MLack Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Posted July 2, 2014 Ahhh gotcha. Either way these FMFs gotta go. ProCircuts and 916s huh??? Would be that much better than the FMFs and PT Mids on a ported 4mil? Also what carbs you guys thinking? Quote
MLack Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for the info man. Its looking like SLPs or PT Highs. Time to do some research. Quote
bluebanshee98 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Posted July 2, 2014 Since this is a woods build I really think your best bet would be the slp pipes. They make as much power as the CPI, more trq and come off the face like a mofo. Exactly what you need in the woods. I would contact cam also but I'm sure he would recommend the pipes Quote
MLack Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Posted March 10, 2015 **UPDATE** Was installing a new kicker the other day and then realized i was able to push the kicker all the way down with my hand with very little resistance...HMMMM. I did a compression test and got 70 and 50psi. WTF!Pull the top end off and can feel the piston to cylinder clearance is huge, they feel really loose in the bore. Ring end gap shows .069 and .129. Needless to say it needs a top-end after about 10 rides. I talked to Kevin and a couple other builders and the consensus is......Air filter letting dirt past. There are tons of vertical scratches in the bore and some on the piston. Piston is a matte grey color and the bores are very shiny. I used a cleaned and oiled UNI filter for each ride. I used Amsoil oil mixed @ 40:1. The trails I ride are pretty much just open dirt roads used for logging back in the day. So its dusty and being as open as they are the bike sees alot of WOT. Any other thoughts on why I'd lose a top-end soo soon? What else can I do to prevent this from happening again? Tighter fitting K&N filter with outerwear? more oil? Quote
trickedcarbine Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 Improper bore from the get go? Intake leak at filter to carb, or carb to manifold. Dirty fuel, dirty petcock. Quote
sheerider11 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Posted March 10, 2015 We're the cylinders chamfered well? That will eat rings and turn them into razor blades that destroy bores. I learned that the hard way. Now I let one person do all the work on my motor. He also has seen his fair share of hjr motor take craps. Where are you from? Quote
MLack Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Posted March 10, 2015 Defiantly not dirty fuel. Petcock is new. If any leak it would have been where the filter is clamped to the airbox. Guess there was no way for me to tell if they were bored incorrect. The end gap was in spec when I installed the pistons. The rings look good. No noticeable wear on those and they are not sharp at all. I can only assume they were chamfered properly when he bored it. I'm from MN. Quote
MLack Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Stock airbox with out a lid. I had the factory white cage in there that has a rubber gasket between the white cage and the airbox housing. They are bolted together tight Then, I used a huge half inch ziptie on the internal yellow filter and one on the outer red filter. I don't think there is any way dirt and dust got through that. Edited March 10, 2015 by MLack Quote
MLack Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Posted March 13, 2015 Getting packed up and sent to Redline today. Quote
MLack Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) UPDATE: I noticed a few things after looking over the bottom end. Little bit of trans fluid on the clutch side of the crank and the trans fluid was very shiny when I drained it. So I split the cases to inspect everything. Looks like the crank seal on the clutch side fell victim to the dirt being inhaled as well. So new set of seals coming. The shiny trans fluid..the clutch looks toast. A few questions. What clutch? Tusk HD or the Driveline? Now the trans is out, a good friend of mine runs a machine shop and can modify the shift drum for the bearing and mill down every other dog on the gears. Is this worth the hassle of pulling it all apart? is the "pro-mod" trans good for a woods bike? Backload an issue? Alot of on and off the throttle going to be a problem? Let me know what you all think. Edited March 31, 2015 by MLack Quote
MLack Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Posted March 31, 2015 ZillaFreak: Driveline it is! Thoughts on the promod? Quote
MLack Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Posted March 31, 2015 MN CREW!!!! SpecialBlend: Where you from and where do you ride? Zilla: I have everything except the bearing on the cam and the dogs cut. I'm just worried about the on throttle and off throttle in a woods bike. Ive read all day on this damn think and Im sure I'll be find. Maybe over thinking it. I think ill have him cut 2-5. I don't see the need to cut 1&6. Correct me if I'm wrong. Quote
trickedcarbine Posted March 31, 2015 Report Posted March 31, 2015 2-5 would be murdered in the woods. You want a promod. Quote
MLack Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) 2-5 would be murdered in the woods. You want a promod. no no no. Im talking about a promod. But only cutting 3 dogs off of gears 2,3,4 and 5. Leaving gears 1 and 6 with the full 6 dogs. Edited March 31, 2015 by MLack Quote
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