black dallas

yes what he said /\

not sure but while the hq was down i had that problem and did a search of yfz central and somebody suggested it so i tried it and it worked. cooool

TRU DAT TRU DAT!!! these guys here talked me into doing it myself and i not only did i do it right the first time, it actually ran and knock on wood i havent had a problem since. as one guy told me, "take the extra money you save by doing it yourself and go spend it on strippers!!!"good luck

switch it to reserve and try it! worked for me when one of my cylinders wasnt running

i rode a predator the other day that i believe is stock. the thing would really run. i didnt like the ride at all. i couldnt keep my big ass on top of it. it was really squirly. but i was really impressed with the speed and torque. that sumbitch would run

take something and beat on the gas tank about midway down it. wack it pretty good but dont knock a hole in it. my truck did that and it was the fuel pump. if it rus for alittle bit after hitting the tank there yougo... fuel pump. $250 bucks and about three hours to change it. have fun idid

when you say muenster do you mean bulcher? thanks

im sure you tried it but when i got done with my topend i kicked on it about 25 times with nothing. i was bummed. then i opened the throttle all the way and kicked once and it fired. next kick it started and hasnt missed a beat since. hope this helps

sweet

when i done my top end it wouldnt start on the first twenty kicks or so then i opened the throttle all the way and kicked once and fired. not necessarily tried to start but it did fire. the next kick it started up and idled and i have not had a prob with it. when ii rebuilt the engine i took off the carbs and tors and cleaned the carbs and put it all back together. similar to what you done. im sure you tried that (opened throttle all the way) but thats what it took mine to even get it to even attempt to fire. hope this helps added note: maybe i should read the whole post before i post. lol

i just completed the first rebuild of the top end on my banshee for the first time. i used my clymer religously. the way i did it was a cylinder at a time. i done the inside nuts on the first cylinder while the other head was off. it seemed to be easier to get too that way. take your time. i didnt run into any probs at all and i had never done it before. it did take me about 6 or seven hours to do it. but like i said i took my time.

just wanted to update yall. i put my own topend in today. my very first one. no problems really at all. getting the rings to compress and go into the cylinder while the rings were in the right spot. ugh!!. but i done it. warmed it up twice with a complete cool down in between. it took me abot 7 hrs. i took my time . the only thing i notice is when i touch the throttle and i mean just barely touch it i wants to cut out and die. if i throttle it fast it seems to do ok. i did notice a little bit of missing i guess you would call it when i revved it up and held it. i prob never got over 2500 or 3000 rpms. any way thanks for the input guys

well guys i just got my clymer in. i assume it is mandatory to follow the break in procedures when i get my top end finshed right? this whole project should be interesting.thanks for the help

ok fellers, this is whats going on. i went and got my shee this morning and it was in pieces at the repair shop. well the mechanic had the top off the motor, pipes off, nuts and bolts in a box. and the heads in a box. SURE HOPE ALL THE PARTS ARE THERE!!! emailed jeff at f.a.s.t. last night and sent him the heads this afternoon. so the good thing was that it was already torn down. my question or worry is with the mtor setting open like that how do i know or how do i make sure nothing got down in the motor. i loaded it up in my truck and stuffed a couple of rags down in the cylinders for the ride home. put it in my brothers shop and now i wait for jeff and his magic. we got good tools so thats not a problem and i feel that with yalls previous support and future also i can do this install. i believe that everything included , honing and pistons gaskets and such is going to run me less than $300 through jeff. $300 ... $825 . thanks guys

thanks chase for the offer. i followed bigred on the tear down. i guess the put back together should be easy enough. i also assume the clymer will tell me how tight to tighten everything. so i need to be sure on a few things. no one has clarified if i need to tear down first the get it honed and then buy the kit or buy the kit then have it honed. i would think i need to have it honed then i would knw what size pistons to get. right? also do i need gasket sealer? ill need oil and antifreeze . i kinda need to know ahead of time casue the nearest dealer is 40 miles away. thanks again guys i think i can handle it plus my brother has done a few before in the past and he has a big metal shop to do it in. better than my tailgate.

ok guys it sounds like one guy says get the head honed first then buy the kit then another sounds like he said get the kit and take it with you to get the head honed so which is it.i appreciate the time guys

lets start with ... "whats a clymer?" scratch that googled it. any suggestions on a topend kit.if i need it honed where to send it? also how do i know if it needs to be honed? i can get a clymer off of ebay so thats covered. thanks guys and especially you chase for all your wittiness. lol later

again excuse me for not being a banshee mechanic. ive never worked on 4-wheelers before. i believe i also said that i thought it was a little high. give a guy a break here. just thought it was a little high

thats what the repair shop said they were gonna charge me to put a new top end in. sounds a little high to me. im not sure what all they are gonna have to do. ill find out more tomorrow

for the record this is my first compression test. this was done on a cold motor. i did not hold the throttle open at all. i will try that and give yall the results. also the tester i have is a snap on. its old but after all it is a snap on.

well i checked the compression to the best of my ability. it checked at about 90 lbs on each cylinder. i had to kick several times to get it to this reading. is that normal? sorry guys first time ive ever done this. the plugs were dark and oily looking so i changed them. my foot is sore. later

hey guys and gals? just got a 2004 banshee. as far as mods its has trinity stage IV pipes, super sports front and back. k and n filter. i cant hardly kick start this thing. after it runs for a while it kicks very easily. i took the gas line off and gas came right out. checked the air screws and one guy on here said they needed to 1 and 1/2 to 2 turns from lightly seated. they were about 1/2 to 3/4 so i loosened them up to where he said. by the way they are very loose. plugs look good . got some new ones coming. gascap line and cap is free of blockage. took the air filter out and pushed in the throttle and the left side carb is a hair quicker than the right side carb flap. it is a very small difference. when i pull out the chokeall the way it goes back in about a 1/4 inch most of the time. lol ive had the wife pull me on the lawnmower to get it started. it will kinda bog a little then itll start running. im to fat to kick on this thing. but after 40 to 50 times i cant feel my legs anymore. thanks for any help