Atomic Monkey

I would do what sleeper06 says, I've been really impressed with the advice he gives. As long as your reeds still have a good seal, I wouldn't worry about them. Pull your needle all the way up, get your 30 pilot in, and go from there like the man says. My only advice from there is to make any changes one step at a time, and give things a chance to settle in. And it could be just me, but I always like to make sure my float and fuel levels are right and even between the carbs, and that the carbs are synced. I do alot of my idle and off idle settings with the gauges on, checking to make sure the pipes are about the same temp, and that the "snap" of the exhaust is the same from side to side. I am by no means an expert, just sharing what I do, and what's important to me for getting a good base to tune from. On a side note, I ran Boyesen 2 stage on ported stock cages since I got my machine, just upgraded to VF4s as part of a rebuild. I've run the Boyesens in dirtbikes and snowmobiles too, they're ok, but there's just better technology and research now. I haven't run the VF4s yet, but I can't wait!

I don't know how many options there are for pistons with the wrist pins at different heights for stock rods. I could be wrong, but from what I've found so far is there could be interference issues with the crank and piston skirt. All the stroker pistons I've found revolve around long rod strokers. I know it would help me too if I had solid info about the different pistons, but for me I'm ok with stock height pistons, and then chucking the cyl spacer, doing some porting, and getting domes for the stroker. In the future I believe it will give me the option of going long rod if I roach a main with minimal investment in parts.

For me it got rid of the bog, and the plugs looked good. Guess I was more concerned about what the lean condition would do over how many turnes were on the screws. It was recommended to me to change the pilot because of the reeds I just got. Plus I'm running good with a 330 mains, so I'm guessing we're dealing with 2 different kind of animals. Guess what I'm saying is that it can't hurt to try, but maybe the experts can give you better direction on what pilots to run if you find that richer helps

That does make some sense in a way... 2mil pop up on zero deck with 0.030" squish. I would've been more inclined to think it means rod length too.

Had the same problem, ended up roughly 1/2 turn out... looking at different pilots.

I have a Vito's 4mil stroker with stock rods, the same 29L you have. I had stock cylinders with a spacer, so I'm not saying this is what you have, just letting you know it is possible to have a stock rod 4mil stroker

I've been thinking about polishing certain spots in the tunnels as well, mostly just around the areas where the charge makes its turn into the cylinders. Otherwise when I'm finally finished with with the porting, the intake and transfers are getting bead blasted, and the exhaust is getting polished

I got this quad about a year ago, and have been surprised by what's all been done to it. It came with reed spacers that weren't installed. When it was apart to replace all the linkages after a clutch ball weld, I decided to try the spacers out and put them between the cages and cyls. The cages were "ported" already with two stage reeds, and the cylinders were untouched. What the spacers did was lower and smooth out the hit when the pipes came on, and they also seemed to help gain more over-rev. I'm still staring at these cylinders, and putting together a plan. After watching the videos, I have a fairly good idea how I want to direct the flow. Just still don't know how I want to introduce it into the cylinder... roll it over an edge for some turbulance, or keep a radius for a smoother more direct flow.

Do you have the TORS removed? I do and was having the same problem with mine when I first got it. The things that made it better was syncing the carbs and adjusting the low speed jetting. In my case it was running too lean until the main came in.

Thanks again for the great advice! It's one thing to try to visualize what's happening, and quite another to actually see it. I already was planning to skip the reed spacers, and would never use one of the "can" style boost bottles that push into both sides of the intake. I understand boost bottles (on individual cylinders) in their use to buffer the intake pulse through the carb, and the way Yamaha uses the tube between the intakes. I see the point about the Boyesen ports, I wasn't too sure about putting them in, but figured it wouldnt hurt any to try it. Turbulant swirl... there's the concept that's been on my mind as I've been trying to figure out how the transfer tunnels will be shaped to introduce the flow into the chamber.

Hmmmm... I did not know that, thanks for the headsup!

My WR500 will eat my Banshee for lunch on any day, and the Banshee is no slouch either. I don't think the WR has a powerband, it just clears out and you're gone! A few years back I put an old air cooled YZ250 engine into an old Suzuki quadrunner. I chopped the mounts out of the bike frame and welded in the whole tubes, mounting... no problem. The pipe and dealing with the kick start was a total headache! Got the pipe on and opted for push start. Keep in mind this wasn't a serious build, just throwing parts together for fun. End result was plenty scary, and should've put the seat on the handlebars!

