Blue Duece

according to elka i lost a whopping 5/8's of travel by haveing fully adjustable ssd's..but if youve ever tried crossing the desert at 75mph youll find rebound a must, racing mx on the california desert tracks its also a must, for high speed jumping its a must as soon as your bike starts leeping off the ground like a pogo stik over whoops and you have to back off, and wont adhere to corners at high speed, you start to really dig the 9" ride height and the rebound, and thats the shit that lets you hold the lead and sustain high speeds for long periods of time, if how and where you ride doesnt afford you the luxury of backing off through the ruff stuff you need fully adjustables, if you have the option of shutting down, get cheap works shocks cause you'll never miss the better shocks anyway.....

That is almost an untrue statement as the previous one in this thread. To address the first MORONIC statement, that is both hilarious, and very idiotic at the same time. I find it more funny than anything!!!!!! On this new statement, a "cool-head" may not make your bike run cooler. I have heard claims of up to 10% better cooling, but I have seen no proof. Do NOT get me wrong on this. I will be getting a NOSS head soon enough, but only because of the dome interchangeability of it. Not for any other reason. As a matter of fact, there are 3 reasons that aftermarket "cool head" is good. 1. For interchanging domes at a cheap price. 2. For being able to pull the head off and re-install it with the same o-rings. Essentialy, a re-useable head "gasket". 3. looks. That's about it folks. Now, I will say this to those that will jump in here and flame away on this. Go ahead and provide proof to me and the rest of the HQ that there is a cool head that makes the bike any more than 5-10% cooler. I doubt that there is even a gain in 10% or less. The head may be able to transfer heat slightly better than a stocker just due to the surface area exposed to outside air. Not the coolant flowing within, but just the physical area outside in the open. This is a possibility, but not a very good case. Now, Once again, I will re-iterate here. I am not against the cool-head. Just stating some other things here. Show me the proof that it runs cooler. I want it. PLEASE DON'T take this the wrong way folks. it is a discussion. Not a flame war. i have to agree with boon, i never noticed a large temp difference, but it is nice to change domes and not gaskets as well as they look nice.....

and on the impellor side of things if its a stock one look in your recovery bottle if you see little black stuff floating around, looks like some one poured pepper in your coolant thats a sure way to tell its shot, and on the aftermarket clutches most guys run 3 stock springs and 3 aftermarket, all 6 aftermarket springs and your left arm and wrist get pretty pumped.....

did he pm you and tell you he drag raced?

PEP just revalved works huh?? haha thats the stupidest thing ive ever heard. for awhile when they first started they used the same bodies that works do but now they switched. they were never works shocks there not far off.....a springy ride at best, lousey valving, great for a rec rider, kinda like works.......you can get long travel arms, the gullwing type then get a long travel tripple, you dont need the whole frame

amen....if you can hold the stock bike pinned then get more motor, if you cant.... suspension and chassis mods

it is 30...and the head torques to 20 foot pounds....do a compression check after you mill it depending on your elevation you could need at least half race fuel....

yeah i wouldnt touch her either......unless of course, i had all my gear on and i could roost on her pretty face, and she wasnt playing a kid rock CD, then id puke on her...

id go fmf over toomey..but thats just my opinion

skip the boost bottle and put that 24 bucks twards a stroker, you said money wasnt an issue, dump a couple grand into the motor and another 3 grand into shocks and chassis and you have a bike that goes fast and you'll be able to hang on to it......

well you are in the wrong forum......i use 927 also, it does smell nice but seperates in the cold, my builder likes me using it, i like NEO@100:1 no fould plugs nice starting, the 927 builds up nice and provides good protection or so ive heard, the neo is very low friction nasa uses NEO in there rockets to fight heat....some guys like amsoil....6 of one half dozen the other

thats bullshit........its the left side..... ...no whoever told you that is nuts

if your motor can pull it taller stuff offers the most acelleration....stocks 14 up front go with a 15

like with any motor that runs good there has to be some back pressure, id say pack them up tight and you will feel a pinch more bottom

yes terry you will need an idle kit.....but its an easy install and will get rid of all the tors crap making your carbs alot more trouble free......

thats just low gearing that doesnt mean it will hook, why not just gear it so it can accellarate....you wouldnt think geared that low you stop spinning till fourth trying to climb....you be better off letting a 15 stretch your gears a little and get some torque to the ground blue duece how does your hook up work compared to stock it says you have a 17/40 gearing i hook nice with my 17 but i also have close to 90 horse power, but i havent allways had this motor when my bike was just piped i still ran a 15, it really depends on the hills your climbing, the stuff i climb i might hit pinned in third and end up in first if im geared13/44 when i down shift and gas it id just dig in and end up digging a whole and standing still, theres a fine line between hooking and spinning ...my -2 swingarm helps me hook, but getting the power to the ground is the problem all large 2 cycles have, geared taller your more apt to hook, real low gearing just breaks the tires loose

an inch and a half both directions on a stock carrier

check out this throttle cable.....

thats just low gearing that doesnt mean it will hook, why not just gear it so it can accellarate....you wouldnt think geared that low you stop spinning till fourth trying to climb....you be better off letting a 15 stretch your gears a little and get some torque to the ground

thats so low it seems useless......your bike has to float through all its gears, a 14/44, would feel close to a 13/41....gearing it that low doesnt make more bottom, bottom comes from compression and horsepower, if i put my 17 up front against your 13 i would just walk past you like your standing still, youd climb a hill in fourth and id be in second acellerating and your bike would stop pulling at about 9000 rpms, whereas mine would be pulling so hard it would break my arms, by floating i mean it stops pulling, and geared that low your sacrificeing all your traction even in sand......if you took a ten speed bicycle and put the front sprocket on its smallest and the back on its tallest, and then made the front spocket even smaller all youd really be doing is pedeling your ass off and going nowhere......try climbing a hill on your shee with a 12 up front then try it with a 15, come back and post what the diff is.....

hit it pinned in sixth, then down shift as needed

about a third less than stock.....if say you could burn a full tank in 3 hours, now it will take you 2......maybe 2.5, depends on how hard your on it....

i like the stocker as long as im running a stock cut swing arm, your stock swing arm will twist before the lsr axle bends and will tweak the swing arm to frame mount on a stock frame if you take a big enough hit, at 50 bucks for a stock axle and with offset ITP's you should be cool on the width, and you can bend the stocker and be back in biz fairly quick........ the chrome LSR is a nice trinket though.....same with a-arms if your going to pound a stock framed bansh its cheaper to run the softer parts....your bike tracks like shit when the frames tweaked

i think it depends on your bike, if i run a 15/41 and shoot the gate in second ill loop my bike, on a stock bansh with pipes ive found a 15/41 to roll on decent with 20's, the less spin, the more accelereation, snapping the tires loose with a 14 in second seems like it would slow you down and youd be shifting plenty, unless like i said your motors just piped, in which case yer getting smoked anyway, unless youve got an ass kickin chassis thats gonna let your real everybody in over the rough stuff.......

thats cool you live in new york, where i live theres 400 miles of open riding in all directions, go west or north and you can cross the state without seeing pavement, when the cops around here have to break away from busting dope rings with speed labs buried in the desert they get pissed and will beat your ass just for fun, a quad aint a fast bike to be chased on, try out running a guy who grew up on the trail your trying to get away from him on and hes on a two wheeler and his buddys waiting at the other end of it, city cops are a joke, id out run any of them on foot if all they have is cars and beer bellys, you put six or seven cops on dirt bikes patroling an area, your better off on pavment....