w/ a phillips head in the center of the pressure plate on your clutch assembly. loosen this nut, holding the stud still if possible. with it loosened up, push on the push lever assembly (where your cable hooks at the motor) until it stops. you'll feel the freeplay and then tension where you almost can't push it anymore. hold it there, and use a phillips screwdriver to turn the stud, you should feel the lever moving as you turn it. there is an arrow on top of the motor near the push lever assembly. when the arrow on the push lever assembly lines up with this arrow, while holding it at the tension point, your clutch is adjusted properly. when you let go of the push lever, it should return beyond the arrow on the motor, towards the gearshift side. tighten up the nut to keep this adjustment correct. now hook up your cable again. you should be able to adjust it at the perch to where your lever has about 1/2" of freeplay, measuring from the tip of the lever to the handlebar. if you can achieve this without maxing out your perch adjuster, you are on the right track. if not, your cable may be stretched and need to be replaced. put it all back together and try it out. you may need to adjust the perch to your own liking afterwards. if after this adjustment the clutch is slipping, dragging or whatever, then you may need to replace the clutch kit or components. IF you feel like it while your in there the first time, pull the pressure plate off and inspect the basket, and all the plates for wear. if the basket fingers (where the fiber plates ride) has a lot of deep grooves in it, it should be replaced. or if any of the steel plates appear burnt (darkened) or warped when put on a flat surface, they need replaced. if the fiber plates are cracked, broken or smoothed out, they should be replaced. inside the shaft where the adjustment rod came out of, should be a rod about 6" long, and a ball bearing. use a magnet to pull them out, or maybe tip the bike on the side and hope they fall out. they should not show any signs of overheating (bluing) and should definitely not be stuck together. be carefull when putting this all back together because the steel plates need to start at a certain location, and the steels need the bump in them to alternate around the pressure plate at certain locations, or your clutch will not work properly. hope that clears things up a little. if i missed anything, i'm sure somebody will add to it. good luck.

i'd love to buy a 2nd one and build it up on my own, from a clunker to a sweet ride. you won't get out of it what you put into it money wise, but if pride and accomplishment is what your after when your done, then i think the worse it is to start with, the happier you'll be with the finished bike.

i guess fixitrod and benbb helped me out the most when i first came here. otherwise, there's been way too many to list. just from browsing around and looking in on others questions/topics, i've learned a lot from all of the posts i've read here over the years, even if i didn't get involved in them. not to mention the day to day entertainment of pics, stories, etc. so to everyone at the HQ --

i've never ridden one, or ridden with anybody that has one for that matter, but i think they look pretty cool. i'm sure there's plenty of mods available for them, just like anything else, that would make it quicker if that's an issue. just from what i've read, if i was gonna go with a thumper, i'd definitely be checkin them out.

i think i'd stay away from this one. if a new one from the dealer is about the same price, i'd go that route. this one just seems to be to risky, and it's not even a good deal.

here's what i have as my desktop right now. it's actually from the yammy website. thought it was pretty cool though.

hit up your local yammy dealer. i just bought one for my nephew's blaster yesterday. $3

i would definitely start out on what seems to be the rich side and bring it down if needed, rather than be running lean. can't help you much with the actual calculation though. start high, and do a plug chop and adjust as needed.

nothing better than getting a free banshee hell, i'd even take an old beat up pos to tinker with, but it looks like you made out pretty decent with this one. congrat's

outside of e-bay, which i haven't bought anything from yet, i usually get things from rocky mountain. they'd have the impeller, but i don't think they carry adj. timing plates. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/

i went into work one morning and found a new chair at my desk in my office, so of course i had to ask why. i was told that a nightshift guy was sick and decided to rest in my office over break. well he had to puke so he leaned for the garbage can, but i guess the stress was just too much for him and he shit his pants and of course all over my chair. must have been pretty nasty to get through his pants and ruin my chair. not really the way i like to get new stuff in my office, but i guess i'll have to accept it.

i've cut or chiseled a slot into it before and twisted it out with a flat screwdriver. you may need a crescent wrench or something over the screwdriver to get leverage though.