bradrs

The green/yellow in the harness is for the parking brake function. The dyna box uses it for the launch limiter. The stock box uses it to to limit the revs with the parking brake on. It's not needed, just one of those liability things, like the TORS. If you don't want it, just leave it disconnected, and it will work fine.

If you have newer dyna FS ignition, it has a green output wire for the tach. It puts out a signal compatible with most 4 cylinder sportbike tachs, and should work with many 4 cylinder car tachs as well. Now you just have to figure out what car tach that you have, that reads to 12,000 RPM.

Call them and ask. The instructions state for best results, use the stock stuff, because that was what Dynatek designed it to work with. But if people start reporting issues using it with other parts, then Dyna will usually do some research to figure out the problem, and any possible solutions. The guy who designed the banshee ignition, Brad, could probably tell you off the top of his head. Actually, he just did.

Dyna has tested with aftermarket stators, and in several cases works with the manufacturers of those stators to make sure the parts work together well.

That would be a completely false rumor. Dyna recommends the stock coil, it even says so in the instructions.

If 2 of the connectors match up to whats on your 03, you have the right ignition. If the 3rd connector is triangular, that is for the curve selector switch, that allows you to switch between curves. If it had a 4th connector that is a square 4 pin connector, that would be for reprogramming. The reprogrammable ones also have a few other wires coming out for other features(brown, blue, and sometimes green).

I get to deal with stuck ones from time to time at the shop. One thing I have found is that sometimes the lock tab gets caught on an edge of the connector. Try pushing the connectors together slightly, then press the lock tab, then pull them apart(still pressing the lock tab).If that doesn't work, I get a second pair of hands so that I can carefully press the lock with a screwdriver, and then get the other person to pull the connector.

2 strokes don't have a limiter, but if the timing isn't dialed in right, you lose all sorts of power up top, and it feels like you run into a wall. Some OE boxes use that to tell you when to shift. A CDI box by itself is far from a gimmick product, you can get all the advantage of adding timing in the low and mid range, while extending the usable RPM up top. But if they are claiming to up the rev limiter on a 2 stroke, be very wary, they may not understand exactly what they are selling you.

Try pulling more advance out at the high RPM, possibly even to single digits before 10,000 RPM. Another thing to try is holding the timing advance high a little longer in the midrange, like the Dyna curve 3. Then have it drop quicker in the upper RPM. Look at your dyno runs, I'd be real surprised if you are getting anything by adjusting timing in that 11000+RPM range. Focus more in the 8-9K range. As an aside, the Dyna curves are all designed to work with a pretty broad range of mods, giving performance gains while staying in a pretty safe operating area. As you can see, when you tailor a curve to the exact needs of your engine and fuel, your going to get a lot more gains out of it.

I haven't heard of a lot of people modifying the 3000GT ignition, what exactly did you change? The stock coils on it aren't that bad. They could be showing their age by now, but in good condition, the stock stuff on them is good. Timing on the banshee will make quite a difference. Improved spark energy from hotter ignitions or coils may make a little seat of the pants change. But the biggest difference you will see is from changing timing.

There is no TORS on a 450R. That is more likely an issue that can be fixed with carb work. Be careful how you recommend jumpering the key. On banshees, the key circuit is closed to run, so you need to ground it to bypass it.

If you have the keyswitch turned off and try to kick start it with the Dyna, it will run for a second or so, then shut off, like you are describing. If you removed the keyswitch, it might be worth looking at the wiring there to see if it is grounded properly. As Rare pointed out, a resistor plug is VERY important to use with most aftermarket ignitions. I would recommend that as the very first step you take in troubleshooting this, and going back to the 8 range plug is not a bad idea either.

Once detonation starts, it creates more hot spots, and causes more detonation. In addition to the other suggestions here, I would consider a few things when rebuilding: 1) Check your plug heat ranges. A plug that works fine for MX may not get enough heat out when you hammer it for a mile or more. 2) When you adjust timing, do it in smaller increments, and try to keep other things more constant. You dropped your fuel octane, and changed to a timing map with 3 more degrees of advance on the top end compared to what you had been running, and decided to go WOT for a mile all at once. Not a good combo. 3) I'd even consider running a different timing map for holding WOT for so long like that. There are instructions on how to wire in a handlebar mount switch on the dyna website, that would allow you to switch between them easily on the fly.

So the Dyna worked for a while after the tors was removed? Call Dyna, ask for tech support, they can go over the list of things to check with you. I'd suspect there is something in the harness(either TORS removal, or possibly removal of keyswitch or other parts), that is causing this. The box is under warranty, and they will work with you to figure out the cause of this problem. Brad

So the bike didn't run when you tried to rev it? And it did the exact same for both boxes? The odds of getting 2 bad boxes are pretty remote. What else have you done to the bike?