uman1030

its not, billet cones no rubber in it.

Kinda what i was thinking. I sent him a message and asked seller if it was an antivibe clamp. He replied, "yes its in the picture". I then asked him, "I see a clamp in the picture but I see no rubber on it to dampen any vibration which would make it an antivibe. Does it have any rubber in it" No reply back so far probably won't reply lol Wondering if I should go with a extended stem. Never rode with one and I'm not tall(5'11) so probably +1 if any.

Avoid the yfz450 front end and get parts designed for the banshee.

Have you tried adjusting the A/F screws to see if that helped throttle response? what are they set at now? 340 seems pretty rich for your bike. The 300 you had in should have put you pretty close depending on outside temperature. What was your compression with those 20cc domes? What type of fuel are you running?

Ya those phillip heads suck, i switched over to allens as well but luckily i have an impact screwdriver that i always used before i switched. Still just easier to use the allens.

found one on ebay seems to be nice but i was wondering why its so cheap compared to other Roll Design stems http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-350-BANSHEE-ROLL-DESIGN-STEERING-STEM-1989-2001-2003-1987-2006-1990-1995-/281272969784?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417d2cea38&vxp=mtr This one is $200 for chrome and all the other ones are $300 and not even chrome. Leads me to wonder why its priced how it is and if i should avoid it. Same one not chrome, raw $149 http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-350-BANSHEE-ROLL-DESIGN-STEERING-STEM-1989-2001-2003-1987-2006-1990-1995-/251409929978?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a893316fa&vxp=mtr here is the next priced ROD stem http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLL-DESIGN-GP-SERIES-STEERING-STEM-EXTENDED-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-ALL-407301-BLK-/330835891728?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d075b1610&vxp=mtr

No shit Sherlock, So your saying its better to buy more money in tools to try to do a job that will most likely not turn out well. to SAVE money on something that will cost more money is not saving money. but then again math is not your strong suit obviously because a 148 word post is far from a 500 word essay. If your math skills are as good as your porting skills no wonder you have yet to show any evidence of actually knowing Anything about the subject except some stuff you repeated to pretend to look educated on the subject you know nothing about you fucking douchebag.

Sounds like filter is too large but it may be fine if you can tighten it enough with no gaps for debris to sneak by.

↑ this. as long as its on there tightly it will work just fine. Doesn't actually need the pro flow filter, just as long as the one you have fits and isnt going to fall off

hows the rest of the construction and welds? fab up some better tabs! lol.. What a let down but as Sprinklerman said, "you get what yo pay for"

Yes i realize this and i wish you good luck in your attempt. Just wanted to make you aware that getting a set of exactly matching ports on both cylinders if not done correctly will never run right. The cost of the proper tools alone is not cheap, coupled with the possible cost for another set of cylinders may greatly exceed the cost to ship them to be ported.

only a very very small minority of people know how to do this. They have taken extreme amounts of time(years) learning what measurements and port geometry works for different applications. Alot of which with trial and error, many sets of practice cylinders and money to get these cylinders just to get a good working port. Most any one who has this knowledge will most likely be very hesitant to share it on an open forum. Doing it yourself for the first time will most likely lead to needing another set of cylinders its not a simple task. Any money you think you may save doing it yourself would soon be lost when buying several sets of cylinders to get a good working port on them.Your best bet would be to contact a site sponsor and send them to them to have them do it for you.

Looks sweet but there isn't one listed for a banshee.

1200 rpm

Sorry yes I should have said re-chambered not milled. The added stroke on a short rod creates more angle and puts more side load on the piston skirt to cylinder walls and seems to wear faster.

Seriously? Yes im fully aware you can adjust the idle screws to change the idle... Idle screws raise the idle by raising the slides. The air screws when turned out raises the idle because it added more air making it lean. not the same thing. Try setting the air screws as i stated above. The object is for it not to effect the idle by making it lean but just be just above lowering the idle from a rich condition caused by having them in too far.

google it.. Altitude of City/state

yes you can use standard banshee pistons with a short rod and have port timing raised for the added stroke and head milled .

Its possible, sometimes its just easier to find out what is not the problem to cut down variables to actually diagnose what is the problem. Lot of things on these can have similar symptoms for totally different causes. can be frustrating when you don't know where to start. Jetting, airleaks or electrical problems are almost always the cause of most any issue with these. Alot of times there is no quick fix with out some testing.

While i like the way they look and i Have a set sitting here still brand new uninstalled. I haven't actually ridden with them so i cant give you an honest answer. They look great tho! and appear to be a quality product.,we'll see.

Not to derail your thread but do they make these with reserve? I haven't been able to find one but i thought i remember some one saying they do.

ATV galaxy you can get a full set of custom made elkas stage 3 front and rear for $1255.50. They are 1395 but once you add them to the cart you'll get a 10% discount wich will show the real price then.

A/f screw is part of the idle circuit so unless your only letting it idle then the plugs wont be a perfect indicator. More then likely with a 30 the sweet spot would be more around 1.5 but im guessing you tried that before you went to 1? with the bike idling if you move the screws from 1 to 1.5 and wait about 20 secs does the idle raise? I normally start off at a couple turns out then in small increments turn them in on both sides then wait to see how it effects idle once i find out where it lowers the idle i then move it back out about 1/8 of a turn.

If that's what the motor likes that is fine. Was that where you had the best idle with the most crisp throttle response? Generally if you have to turn it in to 1/2 or less to get the best idle and crisp off idle response you need a larger pilot and if you have to turn it out to more then 2.5 turns then you need a smaller pilot.

WSM makes pistons for banshee at 68.5, 69, 69.5 and 70 sold in pairs on ebay. claims for banshee in add. just thought i would add that for any one interested in the cylinders.