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Showing results for tags 'banshee'.
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What's up guys, I made a video on how to replace the bushings in your stock linkage. I hope this helps someone! Please let me know what you think and subscribe to my YouTube channel if you found it helpful or if you have any suggestions on how I could have done it better! I know the audio got messed up in the last minute but the good stuff is all in there. Link - Thanks again! Mike
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Need a nice set of chrome or nickel toomeys, paypal ready.
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'99 Banshee motor Found a cub motor and took this out of my bike. Built by Shaun at Top Dog racing in Damascus,OR. I have all the receipts and the dyno sheet for this motor, 50hp with t5s on pump gas. Polished clutch cover with RIS designs flame dipstick, waterpump and clutch insert, billet impeller(brand unknown), Driveline HD clutch pack with springs, coolhead with 20cc domes, clean up port on the cylinders. Call,text or PM me Joe 971-221-6086 $800 + plus shipping
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Hey guys I have recently came across a problem with my banshee after my pops and I put it back together. We have done a complete rebuild top to bottom this winter and when we started it up recently it doesnt seem to hit the power band. It makes a lot of noise, but doesnt go anywhere. Upgrades are as follows: Toomy T5 pipes Cool head with 21cc domes (new domes) Pwk 28s with 158 mains (new) V force 4 reeds Vitos trued and welded crank (New) Uni pod foam filters Port job 65mm pistons (new) All electrical components are factory oem, but have not been replaced as far as I know. I am at sea level: Hampton Roads, Virginia The banshee starts first kick and idles great. I just dont know what could be causing this issue. Mostly everything is brand new. Reeds have checked out fine. All help is appreciated! Help get me riding this summer!
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i am in the pikesville maryland area, please do not offer if you are far away, i can offer up to $2400, or a honda 300ex and $1000 cash. not sure if this is really the site for buying and selling complete atv's, but for serious offers and if you have read the entire description, my phone number is 443-909-9771.
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First of all hello from Far North Queensland Australia, I have a Vortex X10 ignition for sale this unit came off my 2011 Yamaha Banshee 350, was swapped out for another aftermarket ignition. Has been a very good unit, bike performs well but just wanted to change. This unit cost over $600AUD to buy plus shipping, yours today for $430AUD plus $$ for Economy Air shipping comes with all the original paperwork that came with the unit, Installation Instructions & X10 Map Setting sheet, this also includes the handle bar switch for the unit. If there are any question please feel free to contact me, I will do my best to answer them in a timely fashion. All prices in Australian Dollars. Photos to come. -
Hey whats up guys my father and I are bulding a banshee together. What we need to know is what size carbs you guys would recommend for our build. List of mods: Trued and welded crank (We are running a little bit bigger pistons than stock. Would have to get back to you on that if it makes a difference) Toomy t5 pipes V fource 4 reeds Cool heads 21cc domes Boost bottle. k&n air filters. All feedback is appreciated! Thanks!
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Ok so I just picked up a 1998 Banshee today and it has a Extended swing arm with Roundhouse carrier... When putting it on the lift I noticed the rear axle to be sloppy also the brake caliper stay brake bracket free floating around... Question is , what keeps the brake bracket stationary to the carrier?? Don't want it to stay sloppy, causes the brake caliper to bind on the Rotor!!!
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Let my buddy drive my banshee last year down my driveway and back... Long story short he sent my banshee threw my garage door. Broke a lot of stuff and tweeked my frame pretty good. Im going this weekend to look at a 1989 banshee that has almost everything i need but its a J arm frame not an A arm frame. Just wondering if everything will bolt up properly?
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6 Weeks ago my banshee developed a clutch problem. I rode down the road and when I released the clutch handle the clutch arm jammed and the clutch cable came loose. We knocked the clutch arm back, put the cable back in place, tightened and we were able able to push the clutch arm fully back and forth with our finger alone, so it worked again. Now we've got it back and after changing gears for the first time, it did the same thing. Pulled in the clutch handle, release and it didn't spring back. Because the clutch arm jammed shut and the cable had come loose and was pulling freely. We tried the same thing but only managed to free it a little, the clutch arm does not go far enough forward to actually engage the clutch. I'd like to know if there's anything if I can do to help the situation that doesnt require a lot of stripping. I'd like to refrain from sending it to the Yamaha mechanic for the 3rd time in 5 months, but if it involves taking the engine out, stripping the clutch and removing the carbs just to take out the clutch linkage, then i'll just send it to the mechanic once again because I really don't know what to look for. Here is a video showing the problem:
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Hey guys, I need some opinions on which set of pipes would be best for the most power. My mods are listed below -.060 super ultra stroker pistons -4 mill vitos stroker crank -keihin 35mm 2:1 carb -cool heads with 22cc domes -155lb of compression -fmf gold series pipes -k&n air filter without airbox lid I do alot of trail riding, dune riding, pretty much all riding. This bike was recently dynoed by MacDaddy racing and made 61.28 hp @ 9,670rpm I was debating between rocket drag style pipes or shearer drag pipes and want your guys's opinions on which would be best for me. Thanks!
