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Posted

I've been reading some of the posts about adding an adj. timing plate and it seems to a good bang for the buck. I just had the jugs bored and honed and I'm getting ready to put everything back together this week. The question is this: Should I set the timing plate at +4 or should I leave it at the stock setting until the top end is broken in?

Mods:

Forged 20 over pistons

Toomey T6 Pipes

K&N Filter (no lid)

Boost bottle (if it matters)

Posted

I have found Avgas to really compliment the +4 timing. I even ran it with the stock head/compression. I pay only $4.65 for 100LL here, damn good deal/performance gain over premium pump, but not as horribly expensive as race gas!

Posted

I have found Avgas to really compliment the +4 timing. I even ran it with the stock head/compression. I pay only $4.65 for 100LL here, damn good deal/performance gain over premium pump, but not as horribly expensive as race gas!

i run ave gas also. 175 compresion 66 slugs ten degrees timing 72 hp. ya 10 may sound like a lot but trust me you will feel the diferance

Posted

i run ave gas also. 175 compresion 66 slugs ten degrees timing 72 hp. ya 10 may sound like a lot but trust me you will feel the diferance

Can someone inform me on what ave 100LL gas is? Im running a fairly stock setup but im planning on a rebuild/hone and port the cylinders and also want to do +4 timing plate. I am planning on running 91 octane, would that be okay? When its all said and done what kind of power gain should I expect, right now I have stock cylinders (well overdue for a rebuild) stock carbs with K&N can filters.

Posted

Can someone inform me on what ave 100LL gas is? Im running a fairly stock setup but im planning on a rebuild/hone and port the cylinders and also want to do +4 timing plate. I am planning on running 91 octane, would that be okay? When its all said and done what kind of power gain should I expect, right now I have stock cylinders (well overdue for a rebuild) stock carbs with K&N can filters.

 

rgdrum....yes you will still be able to run your shee on pump gas after a topend rebuild (if you don't go crazy adding power-mods)

an easy way to check is it check your compression....if your over 160 psi your gonna be running the fine line of detonating...needing more octane to prevent this.

 

100LL is aviation fuel for planes. its octane is roughly around 100 but it the LL stands for Low Lead. also aviation fuel is more strict with the mxiing requirements so it usually is a little more stable than vehicle fuel.

Posted

i run ave gas also. 175 compresion 66 slugs ten degrees timing 72 hp. ya 10 may sound like a lot but trust me you will feel the diferance

 

Now I'm confused! lol I thought anything over +4 was more the alcohol/race gas crowd? Any insight peeps?

Posted

when I first bought my banshee the previous owner had an ajustable timing plate on there and it was set at +10 for two years! He also ran 89 octane with a shaved head!

Posted

+4 is fine. just make sure youre running the appropriate octane fuel for your compression and timing.

Thanks for the info:

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but I want to make sure. I can install an adjustable timing plate, setting it at +4, at the same time that I'm breaking in a new top end? Or should I set it at the stock setting until the top end is broken in?

Posted

Thanks for the info:

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but I want to make sure. I can install an adjustable timing plate, setting it at +4, at the same time that I'm breaking in a new top end? Or should I set it at the stock setting until the top end is broken in?

you are perfectly fine breaking in the engine at +4.just break it in as normal procedure,doing you heat cycles properly.

Posted

When I just took my Shee apart after getting it from previous owner who didn't know much about it I discovered 18cc domes and +10 timing. Noone ever mentioned high octane either. Glad I tore it apart because I had been running 93 in it and I guess it helped it needs rings and the compression was down. So what gives, why would this be setup this way?

Posted

you are perfectly fine breaking in the engine at +4.just break it in as normal procedure,doing you heat cycles properly.

 

Thanks for the response. Any thoughts on shaving the head .040 and Polising the domes and the exhaust ports? Trying to gain as much HP as possible with out loosing reliability.

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