Yaxy

Ken, Lets start with the low end. The 28 FS Carbs are very sensitive on the bottom end. The air screw on the side of the carb plays a major part in your throttle response. You mentioned that you have a 27.5 pilot. Now lets assume your carbs are clean in in sync (both the throttle cables and then the idle screws). For starters turn the air screws all the way in. Now put along in like 2nd or 3rd gear at low RPM and apply WOT. If the bike just bogs and wants to stall your pilot jet is to small, go up to a 30 and try again. If quad accelerates you know you are in the range with the pilot jet. Turn air screw out 1 turn and try again and you should be fine. Your needle sounds good On top end I still think you need to go to a larger main. Here in NY at about 1000' above see levle I run 20 pilots on both shees ( I have run as low as 15's on the one), a 270 main on one quad and 340 on the other with airboxes and lids on, as mentioned on my other post. Chris

Typically, if you are rich the bike will spit and sputter, smoke alot and may even follow plugs, not bog. I have two shees which are outfitted with 28FS mikunis. Both bikes are ported yada yada yada and I run 20 pilot jets on both.The shee with FMF pipes run a 270 main and my RZ shee, with Rockets run a 340 main. Both bikes use the stock airbox with the PD filter kit. So i am not sure how the Bill's pipes flow but at least this gives you an idea on the range that is possible. Still I think you are lean. Go up in size. Chris

Your bog on top is probably because your main is to lean. Light grey is not where you want to be, light tan is. Go up on the main a couple of sizes and see what happens. Also, I am assuming your carbs are clean, in sync and your needles are not bent. Chris

Is it possible to hear the motor run or is it removed from the chasis. I live in Ny and I may be interested. Also Pics would be helpful if you have some. Chris

I am glad to here Tom is making progress. i will have to give him a call and see how my 2 sets are coming. No BS guys to what Loco said. I tested these pipes prior to Loco on my RZ and other shee (More of a MX, fast Trail set up) and they work really well. The power delivery is exactly what Loco said, and I would have to add one more thing. When the pipe comes on, you are immediately in the powerband and they hit extremely hard, like my Rockets but much sooner, have more low end and rip on top. Compared to my non RZ shee equipped with the FMF's, they were a night and day difference in every aspect. Chris

Folks, I am interested inpurchasing a set of headlights and a tailight from an 06 SE Shee. Actually, all I need is the wiring harnesses but will consider the complete assy. Headlight assy to be in new condition. Thanks Chris

Thanks, I will check out motosport ATV Chris

Hey guys, Do these Knarly's come ina 4-ply tire? All I have seen is 6-ply tires and I don't want to go that route. (Too heavy) Chris

That would be an absolute disgrace to us Banshee owners if Yamaha called a 4-stroke a Banshee. The Banshee was born a 2-stroke and it should rest in piece like one, period! Chris

Last year I was trying to find a pipe chromer like you were. I called about a half dozen places all around the US and the average price was between $300 and $400 buck for a new set. You better off selling what you have and buying new ones already chromed. Chris

Understandable, but don't assume that if someone does it this way that it looks like crap. All you need is a small size 8 screw, and paint the hangar and it will be very hard to tell. Of course I also run full frt plastic so you will never see the screws anyway. Chris

Buy some stock new ones, drill two small holes in each and put a screw and nut in. Compress the rubber just so sligthly when you tighten the screw and add a little locktight to the nut. Probelm solved. Chris

You probably do not need to take the powervalves out, but my preference is to remove them. After the bore/hone job you will want to clean the cylinders up anyway. To do a really good job cleaning them you will want the powervalves removed. Plus you can check the o'rigns and repalce them as necessary. Patriot Racing and Passion have vast experience with the RZ motor. Patriot did my RZ and am very happy with Dan's work Chris

For the price of the nipple and the seal I would just go buy new. You can use the old stuff but you may damage the seal or nipple taking them. After the fact, you may find a leak resulting in additional time and cost associated with replacing them again, (Oil, gasket, nipple and seal ). Doing so will far outway the cost of putting in the new seals the first time. Chris

Yup, What BennBB said. You will have to buy the nipple from yamaha and attach the vent hose to it. Chris

I agree with you guys in theory that there should be absolutely no difference, Just repeating what I read in the past which did not make a lot of sense to begin with. It is also strange that if you price new cases the RZ ones run $700 + and the shee at $400 +, this also makes no sense. Chris

I don''t know guys. I did a search couple years ago on the HQ and I recall them not being interchangeable as far as using shee cylinders on RZ cases. Try some more searching. Chris

You can use RZ cylinders on banshee cases but you cannot use shee cylinders on RZ cases. The components from the RZ drop righ into the bsnshee cases, no problem. Chris

Thanks, all set, Ran wiire from CDI to stock key swith and then one from switch to spark pug coil. Chris

I still think the shift forks and drum or just the forks are why the RZ shifts so well. I replaced the shift star with a new shee one and that made no difference in how it shifts. Chris

Yes, The cluster drops right in. My current RZ has banshee cases. By the way, you are aware that the RZ gearing is taller than the shees? Also, most people like the shee gearing but use the RZ shift forks. Shifting is 100% better. Chris

Yes, The cluster drops right in. My current RZ has banshee cases. Chris

NYUK is right. Id be pissed to if people kept flying by my house. Plus like the most of us we have to fight to keep riding places open. What you are doing sure does not help.

Unlike the shee motor the RZ motor does not have a out tube that the pipes sloides over. By making an exhaust flange you are just repilicating what is alreadly on the shee. I have a shee and a RZ shee and with the same pipes the distance is almost identical. A RZ gasket and the shee head gasket are not the same. The RZ gasket and the head are wider in the front and are not interchangeable. I am not sure if 45 PSI is possible while cutting the stock head. You may have to go buy a Pro-design head and get the correct domes. Chris

PM sent :biggrin: