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Atomic Monkey

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Everything posted by Atomic Monkey

  1. I've got a raptor 660 shock I might want to get rid of, its got a remote rez and is a little longer... by at least an inch. Imo you'd probably be better off getting your stocker rebuilt with the right spring, that's the path I've decided to take... after picking up that raptor shock.
  2. Me likey too! Thinking of dumping my Pro Design and going to this for the total stealth look!
  3. Here's a pic of my frontend getting setup with 450 spindles and shocks
  4. So true! Mine broke down last winter, and I was thinking... hell just a bore and new pistons. Yeah right! Just blew past $2500 not long ago, and I'm still with stock cylinders. Lol, but I got alot of goodies in/on there now!
  5. Friggin' AWESOME! Should be running by next weekend! Thanks for everything!
  6. Well now I'm wondering why the switch over to the banshee spindles on the 450 setup? Cause I just switched to 450 spindles. The only real difference I noticed was the angle of the top balljoint mount...
  7. Moose, but that still has the step for the dust cap. Might just have to get the right size holesaw to customize one.
  8. 450 shocks are longer and drop the a-arms low enough to damage ball joints and give a pretty severe toe-in when the front suspension is unloaded. I have 450 shocks on my Banshee with Full Flight +2 +1 arms. I cutdown the mounts by an inch, and turned them out slightly. Now when the front suspension is unloaded, the a-arms drop the same distance they did with the stock shocks. In reality the geometry of the steering and suspension pretty much sucks! I like the mod that some of the guys here are doing by welding on a whole front stub and suspension from the 450.
  9. That head is off a '92 WR500. It's the same head design as the YZ490 except with a little less compression. The YZ490 and WR500 had a flawed head design from the factory that caused some pretty severe detonation. From my experience on the WR, it would buck pretty hard... it wasn't a ping it was a PANG!!! The factory cure was to drop the compression on the WRs, but the problem was the squish area was too wide. The popular solution is to cut another angle @ 30° 8mm wide where the squish transitions into the dome. In addition to that, I cut the cylinder base to "0" deck, turned the head down to a 0.030" squish band, and modified the carb slide to make it a 3.5mm cutout. Compression is at 210psi and it runs no ping on premium... which surprised me because I had set it up with Eric Gorr at Forward Motion to cut the dome area. The first ride after getting the carb set was awesome! Took it to the track and had no problems with power... actually took a little bit to get used to because of having to watch how much I blipped the throttle before going airborne. I regeared for last year with the biggest front sprocket I could find to tame it a little... only thing it changed is that it made 2nd usable instead of pointless, and its got more topend. When we go to Michagan, I ride the bike more than the Banshee, it's just crazy fast, and it has a more comfortable ride.
  10. I'm using the cartridge roll to round off some sharp edges. The intake and tunnels will be left with a blasted finish. The exhaust might get polished... just depends on how much time I have. Shooting to have it all together by the end of the month.
  11. I've been doing a lot of work on the Banshee lately. Powdercoated the frame, new crank, pro-modded trans, etc,etc... finally getting back to the porting. Got the transfer tunnels gasket matched and almost finished with the exception of a little cartridge rolling, and a bead blast. That will happen when I'm done adjusting the port heights and the exhaust.
  12. Here's a head I did a few years back for my dirtbike to cure a detonation problem.
  13. Can you measure them? I need roughly 18" between the end centers
  14. Here's some details about the pistons that was shared with me: They were built for the 4mil L/R of course... utilizing the stock dome profile, a pin location that is 1mm higher than a 795 piston, the rings are also relocated lower to keep them at a stockish depth in the cylinder in relation to the deck, and relocated windows to reduce the stress on the skirt that a modified window 795 or blaster piston would see. He said the mods to the 795 and blaster windows are commonplace in his line of work. The real advantages I see is for the guy who can only budget for a stroker crank and pistons. He can run with a thicker base gasket, and everything else stock... no more spacer plates. I was told that the ideal way to run is with a thinner base gasket, get the porting done, and have the head cut. To that point, the piston was developed to eliminate some of the intrusion created when having a stock head cut for piston pop-up, 1mm vs. 2mm.
  15. I did talk to Lane from Driveline last night. He's going to be cutting the domes, and had some great advice on the setup I'm working with. He also gave me some background on the pistons... I've got to say I'm happy to be dealing with him!
  16. Should take a look at outboard motors on boats. That's the first thing I thought of when I read "bathtub style". The chambers are oblong craters with the funkiest looking pistons.
  17. Got give the man Lane at Driveline props! Got back to me within 1/2 hr. We'll be talking tomarrow about the domes.
  18. Didn't see what I needed on that page, but I sent an email detailing the situation. Probably be the best people to work with considering I'm using "special" pistons with their name on the box. Can't believe I didn't think of that... I just got a base gasket from them!
  19. Oh hell, I didn't even think of Driveline! It would make sense to give them a call... afterall I have pistons that say Driveline on their boxes.
  20. For specs... what exactly are we talking about, durations?
  21. Looking for opinions on who makes the best custom domes for a pump gas 4mm!
  22. Here it is, pretty much all reassembled. Just need longer tierods and front brake lines.
  23. Nevermind... just figured out the TORS plugs will work... don't need them anymore and was in the process of removing them from the harness anyway.
  24. No, you don't have to, that's just how it was setup in my quad and it worked well, actually it ripped! I have the carbs, reeds, reed spacers, and stock intake boots that worked with this setup. Nothing special... 2 stage reeds on cleaned up cages, and Mikuni 28s no TORS. I also have one good superstock piston @ 64.42.
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