Blue Duece

Jims building me a 370- 4mm also, should really haul ass, im going to use it for MX over my trinity port, from what it sounds like my trinity port will feel stock compaired to jims work......proquad hows your bike geared?.....hows it idle?..what size carbs did jim use..he's going 33 or 34's on mine, i cant wait to get it back, should have close to 80 hp....

she sounds like my kinda girl, specialy if she does the latter of those two first......hell thats what dreams are made of, if she's really hot ill be deathie's new daddy.....

no the comment was right on check, it was a mouthful to say, and im no typest, i forgot to metion tire size, you can go that route for hieght, i run 21's up front, sometimes 20's and 20's or 18's in the rear and i think yes you can use the same set up for sand...ride height is not as important in sand, but for mx and flat track type racing the lower the better.. I myself would just crank my compression and rebound and go for it....and i think lowering the bike in any situation works well although i only ride MX and desert, i do go to glamis and dumont and of course we all ride trails, but asphalt and sand or street drags are not my forte, but i asume i could come up with something decent for my bike in that application as the principals of shocks and terrain dont change providing your running progressive springs over non-progressive......

damm isnt that the truth rocket...when banchetta mentioned in his post i lost him, i was politely trying to hint on that, with my ramp comment, i think you really need to pratcice how you drop the bike onto the landing surface, good timing does make it seem like you just went off the curb, i dont think any shock will allow you to just drop your bike at 2 mph from 8 feet, one needs to learn to launch on the pipe and land correctly....great comment Rocket

in sand you need mostly compression, id set my rebound and compression in the 3/4 position probally 15 clicks in front and rear, and those adjustments for mx are for front and rear, if your running stock fronts your only option is to relax them all the way out, they will bottom at the same point, by stiffening a spring all your doing is affecting the top of its travel making all the slow stuff suck and fuckin your cornering abilitys, rigid frames corner like shit they buck and fight the enersha, sand is different because it's not jagged like dirt is, bumps are not as consistant, but your rear squat is important for hook, a rigid rear end doesnt hook for shit, and the lower your bike is the less apt it is to tip or "high side", regardless of terrain, when you drop your bike off a dune you want it to compress slow and rebound slow so it doesnt pitch you off the bike, most times when landing your on the pipe so a slower rebound helps it hook back up.........

hey 66 how do you like all those rocks at bell? if your ever in the mood, when you get to the top of the pass on your way to stoddard wells road, jump off at main street go right all the way down till you see lake hesperia instead of turning left into the lake make a right it will be a dirt road go on back 1/2 mile or so park and unload, thats the north side of honda valley goes all the way to lucerne/big bear or you could ride all the way to mount baldy, lots of good riding there and lots closer......see ya out there sometime

if you go with the thumper, get the Honda there 450 motor specs out better than the yami, and if your getting off the two cycle tip, fuck it, might as well get a Honda.....

sounds like your rear spring is the wrong gage if its the stock rear spring, youll need a stiffer spring, on the fronts call elka and tell eric your front shocks bottom, he will send you stiffer springs, cranking the preload just raises ride height (elka recomends 9 inches) rebound and compression have nothing to do with what your describing nor does the preload, to use the stock rear shock with the stock spring youd have to cut 2 full coils from the spring to get a 9" ride height but what you really want is a stiffer spring to maintain the travel you need....what bottoms the fronts? the rear or both? it would take one hell of a shock 2 drop a banshee off a 8 foot roof at 2 mph and not have it bottom, if you set the bike up that way it would be useless in every other situation but a real slow drop, theres a sweet spot where it shouldnt bottom and still soak up the terrain your in..ive jumped 70 footers ramp to ramp and landed like i was going over the curb, and have my bike squat on the gas real nice , soak up every hit on the track, you set your shocks up for A: traction and B: the fast whoops on a track...jumping requires timing.if you set your bike up so u can drop it off your roof without bottoming, it will suck on all terrains, i like to go for a great track setup, then when i jump i time myself from launch to landing, when i set it down on a long heuvos type crazy jump im 1 foot off the ground when i land, even if i have to slam on my brakes in the air to dump me down on the ramp, i have a ramp i built that i can put 5 feet from a down hill and just start hitting it.... then scooting it back, before you know it ive pulled it back 70 feet from the down hill....practice...... practice....... practice......

