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Splitting the Cases


BigRed350x

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I second that !!!! :biggrin:

 

 

a big thanks to BIGRED for this how to post and documentation. im in tear down process for the first time and this makes things a great deal easier to deal with. thanks!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
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also you can leave the clutch fibers and steels in and press them with your thumb pretty hard so they dont slip and hit the basket nut and crank nut with an impact.. that will break them loose without having to worry about bending a rod with the extension through it..

 

 

I wish i would have seen your post On this before i followed the thread B..Ended up basically ruining a hot rods crank due to the 1/2'' drive extension through the rods..It's not a big deal to me as i was upgradeing to 4mill, but it was still a $200 smack to the wallet..Anybody else thinking of following this thread for the bottom end tear down be cautious about that particular step :mad: ..

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I wish i would have seen your post On this before i followed the thread B..Ended up basically ruining a hot rods crank due to the 1/2'' drive extension through the rods..It's not a big deal to me as i was upgradeing to 4mill, but it was still a $200 smack to the wallet..Anybody else thinking of following this thread for the bottom end tear down be cautious about that particular step :mad: ..

 

Sounds like a flawed crank to me. I've done it on lots of stock cranks and aftermarket ones with no problems at all. That or whoever did it before you didn't follow the proper torque specs and over-tightened something. :shoothead: Done that same exact thing with about 5 hotrods cranks with no problem at all.

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I really can't speak for the torque that was on it as it was the first time i have ever broke into the bottom end and my intentions were to use your thread as a guide..As far as as the crank being flawed that isn't a issue.. that motor has been ran long enough to prove the crank isn't flawed..I called my builder when the top of the rod cracked..My builder basically said that it is not safe to do it that way and my new paper weight was proof..To loosely quote it went something liek "Doing it with the extension forces the rods fight aginst each other trying to rotate..The best way to do it is put the rod closest to the clutch to TDC..From there grab the bottom of the rod with your hand and make a fist where you hand is hitting the cases and preventing that rod from moving"..Anyways i decided to not follow the thread further and took the bottom end to the local shop and there was more devistation then i had at first realized..Turns out not only was there a crack in the top of the rod loop but both rods were bent..I'm not trying to talk trash about your thread red, I'm sure it took alot of time to do it but i figured i would say something though for those doing the walk through with a crank they have to have..basically the above quote is the safer way reguardless of wether or not the step has worked for you 5 or 6 times..

 

letha

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sorry to hear that bro ...what a shame to ruin a sweet wiseco crank. i highly doubt there was any flaw as they are built pretty tough,.... I hope no one else gets shade tree tinkeritis and starts running extensions through their rods and beating on sensitive parts ,this is not the proper way to do this despite reds best intentions even though he invented the duneable override ,the internet and the laser disc . sometimes reading a manual is the best route as in this case .I think this thread should definitly be edited and while hes at it.. theres a few added unneccasary steps too that are a waste as well . :beer:

Edited by rocketboy
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I really can't speak for the torque that was on it as it was the first time i have ever broke into the bottom end and my intentions were to use your thread as a guide..As far as as the crank being flawed that isn't a issue.. that motor has been ran long enough to prove the crank isn't flawed..I called my builder when the top of the rod cracked..My builder basically said that it is not safe to do it that way and my new paper weight was proof..To loosely quote it went something liek "Doing it with the extension forces the rods fight aginst each other trying to rotate..The best way to do it is put the rod closest to the clutch to TDC..From there grab the bottom of the rod with your hand and make a fist where you hand is hitting the cases and preventing that rod from moving"..Anyways i decided to not follow the thread further and took the bottom end to the local shop and there was more devistation then i had at first realized..Turns out not only was there a crack in the top of the rod loop but both rods were bent..I'm not trying to talk trash about your thread red, I'm sure it took alot of time to do it but i figured i would say something though for those doing the walk through with a crank they have to have..basically the above quote is the safer way reguardless of wether or not the step has worked for you 5 or 6 times..

 

letha

 

BLASPHEMY! BigRed350X's words are the divine truth, and we shall obey. With his unparalleled knowledge of guns, chicks, hazardous road driving, life-flight trauma, porting, transmission modifications, case splitting, welding, frame modification, rhino liner application, and unforetold other fabrication expertise, we have but the wisom of infants in comparison. Clearly, this is a workmanship issue with your HotRods crank.

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  • 3 months later...
I really can't speak for the torque that was on it as it was the first time i have ever broke into the bottom end and my intentions were to use your thread as a guide..As far as as the crank being flawed that isn't a issue.. that motor has been ran long enough to prove the crank isn't flawed..I called my builder when the top of the rod cracked..My builder basically said that it is not safe to do it that way and my new paper weight was proof..To loosely quote it went something liek "Doing it with the extension forces the rods fight aginst each other trying to rotate..The best way to do it is put the rod closest to the clutch to TDC..From there grab the bottom of the rod with your hand and make a fist where you hand is hitting the cases and preventing that rod from moving"..Anyways i decided to not follow the thread further and took the bottom end to the local shop and there was more devistation then i had at first realized..Turns out not only was there a crack in the top of the rod loop but both rods were bent..I'm not trying to talk trash about your thread red, I'm sure it took alot of time to do it but i figured i would say something though for those doing the walk through with a crank they have to have..basically the above quote is the safer way reguardless of wether or not the step has worked for you 5 or 6 times..

 

letha

 

Just to clarify something... at the very very beginning it says in very plain english that this isn't a guide and I'm not a professional builder by any means. You're using this thread as a "guide" was your first problem. The pictures were simply there to show you whats involved in splitting the cases. Had you bought and followed the procedures in a clymers manual you wouldn't be minus one crank. :thumbsup: It even says right above the picture of the extension through the rods... THIS IS HARD ON RODS. Sorry you fucked up a crank, but it was your own fault, not this thread. These are just pictures to give you an IDEA of whats involved, NOT a guide.

 

Here's a quote from the very first page.

"I am NOT a professional builder. These images are only to give you an idea of what is involved in a tear down. THIS IS NOT A MANUAL!! GO BUY A DAMN CLYMER IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE!!! I am not responsible for anything you jack up while trying to follow these pictures."

Edited by BigRed350x
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  • 10 months later...

ohh no i was going to use this today to split my case but all the pictures are gone!!!! well anyone know how to get the clutch shaft out i pulled on it like clymers said and it only came out about an inch and now its stuck?!?!

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ohh no i was going to use this today to split my case but all the pictures are gone!!!! well anyone know how to get the clutch shaft out i pulled on it like clymers said and it only came out about an inch and now its stuck?!?!

Pull harder... sometimes they catch a little bit.

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  • 1 month later...

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