Yaxy

Yes guys, it is unfortunate that this happened. Like everything else in this world you get a good one or a bad one. Chris

As some of you know i am not the type of person that critisizes or downgrades. Like many, I have tried many products and have various opinions on the value and results of these products. Unfortunately, over my 19 years of owning my banshee and probabably 25,000 miles on the seat I have had little to bitch about till now. Two years back during my preventative maintance cycle I decided it was time to replace my trouble free original crank with 20,000 + miles on her with a new one. The choices were pay $800.00 for a factory or $400.00 for a Hot Rods. I personally have never purchased any Wiseco products just cause many people I know have always seemed to have issues with them. So with this and the cost factor in mind I decided to give the Hot Rods a try. I ordered the crank from a reputable builder on the site, had her trued and welded and got ready for many worry free years of riding, well at least I thought. Well after about 1500 miles and two years of riding I found out today that I had a bad rod bearing that prematurely took out a cylinder also. Well in my mind I am thnking 17 years on a stock yamaha crank and 2 years on a Wiseco that experienced the exact same riding with no additional mods. For those who have seen my shee and my RZ shee you know how maticulous my quads are kept. This just pissed me off that if I decided to run this motor one more year I would have probably seen my FIRST motor blow since I bought the quad in 1990. I have absolutely no reason to think that there was any other factor that could have caused the rod failure to happen other than poor quality. I know many ofyou have had good luck with there products and it's just unfortunate I didn't. I guess my now 19 years old factory crank is going back in. Chris

Thanks Jared, I will look into that. Chris

Guys, I am currently running the stock needle (5DP39) on my RZshee with 28 FS Mikuni carbs. I am looking for a different taper needle that will reduce the amount of fuel off idle to about 1/2 throttle. I have adjusted the clip to postion 2 and I may move to position 1. This is an option but I am looking for suggestions on who I may be able to talk to to investigate this further. I have contacted a company who is looking further into this but at first glance there wasn't any luck. The bike runs fine the way it is and I am just looking to fine tune. With these carbs there is only one choice of throttle valve and I think there is only one size needle jet. Current low speed jetting 15 pilot jet: moving to a 17.5. With a 15 I need to have the air screws in all the way. Thanks for your time. Chris

Thanks, I have been shopping on e-bay and there are some OEM's out there. Chris

During teardown this winter I noticed that my stator and flywheel have been exposed to severe corrsion. My present stator lasted 19 years so and I am bias to the Yamaha brand because of it. However, the Yamaha wants an arm and a leg for a new one so I am leaning towards aftermarket. I have read several posts on here and it seems to be more cons than pros with going aftermarket. It appears that the two most common stators are Ricky and RM Stator. Are there any other choices that I should consider? Thanks for your input. Chris

Alright guys I guess I can chime in here. As some of you know I have a RZ shee in which I made my own flanges. Over the past year I have been asked to make some and have been dragging my feet. I have enough spigots already cut and and plates with holes in them for 5 sets. the only thing I have left is to weld is the spigots/eyelit to the plate, shape the plate to the gasket and drill the two holes to mount to the cylinder. I will talk to my welding pal this week to see if I can get these welded up soon. As far as angle goes, I recall that the left cylinder angles inward which means when you weld the spigot in you need to angle the spigot towards the outside of the frame just a tad. For both cylinders the spigots should also be angled upwards but not much. For those of you who would like to borrow one send me a PM. I am more than happy to let someone borrow one but here is the deal: - You pay for shipping - I receive a $25 deposit that I will refund when I get it back. If you have any questions let me know. I do not visit the site everyday so please be patient. Chris

I am not aware of anyone else that makes them but Pro-design. Is there a specific reason why you are asking? Chris

Are the rims painted or bare aluminum. Also is this for front and rear rims? Thanks Chris

If there is any doubt on the CDI I am sure that Dynatech would be more than happy to test it for you. Dynatech is a great company to buy from and will treat you well. Chris

Thanks, I did a little research last nite on the Scott's/Ohlin Stabilizer and I heard all good things. Now I just have to find the best price. Chris

I have been contemplating if a steering stabilier would be a good upgrade for my quad. I have never thought of using one before but a friend of mine just put one on his bomb and loves it. I mostly ride seasonal roads that have numerous rocks, ruts, tree roots, bumps off cambers,hills etc. on average 50 - 60 mph. I have all the necessary upgardes such as shocks and a-arms but wondering if i invested in a stearing stabliler, if the ride would be that much better. I would probably buy one of the elka/ohlin ones that have the adjustment but am looking for valuble input from those who have used one. Thanks chris

There is a window on each carb and on the slide there is spot/indentation that needs to line up with this window when the slide is installed. Once you look at the carb slides and find this mark and then look at where the carb window is it is pretty self explanatory which slide goes where. Chris

Jetting can be funny. Like yourself I have two shees with incsonsistant jetting. Both quads have same porting 28 FS milkuni,s v-force, heads, yada yada RZ shee with Rockets #15 pilot 340 Main Shee with FMF #20 pilots 290 Main. Both quads with this jetting have exceptional low end and throttle response!!! To he honest if Mikuni made a #17.5 pilot it would be installed in both bikes Ok, Lets think about this. Q1 Are carbs in sync? Are the correct slides in the right carb? If not do this first!!!!! Do cables first then idle screws Q2 When quad starts does it idle smoothly? or spit and sputter and foul plugs? If idels rough turn air screw out 2 turns, If better your pilot may be to rich, but see Q3 first. Q3. If idle seems ok do this. Drive around in 2nd gear and almost bring quad to a stall, and apply fully throttle. If goes BLAAH turn in air screws all the way. Repeat test if you get the BLAAH again your pilot is to lean or you may have your needle clip pos to lean. If the BLAAH is gone you most likely have the correct pilot. Turn air screws to one turn out then you ok. Don't be alarmed due to jet sizes, every motor is different and reacts different to mods. Chris

