uman1030

Last i heard, he gave them away! I kid...

↑↑ this 30 pilots especially with vf4's . 330 main is probably perfect... for 0° @ sea level. Something else is up with your buddies bike. If its lean popping with those mains then he has OTHER issues. Electronics or a descent air leak. Leakdown test would at least rule out an air leak which is the most common cause for needing such large jets on such a small motor.

Been hard for people to sell motors lately even for very good prices. They've either sold them for a considerable loss or parted them out to those that are still lacking a few good parts. GLWS

sure it would, not with a drag port but if it was a smerval and good low end pipes. Probably be a torque monster!

I have a set of polished 66mm unported with pistons freshly honed and a set of new rings for it. Bought them off a member and ended up never using them.

↑ hells ya, just switch engines with her! and take the 10mm good price for a complete Bike with a 10mm. edit: seriously tho who paints their 10mm banshee pink? had to be a womans bike to start with...

these work? http://acracing.com/product-list/replacement-parts-1011/replacement-nets-1015/ pg 2 #10 looks like for banshee

It was unavoidable at my speed without knowing it was there already and definitely NOT intentional. I dont even like riding in water at all well before this happen. I have jetski's if i want to play in water. Was only one side of the bike and lasted less then a second. I wasnt hardly even wet afterwords. Bike didnt die immediately it eventually just stalled and never started again. But yes obviously the bike shouldnt have been there since it cost me a top end. And yes ofcoarse everything has its limits they just aren't much with these bikes if your rpms are high. I let off thethrottle but the backloading of it still sucked it in.

not even sure what your point is really anymore. My point was i didnt think an open airbox was any better then pods.

i avoid water at all costs. I hardly call a water filled single tire rut swamping it. And it smoked my pistons/rings. Water terrifies me now. that was my first and hopefully my last experience with water at high speed. now i make sure im going super slow if i cross any water no mater how shallow. By high speed i mean it was more like 2nd or 3rd on band through a series of wide trails where a truck made a rut right out of a corner which filled with rain water. Didnt have time to do anything.

Before you bolt it all back up i would remove the pressure plate and use a magnet to extract the ball bearing inside the clutch push rod assembly. Dont have to take basket off or anything just the pressure plate. If this little ball bearing is worn it will also make the distance from clutch actuator/pushrod/bearing/adjuster off and leave you without enough adjustment. cost like $3 for the ball. I over tightened the adjustment on my first banshee and put a flat spot on this bearing and had to replace it since i could never get it adjusted right after.

unless your running the lid/snorkle it barely helps keep the water out. when the water splashes up to the seat hit hits the edge and funnels right into the airbox cause of no lid then down on to the filter. even worse if its mucky water as it clogs the drain vent inside and then there is a pool of water inside the airbox. Popped my first banshee engine this way. Hydro-lock blew both lower piston rings right off. and it was just a water filled rut, not very deep like 8" deep but about 10ft long. in a trail just out of a corner. Came up on me so fast i couldnt do anything but cringe. lesson learned..

he said badlands Indiana not LS.

any of those are good baskets, Hinson is expensive as hell but ive heard nothing but good things about them. Also i have heard the other two are great baskets especially for the price.

with out the basket removed you cant tell if the eccentric is adjusted correctly cause it actually moves parts under the basket. Best way to learn is hands on. Asking questions is the only way to learn with out trial and error. Also the ball inside could be worn and have a flat spot creating the lack of adjustment. Id pull it apart and have a look.

try a magnum billet i have heard good things about them on here.

i bid like 7 times..

↑↑↑ These are nearly extinct, if you search the wanted adds you will find many of these posts with no luck unfortunately. The couple pair out their they want as much as you could get a brand new set made for you. Contact Stellar or fireball for a set. If its for drag then tyson has the cheapest drag style J arms ive seen .

think he was just linking one from ebay to be helpful. I could be wrong but i dont think he is actual selling it. If price is an issue you could always just build your own from parts at your local hardware or homedepot and you would have it much sooner then waiting on shipping and would cost less. its not very hard really. OP hasnt been online since Jan, just sayin I pm'd you a link to thread how to make one.

Can you take a pic of the clutch assembly. is your pressure plate mounted correctly arrows lined up and fully seated? Pretty sure i too had to fiddle with the cable adjuster to get it perfect but i think it was fairly close to lining up once i adjusted the one on the pressure plate. I do however remember it not wanting to adjust correctly at first but i think i had the pressure plate not fully seated. Did you remove the clutch pack and inspect it? Make sure the thrust washers are in the correct places)one behind basket and one behind inner hub boss and that the fibers were not worn? I know you said it was new but i know if the clutch is worn it will be thinner also making for difficulty in getting it adjusted correctly. also you can test it out once pressure plate is tight before you add fluid and put cover on. Dont start it obviously but just pull clutch in and see how it spreads the plates when pushed.

honestly i havnt installed vf4's I had jeff at fast do this with my build, so i dont have much advice other then look over the mating surfaces make sure they are nice and flat and make sure there is no left over gasket on the cylinder. Inspect the gaskets for tears and such. I would think some rtv would be fine if needed to get a seal but ive never had to use it in this area personally

I would first just see if they arent tight and you can just tighten then up a little bit. have they been removed recently? In my experience when ive removed the reed cages if they have been on for a great deal of time they tore the gaskets pretty bad and i had to clean up the surface and use new ones.

So true, not sure why he would feel the need to point out to some one new to the site that your trying to rip him off. hummer is just rude like that tho

I have a set of polished 66mm cylinders/pistons freshly honed and new rings in package still for that price..

Since you don't have a leakdown tester I wouldnt try and make one, I would make this thread like 300 pages long explaining the exact same thing over again. ignoring each time some one told me to do a leakdown test and just try it again and see if the motor fairy fixed it while i slept.