lowriderb

just like the title says, im wanting a few 530 sprockets 40 rear 15 16 and 17 fronts. thanks B

that was with the motor already tac'd up though, try it from a stop like what cam was saying. the plenum/air box what ever you want to call it will give the air somewhere to compress to till the motor can take it in and it will give your motor something to pull from for a second till the turbo spools up.

what did the turbo come from? any other information on it like the a/r for it and all? you may also need to fab up a defuser box for it so it will flow evenly into the intakes.

im just guessing but it maybe because of the dual head pipes. ill look more into it but for some reason i remember being told it slowed the velocity down going to the turbo. what size is the tubing going to the turbo from the head pipes also?

80 for the pair of tires or a piece? thanks

if your looking to keep it fully suspended, yes you can use a r1 rear shock and 300ex fronts. that will keep the bike fully suspended and lower it down at the same time. the r1 shock youll just have to drill one of the bushings out to fit the bolt through it and it will be done.

1-6 full override with neutral down.

check and see if either shafts are bent, and check the forks and see if you have any wear.

what primary gears are you running? and what axle, with what sprocket hub (banshee/honda), what size tires? stock primaries, i think people are running like 18/39-40, 2.81 primaries would be like a 17/39-40, 2.63/2.36 primaries would be different ext that would also depend on the sprocket hub if you have a drag axle with a honda hub you can get down to like a 33 rear sprocket. the tire sizes would probably be a 20x8x10 tire i would guess, but there are tall and shorter tires out there too..

i forget which line was oxygenated either way i dont think either made any difference on the dyno. kinda like the same as "nitrogen enriched" fuels, nitrogen is a insoluble, inert, non-condensable gas. bubbling it through a process stream does nothing for you at the pump.. and its the same as people that will only buy one kind of gas online brand.. ill give you a hint their all the same and its just the additives that are different.

higher octane fuels burn slower in the combustion chamber. with lower octane fuels in higher compression situations you will have the burn happen too fast and it will detonate. with too much octane and a lower compression situation the burn will be slower and will not burn completely before its sent out of the motor and then just wasting your money just to say your running a certain type of fuel. with only a 165psi of cold compression i would think harder about what fuel i was runing and when or if he brings it to a place to tune it on a dyno try it on different fuels to see what would make more power without detonation. you may be surprised at what you find out.

if it were mine and i was trying to get the most out of it, i would run the lowest octane fuel i can get away with. as for someone to dyno your bike you have to give people your location so we would be able to point you in a direction to travel to..

i was just wanting to put out that there is supposed to be a little midnight madness race at no problem, i will be there with a few of my friends for some good heads up racing. 1/8th mile asphalt of course..

i would imagine they would fit, thats just the body styles i know it will fit for sure. also it is 61 1/2 inches long

i'll get some measurements on it when i get back home today. 87, you could buy this and then upgrade the truck?? lol jk.

im selling this brand new steel roll pan i bought for my full size. im asking 100+shipping (or i could meet with you if closer by). the item is located in laplace la 70068. it has not been primed or painted and will fit 99-06 straight bed chevy silverado's and i think gmc sierra's also (youd have to make sure of that one first). it has a light that comes with it to bolt in over the plate. pm me or email me if you have any questions. thanks

just a mattoon lock up clutch system and a 520 hd chain.. the 530's will be considered if i break one when i get the little motor on the dyno. with the 20 my friend is building it will be a 530 for sure.

off topic but, im going to start at 20psi and work my way up from there.. going from the other two bikes ive seen in the same motor size range 24psi should hit 200 range, after that is just extra for me though the turbo should be good on up to about 32psi according to garret. this is going to be on my motor later on putting the nitrous back on it. the other motor is still waiting for the custom pipe to be built for it and the turbo to be shipped from garret. it will be a 20mm dmx and we are expecting a lot more power out of it and will take a billet trans.

not any more, a turbo this time..

take it for what its worth, i would do it now before its broke and possibly ruining the rest of the trans. or roll the dice and hope for the best. i put one in my 10mm and am now putting a billet output shaft on there as well as having a 1-6 trans. for asphalt. im only doing the output shaft because im expecting about 200hp out of my 10mm and dont want to take any chances..

are your prices shipped? how old is the crank?

it all depends, ive seen stock stroke bikes break 2nd gear and then ive seen bigger motors last on the stock 2nd gears. if your motor is apart now i would go with it. the 2nd gears are like .07 wider than stock ones so you will have to cut a new groove for the clip too.

what ignition are you running? a stock one? if so the 12mm had its set at like +6 or 7 advanced. the stock cdi will retard the timing as you increase in rpm's..

are you talking about making a different ratio water pump gear for the crank and whats on the water pump? the primary gears for the crank to clutch dont really make that much of a difference on those.

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