X2... I had the same problem with one of my front tires on a ride. Bought a can of Fix a Flat at a gas station, mostly to fill it back up on the trail, but it sealed it too.

Can't wait to see the finished product with the numbers!

will you be setting up and using a degree wheel for tuning? I like how the exhaust has turned out so far!

Don't have much choice, going to a different style piston and don't know how it will degree out until the new pistons are in. I did what I could before sending them out, and will just have to lay off the caffine a little when it comes to finishing them.

I haven't done anything with the exhaust, or the transfer tunnels and windows yet. Decided to wait until after the jugs and pistons come back, and the degreeing is done.

Another thought that I had was putting individual boost bottles on each cylinder to be able to tune them as "individuals", any thoughts on that? I've looked, and haven't found anything. This is how I used to run my old Yami SRV with twin TMXs, and that was no biggy.

A few thoughts so far... considering everything I've done so far is below the piston. V force 4 reeds when installed make it look like opening the whole intake chamber, and contouring the flow off the roof past the reed stops is beneficial. To add to that, I was running reed spacers and am not worried about extra volume. Direction of the crank spin acting like a fan and counteracting the direction of flow coming from the intake flow bias on the intake/upstroke. A possible point to this is not making the intake bridge as narrow as the template, thus breaking wind (lol!) around the rod making a low pressure area behind the bridge, creating turbulence that'll compliment the reciprocating stroke and stuff the transfers better. If it works out how I imagine, this will make the boost port more active, and the "Boyesen" ports should be more or less directed towards the boost port in the intake to keep the transitional flow away from the reed tips. Things I may do: Radius the top edge of the intake port significantly on the cylinder side to allow some of the flow to follow the draft of the piston. Not that it may mean much between the reactionary movement of air vs. the actual movement of the reciprocating assembly. Redirect the flow of the " Boyesen" ports by opening up the transfer side in a way to direct them at the boost port, and keep with minimal intrusion into the intake. Radius the outside of the intake ports in the cylinder to create a draft around the cylinder walls. If the timings work out right it could cause a static condition where the downstroke creates/amps the boost/transfer stuffing. This could further accentuate the aiming of the "Boyesen" ports. I like the radius on the inside of the transfers for the most part. If the degreeing of the assembly demands that I move the transfers, I will probably follow close to that radius. When removing material from the transfers I plan to focus on the bridge, upper outside wall, and the roof. Where the flow front should collide in the cylinder is still a mystery??? And yes I have Pro Ciricuit pipes... but damn this thing hit in the mid to upper RPMs! My friends think I'm nuts for doing this. Any thoughts and corrections are welcome! This is my first time porting, and I'm doing my best to understand the fundamentals. Plus I'd like to show up a few dedicated straight line guys with my badass... stock looking, trail rig! Next thing I do is LEDs! I

What about the rims? On the jack while they're spinning at a speed where you just see the bobble in the tire... is it just the tire, or both the rim and tire and tire doing the shakey? Or another thought, while its up on the jack, hold a ruler or something to measure the height of the rim off the ground, and turn the wheel by hand to see if it deviates.

I was wondering about that, not sure where to remove the material from. Looks like I can pull some off the divider, but my question now is where to focus the flow?

I read somewhere that the stock carbs can support up to 70hp. I'm still running stock carbs with a 4mil stroker, Pro Circuit pipes, and +4 on the timing. They're just rejetted, and have the tors removed. I'm in the middle of my first porting project, so we'll see how well they'll do when this thing breaths better

Great to hear the Time-Serts work well! I just picked up a kit and stainless inserts to do my head studs.... had some threads peel out when they were removed. I hate heli-coils!

Gotta' wait til the cylinders come back and the new pistons are in. Then we'll get to see the #s. Hoping to have the 'shee back together by next weekend for the radar runs. I'm interested to see how this thing will do, and if the new Kold Kutter Kanadian ice screws work better than the regular Kold Kutters

Ok, got the intakes and the bottom of the transfers done. Tomarrow the cyls go out to be bored. Here's a couple of pics, and Thank You for the help and the great feedback!