cRaZyShee8

I just bought a set tonight on Ebay. I think they will be a huge improvement over my PLAYED Works shocks that are setup for the previous owner who was 175lbs. I weigh 225 and I like the fact all these people say they are stiff. My question is, how nig are all of you that say they suck? Are you a buck fifty? Or 200+?

Bump? Any ideas on the raw fuel in the pipes?

Kinda like this: Sorry, tryin to add an attatchment, but its not working. I can email you a pic. I took a couple of mine before I put the flywheel on.

Found out why I had no smoke on the left cylinder- Went to try and start it this morning, and found this, -Kick start VERY stiff, had to real lean on it to kick it over the first time, thought to myself, oh shit.... almost felt seized. -Compression tested after this, wanted to make sure everything was ok, 190 on left, 185 on right. All good there. -Kicked a couple more times, not starting. Kicked about 20-30 more times, now I see raw fuel coming out where my expansion chamber couples to the silencer pipe on the left side. -Raw fuel in exhaust, makes me think, float valve stuck open. -Pull left carb off, completely clean, float valve is free, nothing found in any jet or passage. -Noticed slide stop (idle screw, whatever you wanna call it) is missing! This explains my no smoke/lean condition/air leak on the left cylinder. Must have rattled out? This is where I am at, waiting to hear from my buddy who has a couple Shee's, he might have a slide stop screw. But what do you think would cause the raw fuel in exhaust when the float valve is not stuck? And why would it be flooding out today? Kinda strange how it was lean last time I ran it, and now it wont start cuz its flooding out......

By fresh motor, I meant I split the cases, refreshed the trans bearings and seals, all crank case seals. Fresh top end with a complete Cometic gasket kit. All new carb parts, gaskets, jets, seals, screws. New o ring kit on the ADA cool head. Ill check for air leaks around the boots, might be a good place to start. I hope its not a crank seal, or a leaky case......... As far as you guys saying the carbs arent synched, do you mean the slide stop screws?

Just finished my complete rebuild about a month ago. I havent had much time to ride, and have ridden on the street a little bit trying to break the motor in. Havent even hit powerband yet. I had the bike out yesterday, and just ran it around low rpms for a little bit. When I pulled back in my driveway, i noticed almost zero smoke out of the left side pipe. Heres some quick stats: 360 mains 30 pilots B8ES plugs 103 Octane MTBE fuel (Up here in the NE all we have at the pump is ethanol fuels, I refuse to run them, so this is my only other option, $7.95 a gal!) Castor 927 2 stroke oil Both mixture screws out 2.5 turns Both slide stops set same distance out 21cc Domes in cool head Any quick thoughts? Edit: 32:1 Premix ratio, Sea level to 300' elevation at all riding areas.

I checked some older posts. Everyone refers to http://www.roostfest.com/cages.htm, which is no longer a working link. Anyone else happen to have saved the pics to their pc?

Topic says it all. I have a feeling my pipes are holding my motor back a little bit, and will be buying new pipes soon. I also figured I could breathe a little deeper on the intake side of things. I have Vitos Stage 2 carbon flex reeds on stock cages with billet spacers. Just curious to see what/where gets ported on the cages.

I am not sure how much of a gain you will get. I have repowered outboard motors at work with larger bore higher compression pistons (Large displacement V6 2 strokers), and the power gains are minimal. On these larger engines, a bore and compression change are lucky to net 30-40 horse. And that is on a much larger scale to start with. And if you think about it on a smaller scale like our tiny twin two strokers, you may gain a few (4-6) with a larger bore and compression bump. As far as what CC dome to run for different elevations, I am not too sure. I would have to guess at it, where as I am sure someone else can chime in that knows for sure. Once again, all the motors I work on are ON sea level, so the only jetting/compression changes I have are for weather changes, not elevation.

Sticky slides, sticky cable. Could be a number of things. Try and disconnect the throttle cable at the thumb lever and see if it still hangs when you rev it. Usually though when an engine is revved, and the throttle seems to hang, or not drop down immediately, it is usually too lean. Carbs could have gummed up a little in the idle circuit. A dirty idle circuit will cause a 'racing' idle. Try your mixture screws, open them up a little, if the problem goes away, or gets better, idle circuit is most likely dirty. Start with the easy stuff first.

Can you get it to act up while in neutral just revving it up? If so, take your air box off, and when you rev it up look to see if it is popping back through the carb(s). If so, I would take them off and clean them out real well, and also take the reeds out while the carbs are off. A broken or cracked reed will make the engine pop through the carbs. This is a good starting point, and easier than troubleshooting electrical. Try that first. Also, when I am at work, the first thing I do with an engine that is acting up is a compression test. I hate to go through troubleshooting when I am working with an engine that has bad/low compression.

Im not sure what you meant by ".5". Neither am I familiar with Banshee electrical testing, but electrical testing I am familiar with. What test does this call for? Continuity? Peak volts? But if the test you read says that .5 is out of range, it could cause intermittent or no spark.

One hose from the clutch cover side goes to the T, the other breather below the rear motor mount goes the the T. The last spot on the T goes up and over the motor and should be zip tied up near where all the cables and harnesses go under the steering stem. These hoses are only there relieve any pressure that could be built up inside the cases. Sort of like a PCV system on a car. And make sure to zip tie or clamp the hose under the rear motor mount, not good if it comes off. Makes a mess if you stand the bike up in the back of a truck.............

Thanks for the replies! Kinda late to have it welded.... already installed and completely rebuilt the bike. Its up and running now. So I guess it will stay until the next rebuild...........

I bought and rebuilt my Banshee from a buddy of mine. He told me the crank was replaced with an RZ350 crank. His original was beyond repair. What is the difference (good or bad) from the Banshee crank? I know the Banshee crank has a tendency to come apart in stock form; does the RZ crank do the same? Any and all help is appreciated.