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Hi I'm not new here I had another account but i forgot the password lol anyway I now have a hole in my case right above the front sprocket the chain came off an blew a nice little chunk off I think i got lucky because it's not leaking or anything. Now Im in the process of taking the chain off next week i might take off the back sprocket an give it a hour long inspection for wear an damage. The week after that I will take off the front sprocket an replace it with a new one with a brand new nut an washer thingy. Does anybody have any tips for doing such labor?
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Ok so I have a 2000 banshee. Mods that I can get off the top of my head are...4mill, +4timing, Coolhead 17 or 18cc domes, v force reeds, boost bottle, toomey t5, r1000 clutch. .020 over Problem I had was I wanted to get rid of stock air box for pods, so i did and while I was at it I removed the coolant resivor, I'm pretty that Dosent affect any thing with the engine tho. so before I had removed the air box it ran really rich and would bog at low throttle and the moment I switched to pods the bike ran super lean and was hard to start with out giving it lots of throttle and when it would finally start no idle at all. So I took it to a local shop (Snuffy Raching) to get it rejetted, the guy told me that the compression was around 40 and other 90!!! I don't know if I'm right but can a banshee even start with that little compression??? So I'm thinking he's doing compression test wrong (tell me if I'm wrong tho) he's telling me also that the rings or pistons might be shot (with out even looking at them yet). So with that being said the bike before would (with air box) would bog at low rpm but would them take off fast and hard with power at higher rpm and now I take it to a shop for some rejetting and I now I might be needing a top end rebuild!?!? Do you guys think he trying to get more money out of me or what could have caused those issues??? Especially the super low compression(if it's even true)!!!??? This is my second banshee and my first time taking one to someone for repairs (because I don't like dealing with jetting) . NEED SOME GOOD SOLID ANSWERS PLEASE BEFORE HE DOSE SOMETHING THAT ISNT NEEDED!!!!
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Ok new here and new to two-strokes don't know what's all done to the motor but it's not stock was built by some guy supposedly professional guy in North Dakota. What would be the safe yet powerful fuel mix and what oil?
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Ok so I'll make it simple for now there's more mods to the motor, but for now I'm currently running stock carbs and vforce reeds what do you guys think if I put a 2 in 1 intake on a 4 mill?? Will it loose power? Can it gain more power? Better throttle response? More speed less speed? Good or bad idea? What are the pros and cons of a 2 in 1 on a 4mill? If good idea what size carb is good and what intake? Thanks for the help
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Ok so I'm trying to find someone local or close by who can do some good carb tuning and jetting for my banshee. There's this one shop in my local town (MADERA, CA) that is called "SNUFFY RACING" I was wondering if anyone have ever hear of them or that name before??? Just wondering this, but had I called a while back ago about taking apart and repairing a banshee engine for me and they told me they charge around 350$ (WITH MOTOR ALREADY OUT OF BIKE) is that good pricing or to much??? If anyone has hear about this place are they good, bad, or dose that price for repairing a motor sound good? If you guys know any good shops near Madera let me know please! I suck at jetting and I rather spend a little cash to get it done right and done with then crack my head over it lol. Thanks to all!
