aj77ta Posted July 1, 2005 Report Share Posted July 1, 2005 I have a 97 banshee, hot rod rods and crank, vitos super stock pistons .060 over, ported cylinders, boynsen reeds, pro circut pipes, stock carbs with 300 mains and toomey needles set one down from the top, new dyna adjustable cdi box, new coil, stator and pickup coil from rickey stator, brand new b7es plugs, noss cool head with 20cc domes, all the tors crap is removed. The problem is that the thing runs very strong but it only runs when it wants too. Somtimes it will start up and run great for about 30min and then it will start missing and backfiring and will not start back. It you pull the plugs they look great they are a milky brown color. When you try to start it it will run for about 1 to 2 seconds and then quit even if you try to pull it off. It will keep that up for days and then you can just do somtning stupid like switch the position of the coil wires or un plug some connector for the 20th time and plug it back and it will run again for a while and then start doing the same crap. Ive searched for this problem for about a month now and cannot find a bad connection anywhere. What do you all thinK it could be, help please!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 1, 2005 Report Share Posted July 1, 2005 Sounds like you know your bike well. ... A couple of points: 1/ The DynaFS requires resistor ('R') type spark plugs "ONLY". 2/ Why a #7 NGK? ... With your mods, you should be closer to a 9 than the standard 8. (Not that this is your problem here). ... You've went colder. What elevation and temp.? Rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted July 1, 2005 Report Share Posted July 1, 2005 You need to find a "buddy". Plain and simple, you have to find someone with a running banshee that you can borrow the cdi, coil and stator off of. Then, not all at once but one at a time, put these pieces on there and go ride for a bit and see if the fix is found. If it starts acting up, take that part off and swap in another part until, hopefully, you've found the issue. Rare has a good point on the resistor plugs, make sure you take out the 7's and replace them ONLY with BR8ES until you get this problem fixed. Buy 2 or 3 sets. Also, you need to get a timing light. Park a vehicle next to the quad and put the 12v connectors to the car's battery, then hook up the light's pickup wire to a plug wire. Try to fire it up, if it's not starting, ensure that you have light coming out of the timing light. Try the other side. Also, check your grounds, and I mean EVERY SINGLE ONE. Check back by the CDI, then check by the coil, just check them all and verify the ground with an ohmmeter to be sure. A simple loose ground can cause severe pains on a running bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsoron Posted July 4, 2005 Report Share Posted July 4, 2005 I had a similar problem, but mine ended being that I had a bad sealing surface in my cases and had a leak. I had to do a leak down test to trace the leak. This leak caused the cylinder to lean out/suck transmission oil into the cylinder and then detonate. Eventually running with it like that caused me to hole a piston. I would check the other electrical things first especially the harness if its hacked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBD Posted July 4, 2005 Report Share Posted July 4, 2005 Check and make sure that you do not have a fuel delivery problem from the tank The pick up in the tank can be restricted with crud etc.., not giving you enough fuel flow causing the carb bowls going dry under power.... "Fuel Starvation" Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradrs Posted July 5, 2005 Report Share Posted July 5, 2005 I have a 97 banshee, hot rod rods and crank, vitos super stock pistons .060 over, ported cylinders, boynsen reeds, pro circut pipes, stock carbs with 300 mains and toomey needles set one down from the top, new dyna adjustable cdi box, new coil, stator and pickup coil from rickey stator, brand new b7es plugs, noss cool head with 20cc domes, all the tors crap is removed. The problem is that the thing runs very strong but it only runs when it wants too. Somtimes it will start up and run great for about 30min and then it will start missing and backfiring and will not start back. It you pull the plugs they look great they are a milky brown color. When you try to start it it will run for about 1 to 2 seconds and then quit even if you try to pull it off. It will keep that up for days and then you can just do somtning stupid like switch the position of the coil wires or un plug some connector for the 20th time and plug it back and it will run again for a while and then start doing the same crap. Ive searched for this problem for about a month now and cannot find a bad connection anywhere. What do you all thinK it could be, help please!!!! 387693[/snapback] If you have the keyswitch turned off and try to kick start it with the Dyna, it will run for a second or so, then shut off, like you are describing. If you removed the keyswitch, it might be worth looking at the wiring there to see if it is grounded properly. As Rare pointed out, a resistor plug is VERY important to use with most aftermarket ignitions. I would recommend that as the very first step you take in troubleshooting this, and going back to the 8 range plug is not a bad idea either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee4u Posted July 5, 2005 Report Share Posted July 5, 2005 300 mains sound small to me if you have a good port job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GYTWYPT Posted July 7, 2005 Report Share Posted July 7, 2005 well my .02 Make sure there is no bear wires arcing to the frame or wiring harness getting melted on some pipes somewhere. Vent tube on your fuel cap is not pinched offf. and possibly flywheel rubbing some wires near your stator. Later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80overShee Posted July 7, 2005 Report Share Posted July 7, 2005 I had the same exact problem. I traced every ground and cleaned them all up very well. Cleaned up every connection and jumpered my key to always "ON" (open) and I have never had a problem since. Double check that TORS crap. I just rebuilt a Blaster (waste of time) and it took 4 days to figure out that the TORS sensor in the thumb throttle was shutting the spark off......STUPID And its not like it has been eliminated in newer machines. My friends 450R shuts down if you hit the throttle very fast from idle. It just flat out dies instantly...VERY irritating Good luck, electrical always sux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradrs Posted July 7, 2005 Report Share Posted July 7, 2005 I had the same exact problem. I traced every ground and cleaned them all up very well. Cleaned up every connection and jumpered my key to always "ON" (open) and I have never had a problem since. Double check that TORS crap. I just rebuilt a Blaster (waste of time) and it took 4 days to figure out that the TORS sensor in the thumb throttle was shutting the spark off......STUPID And its not like it has been eliminated in newer machines. My friends 450R shuts down if you hit the throttle very fast from idle. It just flat out dies instantly...VERY irritating There is no TORS on a 450R. That is more likely an issue that can be fixed with carb work. Be careful how you recommend jumpering the key. On banshees, the key circuit is closed to run, so you need to ground it to bypass it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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