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Az -Street legal banshee blew on me...rebuild


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Hey.. i have a 1998 banshee 350 has insurance street legal , it was built strictly for the street ,  well with the exception of dirt but i always have street tires on so i don't try to go on dirt , well thats what my builder had said,  it ran pretty good for about 6 months running it non stop from work and back everyday would probably be on the motor 6 to 7 hours everyday. Every stoplight always on the motor revving it up hitting corners hard all that good stuff , eventually while getting off the freeway (75mph) i try not to stay on it to long for the mph so its brief but the motor just made a loud sound, the gas wasn't working at all i left it running as i was coming to a stop keep in mind my quads still moving since i was a high speeds . I come to a stop the motor smells , i try to kick it,  it turns on but sound like shit just horrible. Took it into a shop here ( one of my homies buddy ) he took it apart charged me $100 to take apart a find out the problem . Come to find out my crank is to shit.. my pistons were okay but im going to be replacing those anyway so basically the guy at the shop was going to charge me 1500 for everything to make sure the bike runs again . i looked up prices online and was able to get a cranks and pistons for about 575 all together im still debating on weather i should just let the shop do it for that price or i can give it a shot and try to rebuild myself . unfortunately  i already got the parts in so i just might ended up doing it . im just a little concerned on how hard it would be . i got a clymers manual and everything i looked through it all , it honestly doesn't look like its something i wouldn't be able to do myself ive worked on a top end once with my dad which ended up running for 2 hours but melted the pistons lol maybe we weren't paying attention and plus i was 16 at that time i feel like if i were to be very careful and observe everything i should be okay ? any inputs? sorry for all the info just wanting to give back story . Also any suggestion for my quad to last a lot longer on the streets and i do know when putting a banshee on the street it puts a lot of strain on the engine and components as the guy at the shop said it puts the quad to the test but what would help out the banshee street wise ( i take the banshee to the dunes sometimes but i like it as an everyday ride ) id really appreciate all feedback .

 

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Im sorry mods i have are

bored to 64.50 ,

15t for top speed ( highway) ,

 Fatty Gold Exhaust  , 

GBC AFTERBURN STREET FORCE 25X8RX12 ,

PRO DESIGN COOL HEAD 19cc , 

TORS removal mod , 

Jetting i think is at 27.5 pilot jets and main jets at 300 not to sure tho on that will double check 

stock swing arm

 

anything i should change before tearing her apart ? and i bought wiseco pistons and crank anything i should change ? any inputs on what would be best for street use . would greatly appreciate

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6-7 hours a day is a crazy a lot of time!   your not going to find much lasting you.... if you swing 100+ hours on a motor i'd say it did good...

 

If you do ride that much you need to start wrenching yourself or else that bike is going to make you go broke.

 

 

You said you did the top end once way back.... odds are it had an air leak..

 

You have the clymers so thats 80% of the battle.... do some searching on here there's TONS of build threads with detailed pictures.

 

 

ALso invest in a leak down tester or build your own.

 

What crank are yo ugetting for that kind of price on a kit?    Dont go to any knock off cheapo crank.

 

 

Also to help increase motor life you may want to drop your compression from 19cc.... depending on your elevation thats some high kicking comp...

 

Get your comp around 140ish at the very most and you probably will want a squish on the looser side for those long WOT runs.

Edited by ride.race.live
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Hell ye brother thanks for the replies means a lot , have had this bad boy sitting for 2 months it hurts me seeing it like that lol.

i was gonna have the shop rebuild it but exactly like you said i just have to learn on my own eventually im sure the cost will catch up to me so i ended up taking my bike from my buddies shop so that i can work on it.

  All that awaits now is that i take the engine out , the top end was taken apart from the builder he even took apart the carbs which idk why its gonna be a B*** to put back together? hopefully not , sorry for the quick replys i was a work and saw this thought it was an opportunity i had to jump on and idk if spacing my paragraph helps out so ill do that so it doesnt look cluttered sorry.

So at this moment this is were i stand 

motor somewhat pulled apart,  just top end ( jugs , pistons, cool head , carbs ) but have not pulled out the whole motor completely to slit the cases which i have to do forsure ( play on the rods )

 

The pistons and crank i got was like a deal for wiesco , which now i greatly regret buying because i was doing some research on here and found a lot of you prefer hot rod which i honestly rather pay more so i dont have to keep splitting case in the long run . Buuut i got them already so maybe i can pull apart the wiesco crank and put different bearings and rods? ( of course having a shop do that part )

i got the flywheel puller , have not got a leak down tester but that no doubt in my mind im gonna get next, i also got the clutch holder and some basic tools for the engine im sure i need a torque wrench but that all i feel like i would be missing .... anything else?

 im not cheap at all so any suggestion on parts and brands let me know im all hears forsure

ill try to reply to everyone as soon as i can again i appreciate the feed back im just a work thanks again guys 100%

 

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The most popular route is Hot rods but I think wiseco cranks are ok too?  (someone can chim in that knows more on wiseco cranks)  ive always just preached HR.

