boonman

Uncontrollable revving, especially when the carbs are at an idle position, almost always indicates an air leak. Do NOT run this motor any longer or you are risking SERIOUS engine failure. It will cost you $$$ and I am sure you don't want that. I don't have a link, but do a search on a leakdown test, and you will find some info on it. That is what you need to do to find out which side is the culprit here...

Cheap mods, well, you can shave the head, $50. Lighten the flywheel, $65. Mod the shift star, $28. All cheap, and will make the bike feel like a completely different animal. You could also go for shocks, or some new tires, or a new chain, or a pro-flow plate if you don't have one already.

I don't know. I have never CC'ed a head before and after. Never wanted to. Next one I do, I will CC it for ya.....

I do. Ever haul anything remotely large? Anything low to the ground? Also, the auction states that it gives a free USED spare tire. USED. Know what that means? Did you lok at their site? They get junk tires to sell with the trailer. So, you have to factor in the cost of 4 new tires, and a new spare, unless you want to trust a used POS one. I know I wouldn't want to trust it. And at 3,000#, or close to it, you shouldn't need trailer brakes. However, they always make things alittle easier. And one axle with brakes would be plenty for a quad trailer. However, I know that trailers get over loaded SEVERELY. Unsafe practice.

I am not positive, but your speakers may be dual voice coils. In which case, you could wire the coils on each speaker in series, and get an 8 ohm load shown to the receiver. if not, and they are Single Voice coil, than you can just wire both speakers in series and be all set. However, you would only be able to run one chanel, either Left or Right to the box. if the speakers are DVC, than you can use both channels. A crossover, as Stoy explained, seperates the sound frequencies. Subwoofers typically handle anywhere from about 20-120 Hz, and you need to feed it only those signals. home speaker boxes, (that you would buy in the store) are internally crossed over. This is why you don't hear the soft muffled garbage that you are now hearing from your car speakers from a home speaker setup.

Click HERE Don't know if that will work, I will edit if it don't. Anyways, get #25, $37.94 the choke plunger assembly, and be sure your float bowl has the brass tube in it. The left carb, (the one with the plunger) has 2 tubes in the carb. One for overflow, and one for the choke to draw fuel.

I keep hearing that you can't make a stereo system sound good running speakers off the head unit. Well, you can, I have done it many times. You have to know your shit, but it can be done. not if you are going to competition, but if you are going to competition, you wouldn't be asking stereo questions on Bansheehq.com. I can guarantee you that you can sit in my rig with ALL my mids and tweets running off the head unit, and you wouldn't know the difference. I am NOT saying that an amp won't make things possibly better, but you would have to have a better speaker. I don't understand the concept of a shitty speaker getting an amp thrown on it and having it sound better. not likely. I am sure someone is gonna tell me about his friends brothers cousins sisters boyfriends car that had some audiovox speakers in his crapmaro and he threw a Boss 12,000,000 watt amp on it with his sparkomatic head unit pumpin out his favorite Guns and Roses tape and man that shit was oh so sweet sounding. I just don't buy it. Also, you have to have a clean signal. As clean as you can afford. There is a stereo for every budget, and it can be made to sound good provided you spend your hard earned $$$ in the right places.

Didn't someone already go through this?

Hrmmmm. I just went in through mIrc. Not a problem... I don't use links...

I would run it!!!!!!

I'm doin it!!!!!!!! Bonneville flats, here I come..

Just checked it. It's still there....

Choke isn't functioning properly. I let my bike sit for months on end. Throw some fresh fuel in the tank, hop on, and it fires right up, no matter whqat the weather.,.....

I have a relatively new set of Skat Trak Xtreme hauler 20-10-10 8 paddle on Douglas Blue labels. Make me an offer...... They are mint.

So, with your the new twin air will fall out. Do they even make twin air filters for a shee? In order to take the lid off, you need to have a pro-flow plate or other device to clamp the filter to. The lid holds the factory filter setup in place. it is junk anyways, replace it immediately.

No need to mess with anything. Run the piss out of it. You already burnt the top end up!!!!! Pull the head. I bet you find something you don't like.... 10 to 1 you smoked the top end. Putting on pipes and leaving the jetting stock will kill the motor ridiculously fast. I am surprised it lasted even that long. You must not have been riding very hard..

Nice find!! Explains it well!!!

WHY???????? They are the same bike, every year.........

Could be a weak stator, but i am thinking it has something to do with the choke circuit. Clean the carbs, and see where you get from there..... pulling it does create more vacuum due to the higher RPM, and this would pull a little more fuel from the jet. However, I don't think the stiff reed theory will hold any water. I don't see that happening. If it cracked off, that would be a different story....

What kind of bull shit is that? You DON'T jet your carbs to what oil ratio you are using. You jet it according to plug readings, and how much air your motor can pull in and get out. What you stated here: is true to a "t", however, I have never seen anyone take a jump in their oil ratio mix large enough to warrant a jetting change. While it is a good idea to check your jetting with ay sort of change from the norm, be it temperature, or modification(s) or a fuel change, or elevation change. You still do not base a jetting decision on what type of oil and what mix you run. That is just pure nonsense. I have NEVER heard someone say, "Oh, you are mixing at 40:1, so you should be running a 290 main jet!" Just doesn't happen. You check your plugs and jet the bike accordingly. I could see if you were switching from 20:1 to 100:1. But going from 32:1 from 40:1 I would say would almost NEVER require a jetting chhange. And Wizard, it sounds like you either have too rich of jetting, or your top end is unhealthy. What mods do you have? 35's are wicked big to be running on anything short of a drag bike. I would jet leaner and check the plugs..

It depends on what the outside temp is. I have never had my shee overheat when breaking in a new top end. Temp was about 70 degrees outside. I have let it idle for extended periods in temps at 90 degrees.... Not a problem. Put a temp guage in. You will know when it is close...

Sounds to me like the choke circuit isn't working? Anybody been tinkering with the carbs? Could have switched the float bowls. Or, the pilot jet could be clogged. Does it idle once it starts?

WTF is an "outerframe", and what is a "good" set as opposed to a "bad" set???

Click HERE for a writeup on this amazing device. I have used the amp link since I've had my bike. I wouldn't ride without one. I am getting rid of mine, because I will be strictly drag racing....

I would stay with stock carbs. They will be the best for your motor. You are runnign the exact same setup as my bike. Minus the pipes. Same jetting specs though. I really don't think you would benefit from aftermarket carbs. Your stockers are the best bang for the buck. They are already there!!!!! And they will work fine. But, when the time comes, I have a set of Mikuni 30's that I will part with if you must have them.....