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Atomic Monkey

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Everything posted by Atomic Monkey

  1. Atomic Monkey
    I just put a twist on my Banshee, haven't tried it out yet. The only problem I came up with so far is the amount of body you have to throw into it on hard turns and the counter steer. On a bike for the most part its leaning with your body. Not sure if I'll like it, but since I put it on I'm gonna try it
  2. Atomic Monkey
    They're going to be sent out for boring as soon is I get done with the porting.
  3. Atomic Monkey
    Here's the other side.
  4. Atomic Monkey
    Just got the cylinders back from the welder. Basically just had some voids filled so I could work the transfers and not have to worry about popping through the casting.
  5. Atomic Monkey
    See, now that's what I was wondering too. I just measured with the stock piston dropped 4.5mm, and it does hang out of the bottom of the cylinder a bit, but not much. Figure the safe way is just to get a used 795 piston and fit it up
  6. Atomic Monkey
    I just posted in the wanted section, but thought I'd post it here too. Looking for at least one decent used 0.20 over 795 piston to do the mock up if anyone has any to get rid of.
  7. Atomic Monkey
    I need a good used 0.20 over 64.42mm Wiseco 795 long rod piston for some cylinder work I'm doing before sending them out to be bored. PM me and we'll work something out.
  8. Atomic Monkey
    Thank you Cam! That's exactly what I'm doing... getting rid of the spacer, and doing the mock up to check the port timings as soon as I get everything back. Hoping I can just shave the cylinders to zero deck, and work the domes for the correct squish.
  9. Atomic Monkey
    Yeah, the original question I had was because I didn't know what the offset is. Wiseco's site is pretty vague... So anyway, I got the answer I was looking for. I left some details about what I was dealing with, and my concerns about it. I'm always looking for a better way to do things. Oh, I stand corrected... long rod piston... not stroker piston...
  10. Atomic Monkey
    What's so dumb about this?
  11. Atomic Monkey
    I was just checking. The reason being with the stock pistons, the bottom of the skirt comes real close to opening up the bottom exhaust port. With a shorter piston it would probably give more over-lap, and I wouldn't need to take anything out of the domes to make up for the extra 2 mm of upswing as well. By shorter piston I mean a raised pin...
  12. Atomic Monkey
    Can stroker pistons be used with a 4mil short rod, or will there be interference issues with the crankcase?
  13. Atomic Monkey
    I do about 30 to 35 miles in a tank. But I'm idling in 6th while everyone on their 4 pokes are winding their shit out.
  14. Atomic Monkey
    Still getting it done. Welding the cylinders soon.
  15. Atomic Monkey
    I have an older master on mine, just wanted it for the brakelight switch. It didn't change the feel of the brakes at all. I like the adjustable stock lever though... until I look into something better.
  16. Atomic Monkey
    There's enough there to get it rounded. The bridge is still the stock width, so putting a radius on the cylinder side edges, and still have enough support for the rings shouldn't be a problem.
  17. Atomic Monkey
    There hasn't been anything else done to the cylinders since the pics I posted. There should be enough left on the bridge to rework it. With everything that I've been learning, there might be some welding going on. Mostly I'm worried about poking through the outer walls. I was working on a snowmobile tonight, a 600 twin Rotax. The intake layout... no windows in the piston, and the intake area is completely open into the transfers... just adds to the thought process.
  18. Atomic Monkey
    Not crazy about that knife edge either. Still doing a lot of learning fo sure!
  19. Atomic Monkey
    I had a flywheel key get pushed out and I didn't notice. The flywheel musta turned just enough that it wanted to fire, and kicked back hard enough I thought my foot was broken the next day, but it looked like it was trying to spin backwards. Older outboard boat engines, especially Evinrudes, had a safety on the crank that would kill the ignition if they popped themselves backwards at an idle.
  20. Atomic Monkey
    I gotta agree, made me laugh too. I measured the carbs, and that's what they came out to, got the quad with no tors on it. I'll change my sig so there won't be so much swiping! Lol!
  21. Atomic Monkey
    Jalopy!? That's just mean man...
  22. Atomic Monkey
    Now way that was as clever as my response, but thanks for taking the time to go through my sig!
  23. Atomic Monkey
    I hate extra swipes! Leaves balled up tp in my ass hair
  24. Atomic Monkey
    Stilll running the setup that made it run backwards? And really... a cdi did that? Adjustable timing plate or not? Still got the stock flywheel? Try that. If that doesn't work, try swapping the trigger wires at the plug... believe they are wht/grn and wht/red. If none of that works, put the aftermarket cdi back on, retime for reverse rotation, and get rear view mirrors
  25. Atomic Monkey
    I completely agree with strm trpr on the value of getting the carbs in sync. I use a motion pro sync tool, and tap into where the crossover tube is in the intake, removing the tube and using adapters.

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