broke

I'm glad to hear things are in an upswing. Progress is progress, no matter how slow. I hope the concert turns out to be what it needs to be. I guess I never felt like I or any of us for that matter needed to post to convince somebody that I/we prayed. You should just have faith that it's happening. I don't pray, but we have talks. I'm not a religious man but any means, but do believe in God. I just believe in him in my own way, not the way somebody in church told me I needed to. I hope things we be the best they can possibly be.

So you're looking for every type of alarm on the market. They all pretty much do the same things now. I will admit, this is one of the normal(est) things you have asked about that I can recall. Every time I see one of you're posts it makes me think of Super Troopers.

45ish

NYUK was able to swingers from Grand River at one time, you should try to contact him and see if he still does. Cotton eyed joe makes swingers, they are nice and you may not be looking to spend that much..

I don't really like dynos for much of anything other than jetting. The numbers can be manipulated in 100s of ways and each dyno is different than the next. I would like to get mine on one strickly for dialing in the jetting for a pretty accurate baseline. The number itself would mean very little to me, I would just like the number to be the biggest it can be from being tuned right.

Buy Eric's and some weight gainer. You guys can't be too much different in weight. Screw that getting the shocks built to suit you, build yourself to suit what ever shocks you find

They will work fine with a J-arm frame, no fabrication is needed. Eric will have to correct me on this, but i think they are fully adjustable(comp,reb,preld). Nice guy to deal with aslo.

I have a set, I offered them to BenBB first, so let me at least give him some time to respond before I sell them to someone else.

I'm also interested.

Yes, and no. I would start with a little bit better pipe if your plans include a Cub in the future. T-5s aren't bad pipes, they just are not going to let that Cub really shine. Cleaning the carbs is definately the first step, you are right about that. Air filters are a definate also. The Cool Head or any manufacturers head shouls work fine with the Cub down the road. I have had great luck with V-Force reeds, but do a search on them. They can also be reused with the cub. And the boost bottle.......... I'm not even going to go there.

I am one of the ones that had bad luck with a Vito's crank. My advice would be to go with a +4 crank right now and just use a spacer plate. WHen you do decide to step it up, the stroker part will already be done and you can have the porting done to match your riding style. For the amount of time and money you will spend on the stock stroke, the stroker crank will only be slightly more expensive and it will stop you from having to tear down the motor again in the future.

Thanks for all the responses. It's a 12 port +4 RZ motor. Not real high performance, but not stock either. I would guess it around 70hp give or take a few. It's lightly grooved, but it may be time to just bite the bullet and get a billet one.

It is a FAST clutch. Free play was at least the minimum amount. Arrows ligned up between the cases and clutch arm. I am kind of leaning toward the worn pressure plate, the inner hub is new.

I'm amazed that light of a car broke an electric pole. We see cars hit these things constantly at work and most of the poles survive, they just have stories to tell. It had to hit it high, I don't think there is much to those cars, just motor, aluminum, titanium and Jackasses wrapped in plastic.

Fibers, steels, springs and cable were all new when the motor was built. They have about four hours on them total. I don't mind buying new parts, but I would at least like to figure out what cooked these ones first. I would hate to burn through $100 in clutch parts every 4 hours constantly.

What the title says.

What's all included with the cylinders? All the powervalve hardwear, orings, seal, caps for the outer seals, Connector to attach the valves together? Servo pulley? Good price for complete standard bores also.

Do you have any idea what that would run$$$$$$$

The last time I had this out, it ran great, then the clutch started to fade. Within a few miles the clutch locked up completely. I had to start it in gear and drive back to the truck. I originally thought the rod and ball had become one. When I pulled it apart, everything looks fine. The only thing that even shows that anything happened is you can see some serious blueing on the steels from the heat. The entire motor only has about 4 hours on it. Has anybody had there steels "feel" like the seized to the fibers, I pretty much had to peel the whole stack apart. I've never seen anything like this.

Moron

Dan Wade from Patriot Racing is another I would look in to. He did my first motor and Jim from Passion did my current one. Both are excellent builders, but that's not to say that others aren't. As far as woods/MX ports go there isn't a whole lot to them, so the prices are usually pretty reasonable. The amount of time a builder has to spend grinding/measuring/shaping/calculating is where the added expense come into play with the expensive port jobs. I can give you what I built for woods, but it's an RZ motor, so that's comparing apples to oranges.

Don't do it. I don't know if I'd let a DS camp with us at the dunes.

Send them to [email protected]

I have the top four. $50 shipped. I have a seat, but it's in nice shape, probably more than you're looking for.

Yamaha does NOT make them anymore, they now spec Banshee shift forks for RZ replacements. Ebay is going to be your best bet. I actually found mine through a member here (thanks Jared).