boonman

WTF is wrong with you????

It took me about 3 hours to go get the material, and load/unload it all. It took about 4 hours to cut the frame material and weld it all together. It took about another hour or so to get the fram home and into the garage and cleaned up. it took about an hour to get the plate on top of the frame and bolted down half assed. It took another hour to paint it. I still have to bolt it down completely and get the bottom plate on. Keep in mind this was all done by myself, and the finishing of it, (mounting the plate and painting) was done while I had a wicked sinus infection/bronchitis and was constantly damn near passing out. Could have been all the kerosene fumes as well..... It was perty cold outside.... Well, depending on what you like, You could do it several different ways. I myself do not like having a pussy ass workbench. When I clamp something in a vice, (yet to be installed!!) I do not want the bench moving all around. That's why I am anchoring it to the floor. Also, wood framed work benches, while they are cheap, SUCK. Wood flexes. That's why I built the frame from steel. I used 2x2x.125 wall tubing for the top, and .0625 wall for the legs and bottom framework. I just checked our last P.O. at the shop, and 288' of 2x2x.125 wall tubing was $267 delivered. That's less than a dollar a foot. I used I think about 35' of material. That's a cheap frame. You could spend that in wood and screws alone... And the sheer strength of a steel frame is well worth the extra cost. On the top plate Stan, I would not go less than 1/8" thick. I would think that 1/8" would be stout enough, but I would rather see some 3/16" in there. My 3/8" is wicked overkill, but, hey, it's free. I checked out alot of people's benches in various shops, and found them all to be from 1.5'-3' wide. The material I got just happened to be about 2'. It is a realy nice, manageable width. I would have liked to have about a 2.5' wide though. I wouldn't go over 8' long, unless you have a long wall to put it on. A backdrop is nice to have, unless this bench will be in the middle of a floor and getting used from all sides. Sometimes, shit rolls off the back of the banch, and pisses you off. So, a backdrop is useful to prevent such occurences, and what not. Also provides a nice place to mount some outlets...... 6'-8' is a perfect length. I went 8'. Looks like it is gonna be right fine.

Well, I kind of got a handle on the workbench situation. I am pretty stoked. Here's the specs. Top height is 36", and it is 23.5"x94" long. it will have a 14" backdrop, and I haven't installed the middle shelf. The top piece is 3/8" thick 304 stainless. Best part is, I got it all for free!!!!!! I used 2"x2" mechanical tubing to make up the frame. The hex bolts that currently hold it down will be replaced with stainless steel Flathead cap screws. The bottom shelf will have a 23.5"x48" piece of 3/8" plate bolted in place as well. Same as the top. I brushed some good ol' Rust oleum satin black paint on it, and she looks stellar. it will be ancchored to the floor. I have a bunch more stainless plates that I will be making into workbenches in the future. Hopefully I will have enough room in the new shop for them.... Here's some pics.. DOn't mind the ridiculous mess in the garage...... In the background you can see the small block blazer that is currently waiting for me to rebuild the drivetrain. Which was the primary need for the new workbench in a hurry. I have to rebuild the tranny, and nowhere to lay it out.... In front of it, is the smaller stainless plate. Hopefully, the new shee drag motor will be next in line to go up on the new surface!!!! Man, simple things excite me these days.....

that it either has lost compression due to a blown head gasket, or it is sucking tranny oil and fouling out. Prolly running on one cylinder. Smell is very important on the right side. What does the plug look like? And yes, they do sell compresison testers at Harbor freight, but do NOT get one there. Pony up the extra $$ and get a good one. Mine cost me a bundle, but I trust it very highly..

I own 2 chevy's. Hate both of them. I own 1 Dodge. Love it. I would love to run over the wife's ford, but she would disaprove of that... And I was only kiddin' with ya Jethro!!

Ebay or your local stealership..

.025" and you will still be able to run pump fuel..

What does the smoke smell like? Is it a horrid smell? My first guess with a cool head is an oring blowout. If the smoke smells like shit, than you blew a crank seal. What is the compression? Also, are you loosing coolant? Is the cooling system building pressure? Are you losing tranny oil?

Cut the entire exhaust off. You don't even need manifolds on a Ford. You shouldn't notice any power loss, Ferds lack in power anyways..... Yes, it may be loud, but who cares? It's a Ford....

