jmd0346

Sounds like too much slack in the cable. I cant quite remember how they go together on the OKO's but thats what its sounds like.

Did it settle down or stayed that way? Did you ride it anymore after that? Give us some more details man!

I went with the Pro design one myself. Its a really nice piece. I think the RS one is cast aluminum. I like the fact the PD one is a billet. Casts can be off here and there. CNC billet parts wont be. Im not to keen on RS either.

I just remembered you said you had tried a new coil. Man you arent getting power to the coil. Somehting isnt hooked up right or the stator is bad. Could be the FW. You said you had some work done to it. What?

What about the rerading at the plug boot? Where the plug connects to the end of the plug wire. Forget about the orange wire for now. Put your hand on the end of the plug and kick it. I know it sounds bad but that is the easiest way to tell if its getting any fire or just weak fire.

I already have it welded and trued. Im gonna run 100L. So I hope that will handle 175+/- psi with about 5-6 degrees timing. I may stick with +4. See how that does and go from there. I dont want to go too high on the comp and sacrifice top end power/rpm. I think 175 or so would be a good median. Thanks for your opinion Josh. Just what Im looking for. Anyone else?

Damn man I dont know. You say everything is getting power yet it wont fire. It just doesnt add up. You have to be reading something wrong with that meter. Stick the meter proble in the plug boot and ground the other and see what it reads. If it reads what youve been seeing on the other parts then you arent doing somehting right.

Like I said I dont know what your knowledge is but if you dont know exactly how to use a multimeter you are waisting your time. You arent making power. Its that simple. Is the stator black wire grounded? Going by your little picture it doesnt look like it is. If not. Thats the problem.

Are you sure the black wire coming off the stator is grounded?

You arent getting power from the stator then.

Never once asked for a "Magic" number. Just what people felt was optimal based on their experience. I didnt think it was that hard of a question. It simply asks for opinions. Thanks for your opinion. You run exactly what I felt would be optimal. Maybe a little more timing. Im at or near sea level.

If its the same oil as you run in your gear box then you have a problem. If its pre-mix oil then that is good.

Then change coils. Or have you done that? Like I said its a coil problem. Atleast the way you make it sound. If its geeting power but not discharging it to the wires its bad. You said you have another bike. Snatch that coil off.

I already suggested that. Heck Ive put it in my hand before and kicked it. LOL Its hard to do but Ill tell ya what. You know if its firing or not. LOL Sometimes its hard to see but you can feel it.

Ground that r/b wire. I dont know your knowledge so its hard to say. You cant be getting power from the stator to the coil and it not fire. Unless the coil wires or plugs are bad. I dont think you are reading that thing right. The coil may be conducting like it should with the tester but that doesnt mean its getting power form the stator.

Sounds like the coil may be bad. If you have power to the orange wire thats one thing but do you have power to the plug boot? Put the plug in and ground to the pipe or frame and kick it. See what you have. Have you tried the R/B wire closed? Its been a few months since I re-wired mine so its not fresh in my head. I did the same as you. I took everything out that doesnt make it run and cut off. LOL

I want to say its Sonoco 100leaded. Not sure on the R+M/2 factor. Ill haver to check on that. My main question is what is optimum for a ported engine? Compression and timing wise. Ill run whatever octane is required. I just want to know what is the best comp/timing to run? Then Ill figure out required octane, squish etc... I just want to optimize my current setup. I feel like Im leaving alot on the table with 145-150 psi comp and 4 degrees timing on pump.

Is it a degree key or stock? Never heard of a stock key breaking. Its almost impossible to get it in there wrong. The tolerances are pretty tight.

Oh yeah im with you on that. Im not running anymore compression on pump. Im gonna go with 100 leaded. Im just trying to get an idea of what the optimum compression would be on 100 octane. Im thinking about 175 psi with 6 degrees timing on 100 octane. What do you guys that know think?

Any answers from the sunday crew?

Well that sounds backwards to me but I get the concept. What would you do If squish is a problem? I use a stock base gasket. Stock height jugs. The only think that could be wrong are the domes. I guess its possible but doesnt seem likely. Im gonna check the squish tomorrow fo sho. Do you have any opinions on any of my questions in my first post? What is the down side to too loose of a squish? Other than obviously lowering compression. My point being. Lets say my squish is loose. I wouldnt want to take my engine apart to change base gaskets or whatever when i could just put in a smaller dome.

Yeah i know how to do it. Just think it necessary with a basially stock setup. Ill give it a go. Too much squish would give me a higher reading on compression. Anyone else that can answer my questions? Ill figure it all out own my own like i always do. i just thought some opinions from others would be nice. TIA.

Well its always read this compression with this setup. It is ported pretty aggresivly so I assumed that accounts for the compression. I just rebuilt it early last year. I use a stock base gasket and have a Vito Hemi head with o-ring gasket on top. I also use vitos domes. Unless his domes are wrong i dont see what the problem could be. I thought you only needed special cut domes when doing different thickness base gaskets or different length rods etc...? Are you saying one should check squish even on a basic setup? If so that will be my next thing to do. It could be my guage too. Its just a AZ special. Aslo I would think if I were really at that high compression I would have detonation issues with the 93 pump Im running.

Unless you ride in mud/wet conditions alot I would 86 the airbox. Get some clamp-ons,a set of pipes, adjustable timing plate, a cool head with 20-21 cc domes, jet accordingly. A high flow water impeller and big radiator wouldnt hurt.

Hey Fellas. Ive been thinking of bumping up my compression for a while now. Just not sure what the optimum psi would be for my setup. I have what I think is akin to a dune port. Its not a drag port but its more than a trail/play port. It was called a stage 2 by the company/guy that did it. Eric Happy @ 4wheel thunder. Stage 3 was full on drag port. I run 19cc domes with around 145 psi compression. +4 timing. 93 octane. My questions are: 1. What is a good balance compression wise for good bottom end and still have good top end power? 2. What octane is required for said compression? 3. What timing would be recommended? I run +4 now. 4. I can get 100 octane leaded race gas. Is leaded ok? If so keep this in mind when giving your answers. Thanks guys, Michael