Allright, I had to chime in here. Yes the RZ conversion is worth it, the RZ tranny is better than the she's (Smoother), the RZ gearing is fine, and there is a better pipe then the Rockets and the PTR's, just unfortunately there are limited numbers right now but will soon change. Other than the Oil injection you will have to buy a little plug for the top of the case where the tach contraption used to be. You can buy this right from Yamaha. As far as porting goes for $400 I would send it to Patriot Racing or Passion Racing. From what I have seen there are a very few builders that have experience with the RZ other then these two, and they both know ther stuff. The electronics at first were difficult but if you take your time and do it right it is prettly simple. There is a thread on here I think called "RZ gods" that could act as your template. If you need photos and assistance on this let me know. I have many photos of my set up. As far as carb set up, I am partial to Mikuni 28 FS. I mostly seasonal road ride and ride trails, and these carbs are cheap to buy $200 new and you can still use your airbox which is a big plus in dusty situations. As a heads up the 28 FS are very finicky/sensitive but are very easy to tune and you see results. If you plan on doing a lot of drag racing buy bigger carbs, but the stock 26's are actually very good carbs for trail applications and would work fine for your set up unless you choose other wise. In you answer to your other question teh RZ motor fits right in the shee frame with no mods. Oh yeah you will need to make or buy exhasut flanges since the RZ are not permanent and bolts onto the cylinder. Chris

Dan is a good guy, but has a lot going on. Like previously posted, it usually takes him a bit to get back to you, and you may have to try again. But he is very knowledgable and will treat you well. Chris

Agree BennBB, It's all about being different, But really, I am very impressed with the RZ motor. It has great power everywhere and is very universal in what you can do with it. Chris

You will have alot of fun with the RZ project. The best thing is that most people will never know you have any RZ packed in there. To this day everyone who checks out my quad has no idea what's packing, I have to tell them. As far as some of the feedback contained herein I agree with most of it. The RZ is a very rideable powerplant that has more bottom and top end then a conventional shee motor. One thing that still is a mystery to me is peoples perspective on the power delivery. Most say that the power delivery is very smooth??? I unfortunately didagree. I have about 400 miles on my RZ quad over the past year and this thing absolutely rips the tires loose when you crack the throttle. It can be smooth if you want it but if you ride a shee like most people you will go through a set of rear tires in a hurry. It does have a light switch power band just with more torque down low. Chris

Thanks RZBansheeMan for the clarification and the offer for the port maps. That would be interesting to see the differences. It was my understanding that they were the same. If you would like, send me a PM and I will send you my e-mail address. Also, last year I bought a cool head for the RZ from Pro design. Give them a call and talk to Tom. I am sure they are still made. Chris

Good description RZbanasheeman, you hit it on the head. To just add a tid bit. The only two RZ builders on the HQ that I am aware of is Dan at Patriot and Jim at Passion and they both are excellent. As I recall, the stock intake and transfers are the same with both motors. The difference lies in the height of the exhaust port. The RZ from the factory is 2-3mm higher giving it more of a drag port set up at wide open throttle, yet still maintaining bottom end due to the powervalves. As far as pipes I am not sure if the name R2 has been finalized yet. if you have time wait for the R2???'s I have tested them and they work exceptionally well. Chris

I currently run LSR's on one quad and Quicksands on the other quad. Both sets are fully adjustable on the top and bottom arm. I have had the LSR's on my one quad for about 12 years and never had a problem. The ball joints are original, have grease fittings and have alot of abuse!!!. They have the black sivlervein I guess, and after all these years the paint is excellent. On these you had to ream the spindles and am not sure if this is still the same on the new ones. Last year, like yuosrself, I was shopping for arms and alot of people talk about Quicksand Arms. At that time for the full race arms they were about $200 cheaper than the LSR' so I went that route. Gary's arm's use aerospace quality heim joints, which are supposed to be at the min 2x stronger than ball joints and require no reaming of the spindles. When they arrive last summer they looked awesome with a nice powdercoat finish. After a year the only thing I would like to see improved is the powedercoat. You can't go wrong with either. Chris

BRP who makes the Evinrude engine is keeping two strokes alive. For those who ride sleds the Ski-doo's 600's and 800's all meet emissions above an beyond most of there 4-stroke counter parts. In the sled world the only key player in 4-stokes is Yamaha and they are doing a great job in pushing there brand. Ski-doo, Arctic Cat and Polaris are puttin R&D into this 2-stroke technology and at least in the sled world I do not see this going away. High HP = 2-stroke!! and the sled guys thrive on that. Chris

The stock pipes will work fine, but like on the shee they are very restictive. Last time I checked the PTR's here in the states were between $700-$800 chromed. If you can get a new set for $500 I think that is pretty good. If you can wait a few months I would wait to buy the new pipe that is coming out. It works great on the RZ. I am sure there is a huge waiting list but if you interested send me a PM and I will get you the phone number. Chris

Stock, PTR's and Rockets are the only pipes at this time that will fit the RZ conversion without inflicting dents. If you have time there is a new pipe coming that will clear and works great. Chris

ken, Do you mean 320? There is no way you should be running a 520 jet. Sleds with twice the displacement at much cooler temps don't approach that. If anything try a 340 or 350. If that is still to lean you have problems elsewhere. Chris