Atomic Monkey

I saw those as I was browsing around... too bad they're sizes for 35mm on up. Like Tricked said, FAST has some that look like they'd work well.

DC power for the HIDs

Just got the pistons in. Getting the cylinders bored this week, and while that's getting done the trans will be out getting the Pro Mod. Still waiting on the crank, should be here Monday, but figure in less than 2 weeks we should have numbers with 0.020" gaskets and stock ports.

I'm looking for intakes that will match up the best with VF4s using 34mm carbs, and still retain the crossover tube. I was looking at Upp, but want some opinions on what works the best, thanks!

Well I'm sending it to Cam for the Pro Mod, I want it to shift like butter!

Try using the frame. It might just be a problem for people using dual output stators running both AC and DC circuits, and using the frame for the AC ground while floating the ground for the DC side.

If you're going strictly DC, you don't need to worry about any of the AC stuff I mentioned. Do you have a dual output stator?

Thanks John! I'm looking into the pro modded trans, what's all involved with that? I have the pancake bearing and went through the clutch last summer after a ball weld. I also ordered up a seal set, and will get a billet impeller. I'm also working on porting the cylinders, and have a set of those new Wiseco Ultra Stroker pistons ordered.

Going to be replacing my crank soon, and going to be case matching to my cylinders. What else should I do while the cases are apart?

I guess I should've asked if you're still going to be running an AC regulated circuit? Now that I reread your post, feeding the switch DC+ will be fine, disregard the AC relay, and use the DC like you originally stated. Lol, I'm running both AC and DC circuits on mine, and had to use the AC relays... sorry bout that.

If I remember correctly you will need to run a seperate ground for the DC circuits. If that's not done it will affect the output of the regulator/rectifier. If you look it up there's a whole explanation why. For your headlights, use an AC 12v relay to switch the DC load.

"Y'all sound like a bunch of Kansas City faggots!"

What in the "wide wide world of sports isa' goin' on here!?"

Well we're going to see how this goes... just ordered a set of 'em at 65mm.

"Years of research"... nothing to do with Wiseco or Yamaha, its all about the builders.

I'm going to try these... not because I care about the windows in the piston, but because they're new, and leave some room to work the learning curve. I really don't expect them to beat out years of research, and as an end result domes will still need to be cut... but they leave a little room to experiment with. The thing that occurs to me about windows in the piston is; as the solid part of the skirt passes the intake it blocks the flow for a split second. With my limited experience, I'm not certain what that does, but while I work through my first time porting project, I've worked on the "Boyesen Ports" and have made them as large as seems appropriate. I'm still on a learning curve and not claiming what I'm doing is right or ideal... its all for the experience. Oh, and I hope it works out and I'm happy with it!

From the measurements I got off my cylinders, it looks like the transfers only need to be dropped roughly 1mm to have the port floors line up with the top of the piston. I got that # going 57mm in from the top.

I'm going to take some measurements today. If it works out, I'm going to give these things a shot. Just want to know where the transfer port floors are going to be to match the piston.

I'm going with the long rod and buying a new crank. So I'll have to come up with different #s for the port timings. I just read a tread about those new Wiseco ultra stroker pistons, the ones built around the long rod 4mm. Interesting... its got me thinking, but not sure if I like the idea of dropping the pistons that deep in the bore, and what it'll do for the port timings. I imagine it effectively "raises" all the ports, and brings the timings closer to stock. Just don't know how well that will work with the extra stroke. And then if a person drops the port floors to the piston, will it kill velocity with the bigger windows.

Still need a plug for the stator? Got one on a stator that the lighting coil pooped out on occasionally.

Got the red radiator surround, and gas tank plastics. Looking for white with the grey surround. Pm if you're interested in a purchase or trade

Ok... so this has turned into a complete redo. The frame is getting stipped and powder coated "gun metal grey", the A-Arms and swing arm are getting powder coated silver, and all the brackets are getting coated black. White plastics are on the way. A new long rod crank, and cylinder bore are in the quoting process. There is some more porting to be done, and in addition to the exhaust ports themselves... the pipes have some edges that can be worked. Then there's the transmission... whole new curve in the learning process.

Found a kick ass example for the back... aside from the columns...

If you watch the vid and read the comments, there's one that says everyone at BansheeHQ says that's normall! Lol!

How about doing it up like a concert shirt? On the back do BansheeHQ in big letters, the web address in small letters under it, and then under that 2 columns of sponsors... or events. Put the Yami logo on a shoulder, if its a long sleeve put it in the middle of a run of 3 bars. And then the front is the playground... to keep it simple put BansheeHQ.com on the left breast, and a cheezy slogan under it.