Blue Duece

hit up eric at elka he has them......

thats because the cheap bastards think they can get away with an 8 track in joe blows basment...tom schultz from boston is a great engineer and knows he needs good sounding gear to make his point.......right down to that killer lilting sound, you hear in the drummers kit, every time he goes to his ride cymbol your hearing a zildjin 24" ride same as bonam in led zepplin....its hard to make a dude beating the f*ck out of the side of an 18" crash cymbol sound like any thing other than noise.........the guy who engineered and produced supertramps "breakfast in america" is the same guy that produced plenty of shit with "Yes" the "Moody Blues", "Al Dimieola" "Stanley Clarke", Whittney Houston".....

after 20 years of 20 hours a day its a blast......

i own and operate a recording studio.....pretty much a overworked engineer

well jim most of the newer consoles are hybrid solid state boards, i find as you introduce more signal into the stereo buss they tend to garble, you have to consider 24 outboard devices all with stereo returns so theres 48 channels gone just bringing fx's back into the console, maybe 12 drum tracks a few bass upto 8 gtr tracks, keyboards, vocals, a typical mix you could be monitoring over 100 inputs all slammed into a solid state stereo buss, that introduces tons of noise into the air of the mix, U2's engineer and producer are not known for sonic purity.....there shitt is muddy.....i use the same consoles to attract my clients but since the console has 4 stereo busses and an 8 channel surround matrix, i take and strip the class "A" busses from older Neve consoles that dont have the bells and whistles of todays consoles and basicly customise the buss of the newer desk, you can slamm the buss with little to no destortion.....in my case ive been a drummer for 35 years, and well know the art of making a drum kit sound punchie and tight long before i mike them up, the drums and bass need to be clean and tight....i then ramp them up using again a class "A" compressor and put those in your face in the mix i also use a limiter so i can ramp the signal up with out clipping the main signal path, after that is easy to toss some vocals and other instruments into my mix...in my biz people choose you to track or mix there record cause they like your "sound"..people use my rooms for the same reason, they like what they can create using my studio...the best engineer in the world cant make a shitty console sound good, people used to say its all in whos spinning the knobs i find that to be untrue...i say your shit can only sound as good as the output of the console....some artist like U2 will go just set up some gear in a castle and try to mix there, therefore they thinks it sounds good but even the air in the room changes the sound...how much reverbaration is present in the room when you mix?..tuning a room is an art as well......i can take a mix from my studio to my car or home and say to my self yep thats how loud i had the bass or yeah thats the eq i used on the entire mix......so lots of things come into play before you hear it...when they were mixing it probally sounded good to them, then a mastering guy eqed and compressed it for compact disc.....and your listening to it in digital which is more brill than analog.......all kinda stuff factors in to make a record suck..........my tip is trash the U2 disc the bastards suck anyhow

make damm sure the ammo and gun are at oppisite sides of the truck, and the chambers empty.......i lock mine in a little gun case so the man knows full well im not ready to brandish it......you dont have to worry in cali if you do get pulled over most cops have there gun drawn, so he can blast you first....

Yeah, I don't see many people making glass out there by not having sparkys yeah i think he's out there to make sure drunk guys dont do stupid shit.......i know in cali they can give you a DUI on a bike or boat or any other rec vehicle....its like the "sqeaky wheel gets the grease" if your out sloshed doing stupid shit in front of the ranger....chances are you could get busted........but no worries, i think we can all show the other visitors to dumont some respect......i dont think any of us will be dragging through anyones camp or endangering others..and any of us that choose to just blow out into the desert wont even see a ranger......if evil and i make it id loved to go out and blow some stuff up with large caliber hand cannons......

yes, but sounds like you need to adjust the preload, by tightening the spring, it should only sag about 2 inches in front.......6 is a little much......

arnt the carrier bolts 17's with a 14 and 17mm nut......the skids a 12mm?.the only 10 back there is the outside chain adjust...........

yes you are fucked if your shocks arnt adjustable.........i have a valved rear and like it for open riding...you could set up your rear shock nicely........on a good set up quad, the fronts will take the obsticle and hand it to the rear shock, if the rear is real nice you can get by as i do with my works shocks and revalved rear, but to just pound it down a track, the fronts represent your stability, if they are flopping in the wind, your ass end will translate that into fishtailing and instability......those directions are for all shocks, a 2 wheeler or quad id doesnt matter...since there are obsticles in your path, shocks are most important for fast times on a track.....when we rec ride and things get rough we are so apt to just back out of it....but on the track when the gate drops its time to go and you are now commited, to completing so many laps, thats where you dont want your shocks fadeing, because then you will start to bounce down the track, you will build up pressure in the valving and the adjustments you made to a cool shock will no longer be there, it will build pressure, and bounce, then your bike doesnt respond as it did in the first 10 laps......the more horse power you have the better the shock you need...picture a indy car on the track hitting corners at 180 mph.......if the suspension doesnt keep the car planted it will, start to chatter(jump up and down) and the driver would loose control..a quad accelerating is no different.....

i think my elkas were around 950 for the front pair and 800 for the rear..the stock shock is not bad revalved and sprung....your height comes from the rear shock.....

your haveing the same problem as me huh jimbo?....its nice to be busy......

thats what ive found also, they realize sand has a pretty hot "ignition" point.....unlike riding up the hill by my house, where the fires were, they catch you with no sparky and the rangers having a bad day he will simply impound your bike.......i run the forestry approved stinger, he just see's the sticker on the stinger and doesnt mess with me.....

