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Posted (edited)

Hey what's up guys new to this forum.

 

I would like to know if anyone can give me some advise on the timing plate. I have a 2000 Banshee that is bored 20 over with .20 shaved off stocked heads, boyesen reeds, pro circuit pipes, K&N air filter without air box lid, stock 26 carbs, with 270 main jets, reed spacers, and boost bottle.

 

My banshee rips and pulls out of the hole hard, but like everyone else I would like a little more bottom end for climbing. I don't want to pour out my cylinders because I like the way it runs. My question is: Is it a good idea to add +4 timing to it? Will this affect anything besides loosing a little top end? I know I don't have to rejet but will I have to run higher than 91 octane. My compression is good at 130, I just want to know what you guys think. Will this help?

Edited by pitbull2424
Posted

You will be just fine advancing the timing 4 degrees. If you like the way your engine runs now you will love it if you get it ported. Take the piece of shit boost bottle off and put the stock crossover back on, you'll probably notice a little better throttle response. I played with a boost bottle when I was new, bike ran better without it.

Posted

You will be just fine advancing the timing 4 degrees. If you like the way your engine runs now you will love it if you get it ported. Take the piece of shit boost bottle off and put the stock crossover back on, you'll probably notice a little better throttle response. I played with a boost bottle when I was new, bike ran better without it.

 

 

Thanks as far as boost bottle I know it's an up and down battle, my throttle response is on the money. As far as advancing the timing you say it's a good idea. Is there any special timing plate or are they all the same? Thanks!

Posted

Thanks as far as boost bottle I know it's an up and down battle, my throttle response is on the money. As far as advancing the timing you say it's a good idea. Is there any special timing plate or are they all the same? Thanks!

You can modify your stock timing plate with a dremel or but a one for 35$. I just run a cast one on my drag bike with no problems. Just make sure you use a good flywheel puller so you dont hurt your crank or break your magnets in your flywheel you can get them for about 12$.

Posted

You can modify your stock timing plate with a dremel or but a one for 35$. I just run a cast one on my drag bike with no problems. Just make sure you use a good flywheel puller so you dont hurt your crank or break your magnets in your flywheel you can get them for about 12$.

 

 

Thanks! Also I have another banshee with a 2n1 carb I think it's crap it's bored 100 over with a very mild port. I want to put the stock 26 carbs because I think it will run

alot better, damn thing boggs down bad when i take off. I've done plenty of plug checks and they look good. What's your input on that? Thanks.

Posted

Thanks! Also I have another banshee with a 2n1 carb I think it's crap it's bored 100 over with a very mild port. I want to put the stock 26 carbs because I think it will run

alot better, damn thing boggs down bad when i take off. I've done plenty of plug checks and they look good. What's your input on that? Thanks.

I am not a fan of the singal carb set up at all, i would run the dual carbs any day. Some people like them but i do not and i have never gotten out ran by one either. B)

Posted

Hey what's up guys new to this forum.

 

I would like to know if anyone can give me some advise on the timing plate. I have a 2000 Banshee that is bored 20 over with .20 shaved off stocked heads, boyesen reeds, pro circuit pipes, K&N air filter without air box lid, stock 26 carbs, with 270 main jets, reed spacers, and boost bottle.

 

My banshee rips and pulls out of the hole hard, but like everyone else I would like a little more bottom end for climbing. I don't want to pour out my cylinders because I like the way it runs. My question is: Is it a good idea to add +4 timing to it? Will this affect anything besides loosing a little top end? I know I don't have to rejet but will I have to run higher than 91 octane. My compression is good at 130, I just want to know what you guys think. Will this help?

Posted

i run similar setup to yours. i have 20cc domes in my head, though........+4 was ok, but +5.5 is what i like the best. i don't even notice any topend loss either, and the gears are really long. what is the elevation and current bore size? on the 2-1, make sure the mains are dialed in first by doing a proper plug chop to the letter, then play with the needles to get it running good from <1/4 throttle through 3/4 throttle, and then set the pilots.

Posted

i run similar setup to yours. i have 20cc domes in my head, though........+4 was ok, but +5.5 is what i like the best. i don't even notice any topend loss either, and the gears are really long. what is the elevation and current bore size? on the 2-1, make sure the mains are dialed in first by doing a proper plug chop to the letter, then play with the needles to get it running good from <1/4 throttle through 3/4 throttle, and then set the pilots.

 

Sorry for the delay on answering was out of town. I am currently bored 100 over with a very mild port at 5000 feet, main jet is 180 with a needle in the center groove as for pilot I do not know. Any suggestions??? The bike has a very hesitant take off. I rejet it up and down and cant figure out what is wrong. Thanks!!!

Posted

well, keep changing the jets untill you get your wot good, and do a plug chop to confirm. THAT IS THE SIZE YOU NEED. then you play with the needle, and likely have to change it. then, you get your pilot done. i'm not real familiar with non-mikuni carb jet sizes, so someone else should chime in.

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