gusto

Color? Is it a Clarke?

Ported Redline 4 mil top end )pistons included) with D&D cool head and 20cc domes. 1.5 tanks of gas through this set up. Ran it pig rich. Bored 20 over. $425 I will also sell the carbs (stock w tors delete), intakes and vf3 reeds if anyone wants to buy the whole thing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

YEp got them mixed up

PRM is tops but I think there out of business now or sold. So I’m not sure you can order from there. ive heard from others guys here there isn’t much difference between dura blue, tusk, LSR, and Vito’s. Not sure if that’s true or not but if it is is just go with cheapest. jj&a play axle might be worth looking into also. curious to know if a stock axle with yfz450 hubs would be as strong as these new extended axles?

Got some PM for price

No idea but I will be watching this thread as I was originally wanting to do it this way

Insane!

Do I need to run a hose up to the bars or can I let it hang?

Could also be wrong pistons

Well quick fix assuming you know the stroke of crank is to have the domes cut. do you have the packaging the crank came in?

Just seen the plug off kit. I’m going to use a piece of rubber for the clutch side and back of engine

You guys just plug it with a piece of plastic or does someone make a plug for it?

Mailman has a HPR banshee in the dyno section. 75 hp with a beautiful curve, he actually makes T5s look good! Does a head mod too if I remember correctly. I tried to get him to build a stroker but he doesn’t venture to far from original specs on a banshee motor. I had some of his work on my zilla, it was a beast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good looking bike.

Good for you, saves some cash for the next mod

I don’t know where you are in Arizona but if your close to Jerry Hall I would bring it there. The guys a genius. D&M is also in Arizona and specialize in banshees

i Assume he will stand behind his work. let us know what the problem is in the end.

Did Kevin supply the gasket with his head mod? If so has that changed squish and compression characteristics of the engine? leaking around the bolts! You better leak down rear it before you do anything g else

Ya Carl (sleeper06) builds fast engines and is always helpful. do a leak down test, you never no

Ya we need Carl on this. Def not the carbs. Compression is way to low but everyone has seen this with a cheaper comp tester before. I’d try another tester just to be double sure. If your still getting 100 compression I’m guessing your milled head is where the problem lies. The bike runs like the tors brain is connected ....which I know you double checked. Hmmmmm

that seems real low on the mains. You’ve done a full leak down I assume? speaking of fuel, is it fresh? Filter at petcock clean? keep us updated, I’m stumped

Slides aren’t in wrong are they? it does sound electrical though. Have you tried a Yamaha Cdi from the parts bike?

FAST sellers the adapter for bigger carbs to the stock box. I’m curious to know what plate Cam used on the inside of the box where it attaches to the filter.

Bump. Cam, hope you see this, I would like some pics of your air box set up. And where do I get a larger opening plate? Tricked, are you still running an air box or pods? Anyone have any any tricks on modifying a stock box for more flow? I currently have a pro flow set up. What if I cut those nipples off the frame where the box sits in? Can I run the air box again or will that be too much stress on the carb boots? thinking of welding nuts at that location then installing bolts or pins that the air box can sit in then remove if I want to use pods

The guy was a moron.