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Ok so I have a 2000 banshee that wasn't running perfect, it would bog and have poor throttle responce when I would punch it in the 1-2 gears. But it would start up and idle normal with 1-2 kicks. The intake boots cracked, so I took changed them out and put some new ones in, while I was at it I removed the stock air box that had the lid removed and had a k&n filter. I put some k&n filter pods in. Along with that I'm pretty sure this has no effect with the idle but I also removed the coolent resivor. As for all the jetting specs I currently do not know them. What the bike has motor wise is 4mill, cool head and 17cc domes using liquid ice coolent, stock jugs .030 over, tors gone, boost bottle, 4+ timing, vforce reeds, and I'm running 91 gas with redline 2t oil 50:1 ratio. Something that I noticed kinda weird about it is when I got it (about two weeks ago) the previous owner had the idle screws in all the way and air screw 2.5 turns out. Just a reminder it didn't want to idle any more after I changed the cracked boots for new ones, removed the air box for pods, and removed the coolent resivor. Hope to get some helpful answer this, thanks to all way head of time
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550 ft elevation , fmf fatty, boyesen dual stage reeds, maxima 927 40:1 mix, k&n pods. 260 main/30 pilot. jus removed my tors, did the eliminator kit, and installed new dual stage reeds. ordered a 290 main since the reeds richen the main jet but the reeds lean the pilot so it kinda like bogs/farts when i give it gas starting from idle, my air screw are about 1.5 turns out and new idle screws are all the way in far as can go. im thinking its doing this from not enough gas but when i turn the screws in more the idle doesnt sound as nice and tuned as it should, and with my idle screws pulled out any it wont idle by itself without me giving it throttle.. should i go up a size in the pilot jet? P.S.also i got my throttle close to being snappy as possible if i have it with too much play the bike will just start right up bog real quick and die out, my guess is from not enough gas b/c when i rev it high it sounds good braaap but when i low rev it slightly buurps any support is appreciated, Thanks
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Hello everyone! I recently bought my second banshee (4mill). Bike is 2000 with stroker, Coolhead 21 or 19cc domes believe, vforce reeds, r1000 clutch, magura hydralic clutch lever, +4 timing advance, t5's, tors eliminator, bored .030 over,running 50:1 ratio, stock carb(don't know current jetting) that's all I can think of right now motor. Bike is strong and fast as shit! It starts 1-2 kicks every time and idles fine. Problem is 1-2 gear has really bad low end throttle response and at times bogs. Once it catches speed bike takes off and problem goes away. I'm thinking it's jetting? I'm horrible when it comes to that
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okay on my 99 banshee, was running real strong till it fell over on its side on cement. continued to run strong for another 30 mins. then issues came from the exhaust it started smoking all white smoke out of one pipe only. turned it off and parked it. took the spark plugs out checked them, looked fine. problem is the banshee will not start back up so i can't really diagnose the problem. does anybody know where this could come from?
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hey guys so I recently purchased an 02 banshee 392 cheetah cub 4 mil stroker. the guy I bought it from was kind of a knob and couldn't answer any of my questions. he had paperwork from vitos that the original owner gave him showing the 392 kit was bought along with some other stuff. it has a pro design coolhead with 22cc domes, some sort of aftermarket carbon fiber reeds, Toomey t6 pipes and silencers, k&n direct mount air filters with outerwears, vitos performance carb kit (whatever that includes) 340 main, 25 pilot, and some red needles that must be part of the carb kit. but on the paperwork I noticed it said the 392 kit was for a stock crankshaft. he said he had it rebuilt 8 months ago and the place that did it told him it was a 4 mil stroker. is there any easy way of finding out for sure if this is a stroker or just a big bore besides having to pull the cylinders off and measure a rod? I thought maybe I could pull the coolhead and see if it has stroker domes in it. if so what is the difference between regular domes and stroker domes? also I went trail riding with it last weekend it ran great but it was very dusty and towards the end of the day it started hesitating a little bit. I didn't think too much of it but it had me a little worried. well the next day it wouldn't start. I pulled off the air cleaners and the slides were loaded with dirt and gunk. I know the air filters were clamped on tight and I noticed the tors units on top of the carbs were loose and wobbling around. could this be where all my dirt came from? I pulled off the carbs and cleaned everything out, installed new float needles because one overflow was leaking since I got it, and made sure to tighten down the top caps so the tors were not loose anymore. well ever since I tightened them down it runs like crap wont idle and falls flat on its face if I try to ride it. I messed around with the adjustment on the tors and just ended up disconnecting all the electrical connections at the brain box and the thumb throttle and now it runs great??!!! I don't get it. so I ordered the tors eliminator kit that should be here this week so hopefully solves that problem. I also ordered a new chariot billet intake and billet reed cages and im wondering if I will need to change my jetting? seems like a pretty big main jet and kind of a small pilot??? any help is greatly appreciated as I used to own a built quadzilla and a big bore trx330r but im new to the twin screamers!!! thanks guys -