You could upgrade just your outer bearing to the proper *max load* bearings.  (i'd pick them up from a reputable builder on here as there's more then 1 type of maxload and installing the wrong one will be no good.

Get some good gasket sealer  such as 1211 or yamabond (plenty other kinds you can use too) 

Couple tips and tricks... Get yourself some baggies and label EVERYTHING in separate baggies.  Take a lot of pictures before you take apart and after...  If you think you see something you might forget how to put back  write some notes..  

TQ wrench for the build is def a plus when your inexperienced.. the main things I usually tq is the flywheel, base cyl, head, PTO gear on crank and clutch basket. 

 

Couple spots over looked for leak downs...

use sealant on the PTO keyway and around the PTO gear (its know to have an air leak there) Also use some sealnt on both sides of your  intake gaskets (for reeds and boots) I duno about others but every build ive done ive always found air leaks around my intake  if I didnt put sealant. 

 

Also using vaseline on your cool head o rings helps keep them in place when you drop it on the cyls.  

 

 

Carbs are straight forward and shouldnt be an issue for you.. nothing much to them! 

Edited by ride.race.live
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29 minutes ago, kawa110 said:

^^^agreed.
Straight cut gears—less stress on crank.

If I could have the option.....I would have a second engine built and put on shelf to swap out when it’s time to “freshen” up things.

i was considering that but i thought that was for more high powered motors like the cheetahs and what not but hey i was planning on doing that the only reason is because i didn't think it worked with slightly modded shees

 

Shit i was no lie gonna do that since i had already bought the parts to rebuild the motor , use this one to try has a beginner and have another one from an actual builder how much would that run me for someone to send me out a motor on here ?

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20 minutes ago, ride.race.live said:

The most popular route is Hot rods but I think wiseco cranks are ok too?  (someone can chim in that knows more on wiseco cranks)  ive always just preached HR.

You could upgrade just your outer bearing to the proper *max load* bearings.  (i'd pick them up from a reputable builder on here as there's more then 1 type of maxload and installing the wrong one will be no good.

Get some good gasket sealer  such as 1211 or yamabond (plenty other kinds you can use too) 

Couple tips and tricks... Get yourself some baggies and label EVERYTHING in separate baggies.  Take a lot of pictures before you take apart and after...  If you think you see something you might forget how to put back  write some notes..  

TQ wrench for the build is def a plus when your inexperienced.. the main things I usually tq is the flywheel, base cyl, head, PTO gear on crank and clutch basket. 

 

Couple spots over looked for leak downs...

use sealant on the PTO keyway and around the PTO gear (its know to have an air leak there) Also use some sealnt on both sides of your  intake gaskets (for reeds and boots) I duno about others but every build ive done ive always found air leaks around my intake  if I didnt put sealant. 

 

Also using vaseline on your cool head o rings helps keep them in place when you drop it on the cyls.  

 

 

Carbs are straight forward and shouldnt be an issue for you.. nothing much to them! 

Forsure will do on that max load bearing and forsure on that yamabond thanks i was wonder what to use on splitting the case since i see different people use different stuff i just want the most reliable stuff and as for that about of hours on that motor im forsure that its past 100 hr so im glad to know i at least got everything i could out of the motor but now its time to take care of that bad boy feel bad i was abuse the shit out of it on the streets , in guy up there said to use straight cut gears could i use that on a slightly modded bike like mine? and thanks for the info on the leak lol i was pissed when it melted my pistons litteraly only 2 hours of riding and had to get a whole new top end and have the jugs acid in them but anyway and lol so even if he took them off the wire and took out my jets and all so it seemed like it would be hard to put back 

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Straight cuts would be  over kill but would it hurt it? absolutely not. 

 

Where straight cuts shine is on bikes that are constantly launching hard  under heavy loads... so on those dead stop hard launches on pavement with street tires is where it would technically help.. but on a more so stock bike its not a deal breaking option in my opinion. (especially when your looking at the cost) 

 

im saying 100 hours is lots..   ofcourse some bikes see well over 100 hours but 100 hours on a motor before needing rebuild isnt horrible in my eyes. 

 

Other things you can look into is your water pump... if its original i'd consider changing it.. either to a new aftermarket or OEM one.  just for safe keeping its a cheap swap out.

 

 

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With that amount of time on a motor, you need to be thinking about far more then just replacing the Pistons and crank. There are several wear items that are in the low end and if you are splitting the cases, it makes sense to take care of it all at once so you don't need to deal with it again. 

Things like the Transmission bearings, shift shaft, shift eccentric screw, any easier shifting mods, all clutch parts, crank seals, pancake bearing, clutch actuator arm, shift rod and ball, maybe even do a Pro Mod transmission so it shifts nice and easy. Pretty sure Jeff at FAST has a whole package price for all that type of stuff with all the little special OEM clips and washer type stuff. Now is definitely the time to handle it all. In all reality, Banshee's are about as easy as they come. You have the Clymer's manual and if you've read it all, you should be good to go. 

If you're not sure, hit up D&M racing and talk to Doug or Shane. 

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