hotrodbanshee

I know for sure the oil is not the problem. I live in Tx where it gets 100 degrees.

I set my floats at 22mm. Should I go to 23-24mm?

I just replaced both needles and seats on my stock carbs and mine still leaks from the overflows. I could not blow air through them with the needles closed. I can't figure out what is wrong. The carbs were perfectly clean. Always have to turn off the gas when not riding.

I will try that tomorrow. Does anyone else have any advice?

It has been getting harder to find neutral lately. I went ahead and ordered a tudor shift pro. I pulled my side cover off and the clutch assembly. I installed the shift pro. Now my question. While my shee is in neutral I spin the rear wheels with my hand and the main shaft where the clutch assembly bolts onto turns also. Shouldn't it turn only when it is in gear? I can hold the main shaft in my hand and keep it from turning, but you have to hold it pretty tight. And if you turn the main shaft while in neutral the rear wheels turn. Is it normal for the main shaft to turn while in neutral? Should I split the cases and inspect or just put it back together and see if the shift pro fixes it? Any help thanks? P.S. I noticed some metallic shavings in the oil and on my magnetic drain plug. I know you will get some because of no oil filter. I really don't know if it is more than normal.

Well I find out they do not make the knarlys to fit 10"rims. I guess I will probaly go with the klaws. Will the klaws be a lot lighter than the I Razr's?

I did a search and read that the klaws and knarlys are a great tire for traction when you cut every other row out. Out of those two which tires has better accleration without cutting every other row out?

Anyone running the new Maxxis I Razr. Are they worth $84.00 each. I can get the claws for $67ea.

22" will be to big and heavy for me. Anybody else have any input on tires for traction?

Need new tires. I am currently running 20x11-10 holeshot XCR03 on my shee, but they don't hookup at all on loose or hardpak,they just spin there ass off.It's hard to get the front end upon her unless I am on pavement.I still have 75%+ thread life on them I want to change to something that will get more traction. I was thinking of the maxxis I Razr, kenda Klaws. Will these tires have more traction? I trail ride loose and hardpak.

There is a buzzing noise that does not sound normal to me and seems to be getting louder overtime.It's coming from my clutch. It makes the noise when the bike is in neutral. Most of the noise goes away when the clutch lever is pulled in. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? Could the adjuster bolt in the pressure plate cause this? I am going to try and pull the clutch cover off in the next few days and inspect it.I have tusk clutch plates/fibers installed.

I have went from 280 mains up to 370 mains and it still misses out at WOT. My plugs look really good with the 370 mains. I just now noticed that there is oil/fuel leaking where the left reed cage bolts onto the cylinder. I started thinking if there is fuel leaking there, then @ WOT it is sucking air in there also and causing it to miss out. When I did my topend rebuild I reused the reed cage gaskets that were on there because they looked fine. I have a set of new gaskets that I will install this week and hopefully it will solve my problem.

I am on my last bottle of castor 927. I am thinking about switching to Klotz Super Techniplate. I can get it for $6.50 quart, a $1.00 a quart cheaper than 927. Is this a good switch? Will it burn cleaner than castor 927?

castor 927 @ 40:1

I just got finished installing 350 mains. Ran a whole lot better. Did not miss and backfire this time. Pulled the plugs and they were darker. Still on the light side though. I am going to put 370 mains in tomorrow and run her.

Well I dropped the needles one notch and put in 280 mains. Mid range was great but topend was really lean,(plugs were white) and it sputtered and backfired really bad at WOT like a fourstroke hitting it's rev limiter. So I put in 330 mains and the plugs got a little darker, still not dark tan and it still sputtered and backfired @ WOT. I think I am going to try 350 mains next. Could something else be causeing it to run bad at WOT or just a lean condition? I did put in new plugs.

I am mixing c12 with 93 octane 50/50.

I just rebuilt my topend with new weisco prolites. It had stock pistons before with 135 psi compression. Now it has 185 psi compression. I was running 400 mains with the stock pistons. A friend of mine told me that the motor is more efficent now and does not need as big of jets. He said to try 280 mains. I also changed my oil/fuel ratio from 32:1 to 40:1(castor 927).

What would cause my shee to miss and pop at wide open throttle (Rich or Lean) condition? I am at sea level and running 300 mains. It runs great idle to 3/4 throttle. My mods are below. Please help fast.

If I mix 1/2&1/2 the vp c12 108 octane with 93 octane that would give me 100.5 octane. Would that be enough octane for 180-190psi compression?

Hey guys I have a 190psi in each cylinder and have my timing advanced 4 degrees. The dealer sells the Sunoco 114 octane @ $5.50 gallon. I can also get VP c12 108 octane @$5.25 gallon. Can I mix that with 93 pump gas? That should put me at around 100-105 octane. Will this be enough octane for my setup? Which fuel is better? Thanks

Ring gap and piston clearance were set to specs.I am going to try and get some race fuel this week. They don't sell it where I live so I have to travel 60 miles to get it.

I rebuilt my topend and bored it .020 over and put in weisco pro lite pistons in. I have a 185 psi compression in each cylinder and I have my timing advanced 4 degrees. I am running 93 octane with octane booster added to my gas. I am noticing a crackling noise in the topend when I am accerlating really hard. Is my motor detonating? Should I be running race fuel? If so, what octane level should I be running and what brand? Can it be mixed whith pump gas?

No it's not the kick starter. It's inside the clutch cover

I had a rattling noise in the clutch area so I replaced the basket since there was slack on the starter gear. Installed a new hinson basket and spacer on the main shaft. Put it back together and still has a rattling noise in the clutch area. The rattling goes away when the clutch lever is pulled in. What would be causeing this noise? Should i worry?