bombedbanshee06 Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 hi guy im rebuilding my topend in the next day or so if anyones got tips to make it last longer then it did before please post up cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheeblue01 Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 hi guy im rebuilding my topend in the next day or so if anyones got tips to make it last longer then it did before please post up cheers Ian Check and make sure that there isnt any slop in the crank/rods.. Take a ball hone and put a good cross hatch in the cylinders.. Shopvac out all of the coolant before pulling the head.. Turn it over half a dozen times before you fire it up for the first time and I would mix the gas a lil on the rich side for the first tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riderofthestorm Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 i always coat the cylinders with a little engine oil b4 sliding them on the pistons? anyone else do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fitz18 Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 i always coat the cylinders with a little engine oil b4 sliding them on the pistons? anyone else do this? Yeah i did this. Make sure your cylinders are completely cleaned out after any honing is done. New gaskets Id go with wiseco pistons as well. Take care getting the wrist pin out so the wee spring lads at the ends dont fall into ur cases or ul have trouble. Search for big red case splitting on here. Its a great link with pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Shopvac out all of the coolant before pulling the head.. Or just pull the cylinder drain plug out of each cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireroad Express Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 i think big red's pics are down(too bad ) there are other rebuild pics on this site- www..dunereview.com. this is a great guide for anyone rebuilding a shee engine. good luck bro ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98 shee devil Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 i always coat the cylinders with a little engine oil b4 sliding them on the pistons? anyone else do this? yes i use alot of oil too so dnt be afraid. also run the gas rick on oil and turn it over a bunch of times befor the act. start...i ride mine for a little while then change the oil too after...also try not to hit powerband. my friend slittle bro had a yz85 and this kid broke it in so goooooood he'd never hit power band for like a week or two of riding every day all day...then he changed the oil and rode that bike like it was meant to be riddin and ohh shit it was well worth it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 Please don't run more oil in your gas than you plan to run on a normal basis... The rings need to seat...that is the most critical part of breaking a two stroke in. Make sure it is fully warmed up before blasting around on it. My advice...heat cycle it twice. recheck the base and head nuts for torque.... Take it for a quick ride, after being fully warmed up....shift through the gears, try not to stay at a set RPM too long....let it cool down. Go beat the piss out of it. I use a thin, THIN coat of two stroke oil in the cylinders when putting them on ONLY to help assemble the pistons/squeezing the rings into the cylinder.... There is no need to go overboard by slathering it with oil or mixing too much in for the "first tank" of gas... I've broken in all my bikes this way, from old to new, cast iron sleeves to nikasil, pump gas, race fuel or methanol..... Hit the power band, it doesn't matter if you change the oil or not because it's in the transmission and has NOTHING to do with breaking the top end of the motor in. that's not to say you shouldn't change tranny fluid on a regular basis due to metal shavings and tiny clutch particles that get in the fluid with use, but it has nothing to do with breaking a top end in.... Also...keep in mind your jetting will slightly change with more/less gas in the oil. People that add more oil to their gas thinking that they're doing their motor a favor really aren't.... More oil per gas leans out your jetting. think about it... Gas with more oil will flow through jets at a slower rate than with less oil in it... I rode with people that never rejetted for winter riding, they just put "more oil in the gas" to be safe, yet they blew up motors every year in the cold.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase@miamiatv.com Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 take ure time and get a clymer if your not sure with something. Check jetting once fully running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black dallas Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 i just completed the first rebuild of the top end on my banshee for the first time. i used my clymer religously. the way i did it was a cylinder at a time. i done the inside nuts on the first cylinder while the other head was off. it seemed to be easier to get too that way. take your time. i didnt run into any probs at all and i had never done it before. it did take me about 6 or seven hours to do it. but like i said i took my time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bombedbanshee06 Posted January 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 Thanks everyone for the help .This is the 2nd time on the rebuild i seized it about 15hrs ,i I took of the lids and leaned it out so yer shit happens. Cylinders have beens bored and honed out and new wisecos to go in (64.50)so it should be together tomorrow for a late ride down the pipes with me mates . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheeblue01 Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 Or just pull the cylinder drain plug out of each cylinder Where the fuck are these cylinder drains? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireroad Express Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 the bolts on the sides of the cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheeblue01 Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 the bolts on the sides of the cylinders. How and the fuck have I missed these? O well, shit happens i guess.. I bet my shopvac way leaves less mess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 11, 2008 Report Share Posted January 11, 2008 Yeah, I normally just pull the bottom hose and blow air through the system...... There simply is no easy way to drain the coolant without making a mess... On stock cylinders, there's the 10mm bolt as said, and a copper sealing washer under it. Make sure it's in A OK shape!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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