welcome to the HQ Checkster....i think a better shock will solve your problem, and in my opnion you need the rebound adjustment more than the rezzie in a elka anyway, for mx i like to have control of how fast the shock rises more so than compresses if i had to pick id take a rebound adjustment over compression although they all have compression adjustments the more expensive body has both, elkas dont fade easy so you can get by without the rezzie, the spring gage is your key to not bottoming out, the shock body only controls what the spring is doing, id go straight to elka the middle man will only foul up your order, when i purchased my Full Race SSD"S, Eric was picking my brain about track conditions, my weight and so on, well i mentioned i freestyle jump on this bike also so when i mounted my new shocks the fronts were just perfect but the rear just chattered down the track the ass end of my bike was stiff as hell, i called Eric and told him what was going on so he apoligezed and overnighted me the next gage down in a secondary spring, free of charge, i swapped springs and now the rear couldnt be better, eric also mentioned he would service my elkas at a great price. although our local sponser will recharge them for us, Eric knows the valving better than most and can taylor your shocks for more or less compression and rebound via the valving....i think there is something to be said for going straight to the source.........

Great description Mike........

ummm because you drink from sun up to sun up?, youre a fuckin alkie and you drink for a living and are just at lunch riding your quad? who knows guy.....out at the dunes you see it all......

id tend to say yeah ya can just start it out rich, and there right you want it to ceat real nice

id go with the noss also a 20cc dome would keep you safe on pump gas where ever you ride for a motor mod you'll notice it as much as a pipe

a few bottles of liquid balls does relax a fella, a buddy and myself were playing out in dumont when we happened on one of those drink from sun up to sun down kinda guys, fucker fell asleep or passed out while riding his quad and crashed it was one of the funnest things i think i ever saw, he kinda just fell off his bike........

it jumps real nice scott, on long jumps the bike doesnt dive forward it pretty much stays at the level you left the ramp on, providing your front ends pushed forward with a-arms, i still dont see how you hook at all unless your using 4th 5th and 6th to my 2cnd 3rd and 4th, i practice to a clock and the lower gears just spin me around the track even with a -2,and i loose time fast, i have another shee with a stock arm 15/41 and its a wild ride on the track, i cant see running a twelve, but if your placeing with it i say Go for it........

if anything it would be a kayaba shock.....i parted with my Ohlins for the Elka SSD's,i think the stocker is passable cause the body has compression and rebound adjustments that can be revalved, but a weak spring and the stock rezzie is a bit small, not to good for the track you can just feel it fade, and you cant get a decent ride height out of it, it will also bottom easy, but resprung isnt bad and done up right is not to bad for open riding.......but thats just my opnion

i run a -2, with full race Elkas with a ride height of 9"s, geared either 16/41 or 15/41, and i race in the Southern California outdoor tracks, we race open expert, that means your point standing doesnt keep you off the track, if i ran a stock swing arm and a 12 up front id get seriously smoked, from anything from a new duncan 450 to a 400 ex, if i do ever hit the expert class ill go to the new 450, on the tracks if im riding a stock arm and a twelve up front...... i just dont see any hook with that setup...but your terrain may be different than what im in...

damm scott where are you riding were a 12 up front works? whats the length of your swing arm?

search the internet..ask jeeves....something along those lines will tell you

Noss makes a good 1.....20cc's would be safe on pump fuel about any where youd ride....or you could mill a stocker

was it free?.......Jim Pmed me with the info thanks.....

aint that the truth Reas, Boon and I tried to give him a honest answer to that age old question "How fast does my bike go"

was it free?.......

climb these nuts

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