LMFAO......Wanna see a grown man cry.....A: kick him in the nuts or B: take away his shee.....

Thanks Stan, might as well help him setup whatever shocks he does choose........Setting the rebound: 1.) Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away. 2.) Find a jump that tends to launch the motorcycle out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the bike into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in) 3.) Find some large whoops. The bike should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (these rules don't apply for sand.) Setting the compression: 1.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out) 2.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension. Most racers prefer the double over the tripple since the shock body is short, if you have the gullwing style aarms you can run a longer shock and in that longer body the tripple works well, elka makes a longer dogbone for the rear of the shee that will give you the prefered ride height and let you run a longer spring, but will only make a tripple for the wider gullwing type arms, in my opinion the doubles keep me planted a little tighter to the track, i tried works tripples then went to the duals for my desert bike, since i dont race it, they seem to work ok, since when they load up i can simply back off the throttle and cruise, but when im diceing on a track with a guy with works shocks and we are side by side in a 12 foot wide lane, im lookin the f*ck out, cause i know as soon as he accelerates hard hes gonna veer like a son of a bitch, so if im in the outside slot(which i prefer) im gettin t-boned(again) whereas my elkas allow me to stay in my line, but some guys with works shocks tell me im full of shit, but there not racing either, to keep your quad pinned for any length of time on a track requires good suspension, unless your just so pumped, you can hang on no matter what, in which case your a bad mofo....and should be in the pro class on a bone stock shee......

are you going to send your whole motor?.......thats what i did.....i know it makes more work for jim, and costs a little more to ship, but damm he does a good job......

yer welcome Eve.....i started compileing and saving all this info like you have, so now i can just paste it up.....maybe my Mac will hold up better than your PC?......im a firm believer that if the wifes not happy all the chassis and suspension tips in the world wont help you, cause you aint goin riding........

Thats no shit, but he would have to be careful because there are some crucks out there. He I am going to have him build me a 12port stroker no questions asked. Its just the money issue, I am going to try my best to get it out to him by the end of the month. Buisness is picking up and money is starting to come a little faster if this fucking weather would warm up. It was 3 degrees today with a -8 wind facter. I be damned if I work outside in that shit. But anyway I have only had my shee for 3 months and have only been able to ride it for 1 month because the wife blew it up. Aint that a bitch? Buy a new bike and can't even ride the damn thing. i can only imagine how you feel.....i have 2 banshee's and while my motor was out being built i was jonesing for it big time, i dint even want to ride my other bike, jim only had it a week but with like 5 days shipping each way and then reassembly, i couldnt wait to get it back...........

i went ahead and corrected your typo for you.......

the dual rate with rates of 147/210 compare to the triple rate system which has rates of 133/171/260. the triple rate is 10% plusher for the first third of the wheel travel, and still over 20% stiffer than the dual rate for the last third of the wheel travel. Actually, if the triple rate starts out with a 133# per inch rate and finishes with a 260# per inch rate it has almost a 100% stiffer rate from beginning to end vs. the 45% dual rate change. This means that it will be super plush on the top part of wheel travel and even more resistant to bottoming out on the bottom bit of wheel travel. The shock is exactly the same valving, travel, spring set, etc. The only difference is the non reservoir (non rezzy) design has the oil and gas mixed together and the reservoir design (rezzy) keeps the oil and gas totally separate. The second purpose of the rezzys is to give the heat in the shock a "radiator" location to dissipate faster. This causes the shocks to run at a lower temperature and the oil will last longer and require less rebuilds than the non rezzy design. The third purpose is for slightly more oil capacity for additional heat absorption/radiation, The first purpose is to separate the oil and gas. A gas/oil emulsion shock operates with the oil mixed with thousands of tiny nitrogen gas bubbles floating about. So your valving piston has oil with "compressable" bubbles running through it and the reservoir design has undisturbed oil running through it. This leads to more consistent damping action especially for long MX or XC racing. The second purpose of the rezzys is to give the heat in the shock a "radiator" location to dissipate faster. This helps the shocks run at a lower temperature and the oil will last longer and require less rebuilds than non-rezzy design. The third purpose is for slightly more oil capacity for additional heat absorption/radiation. The reservoirs are by no means mandatory for high performance, rather they are definitely worth the money if you can swing it. For the very hard core racers, they are very important. the elka ssd's setup properly will give you a ride height of roughly 9 inches making your banshee a "slotcar"

jims port work is outstanding, my Trinity motor feels stock compared to my Passion engine....i couldnt recomend a better builder......

banch..you need a program like photoshop.......you just open the file then use the save for web function, the file needs to be under 50k....

they wont bother you for no sparky Stan.......unless you start giving them some shit then they will right you up for everything they can..pretty much like any cop would.......i know a few of the BLM guys, they are just forestry rangers, ive never had a problem with them.....

your stock ones should work on the exaust manifold

im with banchetta.....thats a fuel/air problem...your cdi either works or it dont.......if push starting it works its gettin spark, your just kinda forcing it to start...does it idle when it does run?