powertripn

It's a good idea to locktight the bolts on the pickup.Also did you make any changes to the wiring harness like add a kill switch or remove your parking brake ect... ?I would double check all of your electrical connections.Are you sure your carbs are opening exactly the same?

Thanks man i appreciate your help.

Not sure off hand on the drill and tap size.Buy your new screw and go a well stocked hardware store and you can match it up.As far as the grinding goes I put my carbs in a vise and just filed that piece down flat so the lock nut on the idle screw sits flush.All carbs are a little different but I would just file it flat and you will probably be good.

If you can't use a heli-ciol to repair the idle screw hole you can mix up some jb weld and get a good amount in the idle screw hole let it fully cure and you can drill and tap it and put a new idle screw in it and your good to go.You can do this for $10.00 for the jb and a new idle screw.

Yea the jb weld thing is common.Once it in there its there to stay.

I JUST FINISHED PUTTING MY MOTOR TOGETHER AND I'M LOOKING FOR SOME ADVICE ON JETTING MY 35mm PWK's. MY COMBO IS A 4mm LONG ROD,VITO'S MONOBLOCK 68.5mm,DUNE/DRAG PORTED W BOOST PORTS,V FORCE 3, WICKED MANIFOLDS,TRINITY OOF PIPES,35mmPWK's, K&N PODS.I LIVE IN MICHIGAN SO ELEVATION ISN'T MUCH.I APPRECIATE ANY HELP,I DON'T KNOW WHAT'S A GOOD, SAFE STARTING POINT.

I don't know about the ones from FAST but on the Vito's powerjets one full turn of the dial in equal to roughly three jet sizes.

I got it all straightened out.Thank bro.

Hey guys,I'm trying to drop my monoblock on my 68.5mm WSM forged pistons and the rings are driving me fu++ing crazy.They are so sloppy I can't get them compressed enough to get one piston started in the bore. Can I use some Wiesco rings on these pistons ?

Also make sure you don't overtighten the studs.You can distort the deck surface and create sealing problems.

Having a couple threads still showing is normal.It's nothing to worry about.

Hey guys I'm wondering if the overflow bottle is really needed.I have every cooling system upgrade available and would like to ditch the bottle .Is this a good idea or not.Thanks

I'M FINISHING UP MY MOTOR AND I'M LOOKING FOR SOME OPINIONS ON JETTING.IT'S A VITO'S MONOBLOCK DUNE/DRAG PORTED WITH BOOST PORTS, 4MM LONG ROD CRANK, 68.25MM WEISCOS,20CC DOMES, VFORCE 3, WICKED MOTORSPORTS MANIFOLDS,35MMPWKS,K&N PODS,TIMING PLATE AT +4,NOLOGY COIL,TRINITY OUT OF FRAMES W/SILENCERS.THANKS IN ADVANCE GUYS.

I'm surprised your having problems with Joey.He lightened my flywheel with excellent communication and turnaround time.Like everyone else said keep on calling and if nothing else ebay will cover you without a doubt.

Looks good to me.There is guy on ebay that sells a aluminum mounting plate that goes behind the radiator.I put it on mine and it fit perfect.All the holes are predrilled.I think I paid $26.95.It was worth every penny for how nice it looks and works.

There are 2 studs longer than the others.They go in the hole above the exhaust port.As far as torque specs I screw mine in and LIGHTLY snug them up.If you tighten them up too much you can distort the deck surface.

I'M THINKING ABOUT ADDING SOME VITO'S POWERJETS AKA DIAL-A-JETS TO MY 35MMPWKS.ANYBODY USING THESE? ARE THEY WORTH IT?THANKS

I have sold a couple of these kits on ebay and basically Vito's 404 kit consists of big bore sleeves and cast 68mm pistons.If you take the head off the pistons will have std. stamped on the meaning they are the standard 68mm pistons that come with the kit.If it has a cool head you will have big bore domes in it.Stock heads will work without mods using Vito's big bore top end gasket kit.

Yea thats what I'm gonna do.By any chance do you have ant experience with these blocks.If so how do they run.

Hi guys,question for ya.I just bought a Vito's monoblock that has some piston residue in one of the bores.Is there any way to remove it without boring.The other cylinder is great and I got the piston too so I'm hoping to clean up the one cylinder,buy a piston and be good to go.Thanks in advance.

HI GUYS, I'M BUILDING MY FIRST BIG BORE MOTOR AND LOOKING FOR SOME OPINIONS ON DOME SIZE.I'M NOT AGAINST RACE GAS IF THE POWER INCREASE IS WORTH IT.IT'S A 4MM LONG ROD,68MM PISTONS, DUNE PORTED , COOL HEAD, 35MMPWK, V FORCE3,TRINITY OOF PIPES,THANKS IN ADVANCE

I'M BUILDING MY FIRST BIG BORE MOTOR AND LOOKING FOR OPINIONS ON DOME SIZE.I'M NOT AGAINST RACE GAS IF THE PERFORMANCE INCREASE IS WORTH IT.IT'S A 4MM LONG ROD CRANK WITH 68 MM PISTONS,DUNE PORTED,VFORCE 3, 35MMPWK,TRINITY OOF PIPES.THANKS IN ADVANCE.

THAT LOOKS WRONG TO ME.I JUST DID MINE TODAY.THE PANCAKE BEARING PART GOES ON THE INSIDE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE.THE END WITH THE MACHINED FLATS GOES THROUGH THE PRESSURE PLATE.THEN YOU ADJUST IT USING A PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER OR ALLEN WRENCH(depending on brand) AND THEN LOCK IT IN PLACE WITH THE NUT AND YOUR DONE.

I had the same problem on mine a while back.I had no detonation and the jetting was right on.My plugs just seem to loosen slightly after a hard ride.I bought a plug lock for mine on ebay and solved the problem.

Great ,thanks bro