shanYE west Posted November 14, 2007 Report Posted November 14, 2007 You guys ever hear of hydrolocking a motor? I've worked on a few sleds that came through the shop.. It wasn't fun by anymeans... Quote
J-Madd Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 Yeah...Take the pipes off, tip the bike on it's front end and remove the spark plugs, kick it over and get that oil out. You guys ever hear of hydrolocking a motor? I realize it'll burn...it could also pop a crank seal, etc... Get that shit out. We all make mistakes, just tip it up an kick the bike over without plugs for a few minutes to try and get as much of you can out of there.... Good call. I've never experienced or seen hydrolocking, and forgot about that possibility. Quote
BIGONTS Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Posted November 15, 2007 So if I take the pipes of and tip if forward with each piston up it will come out? does the piston go that high? It was idling for about 5 min. I hope nothing happened. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 taking the pipes off shouldnt matter. the piston dosent go up that much. :shrug: Quote
HotCarl Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 WOW The fact that is not a premix oil would worry me. If it were me I would take the motor out and pour it out of the intakes. If you just go and do it you'll be done before anyone else gets a chance to laugh at you. Quote
inthemail Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 not with each piston up, you have to sit on it all crooked tipped on its nose and kick it over for a while, you ever recover and start a sunk 4x4 right quick?? no plugs or pipe just crank on er for a while with the choke ON and gas OFF. put your hand over the exhaust exit and sorta seal it a bit if you like itll blow out..... most of it..... This is of course the slack alternative to dismantiling your engine again and mopping your crankcase. Id go with mopping... Quote
bentvalve Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 yeah, i would just take the time to tear it down again. it does not take that long and you will be protecting your motor.once its apart you can those new domes off.lol don Quote
KaosBanshee44 Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 ok first off your a tard for putting 10w30 in there, you dont need to put anything how ever on new cranks its not a bad idea to pour a little PREMIX oil on the bearings for the rods. do your self and that motor a favor and take it aprat and drain it out and flush it. that oil is not ment to be burnt up like premix. your going to make huge deposits of carbon and probly shorten the life of the motor by being lazy. open her up and fix it and just be done with it. Definitly the first person i have heard putting 10w30 for lube. I would take Banshemans advice and do it right now so you don't screw anything up. Buddy has had his jugs off for months and haven't seen one spec of rust or anything. sorry bro but i have to shoot you down on this... burning oil makes carbon build up 100 times faster then gas ever will. there are more minerals and junk inside of the oil that wont fully burn off. I will back you up on this one to man i work in a chemical laboratory and ASTM method 4530 The Determination of Carbon Residue (micro method) This test method covers the determination of the amount of carbon residue formed after evaporation and pyrolysis of petroleum materials under certain conditions and is inteded to provide some indication of the relative coke forming tendency of such materials. This method is ran on only fuel oils for example your 10w30. We don't run gasoline on this test method because THERE IS NO CARBON RESIDUE in gasoline unless you run it 500 times in the same vial. Quote
J-Madd Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 Definitly the first person i have heard putting 10w30 for lube. I would take Banshemans advice and do it right now so you don't screw anything up. Buddy has had his jugs off for months and haven't seen one spec of rust or anything.I will back you up on this one to man i work in a chemical laboratory and ASTM method 4530 The Determination of Carbon Residue (micro method) This test method covers the determination of the amount of carbon residue formed after evaporation and pyrolysis of petroleum materials under certain conditions and is inteded to provide some indication of the relative coke forming tendency of such materials. This method is ran on only fuel oils for example your 10w30. We don't run gasoline on this test method because THERE IS NO CARBON RESIDUE in gasoline unless you run it 500 times in the same vial. I don't want to get this off track, but is "evaporation and pyrolisis" (breaking chemical bonds by heat?) combustion? In (inefficient) combustion there is ALWAYS carbon residue (black crap on the piston). By ineffecient, I mean the ratio of 02 to gas is not perfect. The "perfect" combution of 02 and gas would probably be (x # of moles) CH3CH2......(I won't pretend to know the chemical structure of gasoline)....... + (y # of moles)O2 = CO2 + H2O. If I'm wrong about the rusty knowledge of organic chemistry, someone could probably point that out. But bottom line, every motor I have tore apart (4-stroke or 2-stroke) had lots of carbon on the piston and head. Granted I run mine a little rich. Good argument!! :beer: I like trying to remember long lost knowledge to support what I think I know. I hope to learn something here. :biggrin: Quote
BellicoseBanshee Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 This test method covers the determination of the amount of carbon residue formed after evaporation and pyrolysis of petroleum materials under certain conditions and is inteded to provide some indication of the relative coke forming tendency of such materials. I always hated it when the augmentor fuel control on some Pratt & Whitney engines coked... :mad: Quote
krazy jake Posted November 15, 2007 Report Posted November 15, 2007 My dad did the same thing when we rebuilt the top end!!! he thought it would run through and then wede just drain it!! :beer: gyah it smoked like a bish and fouled plugs like a mofo!! It still RAN though! ... well it doesnt anymore though..... Quote
. Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 know how long it will take to burn off a quart of 10w30 thats sitting in the bottom end? Only time its burning off is whats getting slopped up to be burnt off. It's not already atomized in the gas. Tear it apart and mop it up......its really the only right way to do it. Quote
dajogejr Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 If you have the time, I wouldn't go so far as to split the cases...no need. I would pull the top end off ...tip it out. Then use some premix oil/gas to flush it out... When I smoked a piston recently, I pulled the top end off, poured premix oil and gas into each side, spun the crank by hand, then tipped it out...4 or 5 times. Put 60 to 80 passes on it since, NO issues....and that was with aluminum from the piston crown down there... I think splitting the cases is excessive for just oil. But flushing it is a good idea.... Quote
BLUE STREAK Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 I am just trying to picture this in my head. So what exactly lubes the baring in between the con rod and crank. Air fuel mixture ? and what lubes the baring between crank and the case. Tranny oil ? or air fuel mix???????? sorry about the new guy question but that's why i am hear is to learn. thanks later Quote
dajogejr Posted November 16, 2007 Report Posted November 16, 2007 I am just trying to picture this in my head. So what exactly lubes the baring in between the con rod and crank. and what lubes the baring between crank and the case. Premix and gas...hopefully not air... the crankcase is sealed off from the tranny...the only thing the gear oil lubes is the gears and clutch. Quote
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