hotrodbanshee

Just ordered klotz supertechniplate oil from rockymountainatv. I have been running castor927 and have about a 1/4 tank left, can I mix that with with the klotz or do I need to drain the tank first?

I am looking to buy a case of 32oz Klotz Supertechniplate. Who has the best prices on this oil by the case? I would like to find someone closer to texas so shipping won't be as much.

ME TOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer:

Put it in 1st gear and lock the parking brake.

So does the klotz supertech burn alot cleaner than the castor 927?

I have been running the castor 927 for 3 years and get alot of carbon buildup on pistons and inside my pipes. I am thinking about switching to belray H1R synthetic premix. Is this a good oil to run?

Out of those two oils which one burns cleaner? I have been running the castor927 for 3 years and I get alot of carbon buildup in pipes and the tops of the pistons. I think i will be switching to belray H1R synthetic premix @40:1.

I just had my crank welded and trued by mrcrankshaft. His name is Vince and owens vince cycles in KY and he specializes in rebuilding crankshafts. He welded and trued my crank for $65.00 and that included return shipping. Go to his web site mrcrankshaft.com and call him, he's really a great guy.

I will try that first before removing the engine from the frame and opening the transmission.

It's been getting hard to find neutral on my 03 shee and shifting thru the gears is not as smooth. I just had to replace the oil seal on the main shaft (front sprocket) today. I took the chain off and it is very hard to turn the front sprocket by hand while in neutral(shouldn't it spin freely?). I put it back together and started it in neutral and noticed a lot of tension on the chain, I picked up the rear and the wheels started spinning 10+mph all while in neutral. Pulling the clutch in has little effect on it. Something is not right in the transmision. Anybody have an idea what could be wrong? Would a bent shift fork cause this or something else bent in the trans? I have 2000-3000 miles of pretty hard riding on it. I have one topend rebuild and have never been inside the trans yet? Please help?????????????????

Thinking I am going to try Bel-Ray H1R.

Is'nt that castor based oil.

I think I might switch to petro based oil.

Are there premix oils out there that run cleaner than others? I get a lot of carbon buildup on my exhaust pipes. Also my plugs get pretty black. i am running castor 927. I know my jetting is not rich. I have one bottle left and was thinking about switching to something else. Are there any other oils that will burn cleaner?

Type F auto transmission fluid.

I went ahead and did some changes to my shee. I changed out the dynojet needles,the clips on the 4th groove to the stock needles, clips on the 3rd groove from top. Cleaned my spark plugs on a wire wheel on my bench grinder and narrowed the plug gap to .020 She ran perfect for me with no miss at all @ WOT. I only ran her for 15-20 minutes. I am going to try and get out this weekend and ride and hopefully I won't get the missing out @ WOT. By the way I had 340 mains installed instead of 330 like I posted at the beginning. I think shee was fouling the plugs in the mid range and causing it to miss out at WOT. I do ride alot of trails.

Last year. 180psi compression

I am running stock pilots

They were starting to turn light brown tan. They were pretty dark from running part throttle. I will need to run her some more a WOT to make sure. If I put my air cleaner lid back and test her that should be enough to test and see if I need to go up on my mains? If it still misses out with the lid on something else is wrong huh? I will try and run her this week.

I am on the 4th clip down from top dynojet needle's. Still have the stock needle's, should I try them? I was running it around 1/4-3/4 throttle for a while and the plugs were very dark tan/black, looked rich to me. I took it out on the road and held it at WOT for 5-10 sec and the plugs got lighter in color.

I run without the air lid, proflow K/N outerware. I have sprayed carb cleaner arouind the carb boots and no change in rpm. It's really stressing me out. I guess I'll try different size mains and see what happens. If I was running rich it would bog as if I was running the choke half way out right?

It's a popping type sputter and as long as you hold it @WOT it keeps doing it. I am running 330 mains in it right now.

When I run my shee, say 2nd or 3rd gear and hold it at wide open throttle, it starts missing and cutting out. Is this a lean condition? It runs really good up untill I hit WOT. Please help?????????

Well I did not have any 27.5 pilots to try, but I did raise my needles to the 4th clip and shee ran great no missing out. Thanks guys...

My shee hicups(misses out) when I am idling around in gear and then hit WOT. If I am running 1/4-1/2 throttle there is no miss at all when I hit WOT. I think it is a little lean off idle. Should I go ahead and increase the size of the pilot jets. I am running the stock pilots now, and I have some 30 pilots. If I ease into to it it doesn't cut out. It runs as if you did not turn the gas petcock on and start riding and hit the throttle and it starts missing out because lack of fuel. My mods are: stock carbs toomy t5's k/n pro flo no lid 350 mains stock pilots toomy needles 2nd notch from top air screw 1 3/4 turns out 36:1 fuel ratio