I should move this post to the roostin' room for the reply I want to post here. However, I will just refrain from a few things. Now, why in the hell do people come here asking questions, and people reply, and they don't try anything that the f$%^&*# people suggest to look at and/or try? Pisses me off that y'all get the replies and answers, and yet REFUSE to take them to heart and look at some of the things suggested. Perfect example right here in this thread. in the third post in this thread Could have switched the float bowls???? Ring any bells here? I am willing to bet that this is the problem with the hard to start issue. Next reply: Now, this answers the idling question, meaning that the pilots aren't clogged. BEcause if they were, the bike would not idle properly, due to the lack of fuel at idle. Anyways, MO states he has gnarly pipes, and the carbs are bone stock and NOONE has touched them. Well, if noone has touched them and they are bone stock, then guess what man, your top end is smoked. BONE STOCK tell me BONE STOCK jetting. Which = smoked top end when running stock jetting with pipes. Now, I know you will reply and tell me that the bike has been rejetted. Well, that would mean that the carbs are not stock, and some one has "touched" them leaving the possibility that the bowls have been switched. Listen a little and try shit instead of bench fixing your bike. By asking a zillion questions, and not trying any of the replies your bike will not magically fix itself. Hypothetically, it could be ALOT of things. YOU have to narrow things down by the process of elimination. Try it. It's an age old process, tried and true. It invloves, WRENCH TIME. Which equals time in the garage, or wherever you work on your bike in which you actually work on it. Yep, work on it. This may be difficult to understand, but is a necessity in order to alleviate the problem. SO, ask the questions, get the replies, and look into the problem. try things. It's not too hard and I assume that you plan on working on the bike yourself because you are here taking the time to find out some suggestions. However, what good are the suggestions if you don't try any of them?

I don't understand why you would want to go with CPI pipes and a single carb? Odd?? The CPI pipes won't hurt you, but they are a top end pipe, that would work better on a ported bike. I don't know what type of riding you do, but that would help determine your pipe selection. Now, I would suggest getting your bike ported ASAP if you plan on it in the future. When you port, it is almost always necessary to bore right after. if you waste too many bores, than you will be ass out when you finally do decide to port it. Wiseco pistons IMO are the best to go with. You will get varying opinions on this, so make your decision after you hear what you want to hear.

Don't be disappointed chief. As soon as the HQ starts hostin pics, the site will slow down. So, you host them on other sites, and keep the HQ clear of all that. Hosting on another site isn't hard at all. I use imagestation, but there are others. It is a simple task. ABout as simple as it gets. Then, all you do is cut and paste the link into your reply, ad highlight it, and click the "IMG" button. Done. Pic is in there.

Not for banshee pilots. I still don't know of anyone that has gotten BANSHEE stock carb pilots for under $5 ea. I checked out that pro-flo place, Nowhere did they have Banshee specific pilots advertized. I think some of y'all lose sight that the pilot jets in a stock banshee carb, are specific to those carbs. You can't use a regular mikuni pilot jet in a banshee carb. It has to be for a banshee carb. And That is nonsense. Man jsts should be no more than $2. And they should never cost more than a pilot. Not on a stock banshee carb,

Big waste of money?? You ever been to garden tractor pulls? I have seen some cool shit there. I have never seen tractor drags, but that could be interesting... The money people sink into them things is outrageous. My lawnmower couldn't hold a candle to that thing. Even though it is badass for a lawnmower.

You have got to be kidding me.

Who put the lowering kit in that sled for ya???

Y'all and the ring tones. LMAO!!!! I think I am in the stone age. My cell phone is larger than my cordless phone at home!!! It is the one that you have to carry tha case on the shoulder strap, and have a car battery in the red wagon behind you to run it and set up a small tower with a 6 pole antenna just to get some reception. Just kidding, anyways, I still have an age old, tried and true Motorola Startac . What can I say. I have seen startac's go to the bottom of lake Erie. and we swam down and got it, and let it dry out. Still works to this day. I lost mine on the ski hill, it got found a week later. I changed the battery, thawed it out, and she works beautifully. Unfortunately, I had already got another phone. So now I have 2 startacs. With two of them, I should be set for life!!!!

Stop worrying about wheelies and get out there and ride.

Do it now. I did mine in the middle of summer. It sucks...

I'm gonna start mass producing brass reed buttons. I have a new spec on them that go perfectly with the lavender powerband. (The best known powerband to date, although it is a high secret amongst the fastest racers). I will have some ready for purchase after christmas. I don't see why I wouldn't be able to sell them. I mean I sold an empty can of Sierra mist for $1.25 on Ebay once. Anyways, When instaling the alleged reed buttons, one must be careful to install them in conjunction with brand new powerbands to insure that the band doesn't slip on takeoff. If it does, you will upset the telepetry of the motor, and blow a piston through the head.

400 ponies, I have that in my S-10!!!

HOLY SHIT!!!!!!! I'm gonna start buyin and sellin'!!!!!!!!! I'll make a killing!!!!!!

About $3500 or so....

This is true. And when trailering, You had better be within spec, or when they "DOT" your ass, you will be a sitting duck untill you rectify the situation. they will NOT let an unsafe load continue down the road.

I want pics!!!!!!!!!