Hey guys first post here I just bought an 03 banshee last summer and I am looking for some aftermarket parts!!!! Willing to pick up in the cenral Minnesota area!, let me know what you have! Thank you
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Hello Everyone I welcome you to my horror Story, Hopefully I can get some of my questions answered and some help to steer me in the right direction. I recently bought a banshee 01, it's my first 2 stroke. At time of purchase banshee had FMF head pipes + FMF core 2 silencers, UNI filter, Stock stroke crank, 66.25 Pistons, stock cylinders, Stock carbs with air box + lid running 300 main, 25 pilots, Gas was pump premium with 32:1 mix of BenoL, at the time of purchase Compression test was not done, just a quick ride through the gears and did notice neutral was very hard to find Also noticed that when you stand the banshee upright oil would leak out from somewhere though at the time i figured it was just overflow from somewhere After couple days riding, coolant starting leaking from the head or somewhere in that general area as the coolant started to leak on the head pipes. Replaced the radiator with an over sized one, filled with 50/50 coolant, Still same issue. Next took of the cylinder head , sanded down the top of the head slightly as it was a little nicked up, replaced the head gasket. This solved the coolant leak issue. Next ride, I started to notice that oil was dripping heavy out of the silencer pipes, I pulled off the spark plugs and they were fouled with oil, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the carbs and went down to 280 main + 25 pilots still, Issue was still there so I went to local Yamaha dealer and they recommended to change the type of 2 stroke oil I use, I switched from the BenoL to amsoil dominator at new ratio of 40:1. This did not solve the problem. I also changed the transmission oil to belray and did notice that the oil was very watery and milky when it was flushed out. Next ride, I noticed that the banshee was not getting alot of power and kept bogging down, As i was attempting to get the bike out of the woods and back onto my trailer, the bike in mid 3d gear just stopped lost complete power, and smoke started coming from the head, I managed to push it to trailer and when I got home , I opened the cylinder head and saw that my pistons were now trash and so was the cylinder head . Further inspection i noticed that the crank rod was loose and there was alot of play up and down as the bearing inside the rod ( i think that's what it's called ) somehow ended up not there and now somewhere in the bottom end. I ended up stripping the bike completely down and as a newbie I broke some parts along the way including cracking the engine cases as I'm a dumb ass who didn't just buy a 40.00 case opener and followed some dumb youtuber smack the case open with a rubber mallet, I also noticed when I removed the clutch basket that it had alligator teeth as shown in the pictures, and that the Water pump plastic gear which is on the impeller was completely stuck on it that I had to drill a hole into just to remove though it was spinning I could not pull it off like the manual said ( yes I removed the cir-clip and washer) My issue is now I need some direction of how to properly rebuild this motor and with proper parts I ended up buying a used Crank from some random guy on craigslist , When i inspected the crank there was no play in the rods and just looked like seals need to be replaced and all the gears and bearings spun freely. How do i make sure this crank is ok? Can i take it anywhere to have it balanced to make sure it is spinning straight? Bought a new top and bottom case from ebay with No Chain break, had the cases bead blasted. I have included a picture of how I want the motor to look and I know it will not be cheap, I just want it done right, I'm not looking to resell it but ride it. Frame, steering stem, foot pegs, swing arm was powder coated Hot Candy Blue Bought new bushings and bearings for every part, new Mullen water pump impeller, new main water pump gear, V force 4 reeds, New uni air filter , PJ1 OIL and cleaner Since I will be boring the cylinders to their last bore ( not sure if it is last bore) 66.50, is it even worth it to do that? Or should i search for a pair of stock jugs with 64.00 bore and buy pistons for them. I will be buying a cool head, which type and dome size do I go with? , Im in NJ and sea level is 219 above, and I want to run premium gas with no race fuel What do I do with the cases if im trying to get that look in the photos? Have them polished? Painted? Pro's / Cons What do I do about the cylinder head? Keep it ? Replace it with Cool Head?? Why did my bike shit on me? What could have caused this failure? Crank? Oil? Water pump? The previous owner who didn't take care of it at all? Riding it in the cold? I don't want to put this motor back together and have same BS issues. Any help any suggestions would GREATLY be appreciated. If you made it this far thank you. http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/Bansheenjx/story Please look at the photos I have taken
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looking for a top end setup for sale Need pistons, cylinders, head. Want a ported stock stroke or 4mm ready setup. Will consider a less preformance setup for a good price. Will also buy crank! Stock or 4mm paypal ready and experience shipping needs sent to North Dakota
