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Ray, It sounds like you are looking for a snowmobile trailer 8.5 x 16 or 20' long. This will hold 2 quads side by side so you can drive on and off. As far as unloading and loading you have me stumped. I have had both tilt beds, flat with pull out ramps (Aluminum) and enclosed and for open trailers and for atv's I feel the pull out ramp is the way to go. If you get a drive on drive off trailer you can put the ramp on front and back thus you never have to yank the quads off. In NY I deal with Blizzard Manufacturing in Old Forge/Boonville. they may have dealership in your area. They do have a web site just not sure of the link. Chris

hey guys, I am looking for a set of yellow front plastic for the 06 SE. If you have any you are looking to get rid of please let me know. Chopped or unchopped is fine but must be in new condition. Thanks Chris

The Fatty's of today are the same pipe as the Gold Series of the late 80's early 90's. I have a set on my 89 shee and I beat alot of shees with the pipes made today. A great pipe with good low and mid power. Chris

I have about 5 hours on the RZ but haven't rode much since I only had the stock pipes. My new pipes are coming this week so I can hopefully get the quad jetted this weekend. For more pics do a search under my name. Back in June I had a bunch. Will have more pics shortly with all the goodies bolted on. Yeah, there is no plaece for the temp sensor or thermostat but there the head is very nice. Chris

The following are some pics of the Pro-Design Coolhead I just installed on my RZ. The head was pretty easy to assemble and has a low profile look in comparison to the stock RZ head. The kit came with studs, washers, accorn nuts, O'rings and Shell. Domes are seperate and are the same as used on the shee motor. Chris

I am not sure who you guys are using for a chromer but average turnaround is about 2 weeks max. I have been up on this Rocket pipe deal the past year or so and there is more to add to the chroming story than someone may have told you, and wait time is not it. At this point if you are not in a hurry I would wait for the new R-2's I have been talking to the pipe designer over the past year and the pipes are designed a bit different but will have excellent low end and will pull closer to a sheerer on top. You will have the best of both worlds. Chris

Thanks Tom for yor support of us HQ'ers. Your offer is very tempting but unfortunately I do not have enough time to partake in this test this year. However, I do appreciate your interest in offering a set of pipes for us consumers to test for you. That is a sure sign that you are dedicated to produce a high quality great performing pipe. Like others, I can't wait to see the new pipe especially since the design will clear the powervalves on the RZ conversion. Keep me up the good work and Sign me up! Chris

Hey Tom, How's it going, In regards to your question if anyone is still building them it is not many. Occasionally I hear of people on the HQ getting rockets but is far and few between. Talk to you later. Chris

A gage is not necessary to sync your carbs. What I like to do is to first get the cables in sync then the idle screws. To start remove your filter so you can see the back of your carb slides. Then back out the the idle screws so they are not lifting the slides. At this point loosen up the lock not on the throttle cable where it hits the carb top and back cable adjuster to the point where when you loosen it the slide does not move downward. Do this for both sides. At this point you need to look at the carb slides and gently press on the throttle to make sure the slides both move at the same time. If one moves before the other adjust the cable on top of the carb until both move at the same time. This may take some time but is essential in maintaining good throttle response. If you are satisfied that both move at the same time tighten up the cable lock nuts and to finalize check the slides one more time. A this point the cable tension is pretty even. Now move to the idle screws. Adjust the idle screws the same way as the cabels so when you hit the gas they move at the same time. Now you are ready to ride. PS; If you have stock carbs make sure the carb slides are in the right carb. Chris

Thanks for the sarcastic yet humorous response. :yelrotflmao: I will try to give Gary a call and see what he recommends. I may just modify what I have. That would probably be the easiest way to go.

Guys, Looking for a set of A-Arm guards for my Quick Sand A-arms. Unfortunately, my PRM's don't fit. Does anyone know who makes specialized plates for aftermarket Arms? Any material is fine, the bike is not a rock hopper so carbon, plastic or aliminum is fine, however I prefer aluminum. Thanks Chris

I have read that the RZ crank has a tad bit longer of a rod, but I don't beleive it. If you want do a search on a online fishe they are probably the same part number. I am running a complete RZ motor in banshee cases and there are no problems. The RZ crank would have the same issue as the shee crank. If you have it out get it welded if not don't worry about it. I ran an unwelded crank for over 15 years and never had a problem on a full mod shee. I would not worry about it. Chris

Congrats, and welcome to the club. You are really in for a treat. Not only is the shee a thrill to ride, it is a thrill to tinker with. There is no machine on the market that has the potential of a shee and once you start tinkering it makes the machine even funner to own. For this you have come to the right place. We will take care of ya! Chris

Sorry broke. I actually told you guys 3 days ago!

The kit which included the o'rings, studs, domes, brass washers, accorn nuts and domes was $300.00. If youn have domes you can just buy the head for I think $230.00 Chris

I agree, Momma wantes your tool. Does she have any sisters!! :biggrin:

No problem Shee-Male. Just trying to help keep us RZ boys up to par. I wish I new this last year, I wouldn't have bothered having mine cut. Chris

Guys, A couple months ago a post was created to find out if there was ever or is there a High comp head for the RZ motor. At that time there were no positive answers just a thought that Pro Design once made them. After calling them shortly after, they told me that they have them in stock ready to ship. The head uses the same domes as the shee and actually looks exactly the same except it is a bit wider and the outlet flange is a bit different. I have included a pic for your review. Chris

I had the stock RZ head cut about .030 - .035 and compression was not where it shoudl have been. A couple months ago on the HQ the question came up if there was ever a High comp head for the RZ. Some members recalled there used to be but noone seemed to know if they were still available. S0 I called Pro Design and they have them in stock. Tom, the ower has been making them for years and has alot of expereince on the RZ. Give him a call. I have some pics to post that I should get to this morning. Chris

Sorry to herar about your bad experience with UPP products. I personaly never have dealt with them mainly because I think three prices are high. However I do understand trying to buy a better boot than the stockers. ON e-bay about 2 weeks ago I notice d a company named Boss that uses a one pc billet intake flange, looks the same as the Pro dsign version but uses no boost bottle. I guess there is actually an internal passage that acts as the equilibrium. The price is only $100.00. Look them up, I am pretty impressed. Chris

As broke mentioned the swap is not that bad but the wiring can be a bit tricky. However you have come to the right place to learn about this swap. There are several on this site, including myself that have successfully conquered this challenge. Feel free to do a serch under my screen name. I posted several photos a couple of months ago on the completion of my RZ project and shoewed some examples on how I mounted some of the hardware. Unfortunately, I have not seen the full potential of the RZ, but I just received my new High comp head and my Rockets should be here within the next 2 weeks, then we will see what this thing has got. Chris

I pay $400 for full coverage on my 06 and my 89 shee. This include $1000 in aftemarket parts on each. I delt with progressive for the past 6 years and they stuck in my ass really good. Found a company in Michigan called Foremost, a subisdiary of AIG, Awesome rates and good service. PLUS, They cover different frames on quads, which other than progressive I have yet to find one that does. Chris

Parts unlimited caries the O'rings. I recall the part number being PD900, around $20.00. The stud you will probablly have to buy from PD. Really, I buy pats directly form PD and there prices are not unreasonable. Chris

I'd say go with 28's, unless you are steering in the max power direction. You will get much better mileage and you can get 28 FS Mikuni' for less than $200.00. Yes, The TORS has to go. Chris

The mains will work, but the pilot jets won't. I am not sure of the rest! Chris