uman1030

What mods have been done to the motor? What type of pipes, porting, carburetors and air cleaner setup? (stock Air box with lid/stock Air box no lid/PODS) What are the current jets? Main?? Pilot?? What is the needle Cip set at?? A/F screws set at? Have you cleaned them and synced them?

FMF does recommend a 30 for those pipes with stock reed cages so it very well may take a larger then 30 pilot with the VF4's. Although, your issue sounds like it may be needle related if it happens right before "the main kicks in". Its also very likely you have an air leak that is causing the engine to need more fuel. I would first do a leak down test and verify it really just needs more fuel and there isnt another issue that is causing it.

Also the 12pt bolt sucks on the beadlock rings!. 3 different sockets all the correct size and all slip if i don't push super hard holding it onto the bolt, then they just slip less. Seems like all the sockets that are 12pt 3/8, have a taper on the tip of the socket and the bolt head also has a slight taper down to the 12pts so together with taper on socket and on bolt it leaves you with very little contact area between the socket and bolt when seated on the bolt fully..

Trying to put on my ITP Holeshot HD's onto My Hiper Tech 3 rims and on the fronts, beadlock side, i can not seem to get them to seal well. Any tricks im 0 for 2 so far in getting them to seal? Im trying not to over tighten them since i read they are fairly easy to strip but at these torque specs(9-11ft/lbs) im having no luck. Ive removed the bead ring multiple times and made sure it looks good, cleaned the surfaces and sprayed them down with soapy water. i can see the bubbles created by the rim leaks and im half tempted to just crank down the bolts near them but as i said i read they strip easily so i havnt, yet...

Easiest way is remove the springs and use an impact wrench on the clutch basket nut after you have bent the lockwasher back off of the nut. I dont think you can avoid having to reassemble the clutch pack but its very simple anyways. The only real time saver is the impact wrench. It can be very difficult to hold the clutch basket while trying to turn the Nut with a regular ratchet.

This is in regards to the brake conversion. After some research it appears in 2007 they "redesigned" the YFZ 450 front master cylinder to produce more pressure. So obviously 2007+ would be the optimal Front master cylinder to get. I'm curious if the previous year of these front master cylinders still produce more pressure then the stock banshee master cylinder. I have 2x 2006 YFZ 450 master cylinders. I have the calipers installed, lines ran and bled with the original banshee master installed. Bike is still being assembled so i cant really test anything other then i know they work. Since I also have the YZ450 front master cylinders. Will it be of any upgrade to even use one of them?

Is it possible your cable is adjusted too tight either at the handle bars or on top of the caps and its not allowing the slides to drop to the idle screws? but i also agree that its likely lean if it has stock pilot still.

I will have to use this decibel level meter APP on my phone to test before hand. Wonder what people do with Shearer inframes to make them spark-arrested. I dont believe they have factory spark-arrested silencers. (could be wrong, havnt examined mine or installed them yet)

Taken from the Rules http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,4570,7-153-10365_15070-34760--,00.html about half way down. Further down is EXHAUST SYSTEM RULES AND TESTING.. (a) Vehicles shall be equipped with a muffler and spark arrester containing baffles, shall meet the muffler and spark arrester requirements specified in subsection (g) of section 81133 of Part 811, Off-Road Recreational Vehicles, Natural Resources and Environmental Protection Act, 1994PA 451, MCL324.81133(g), and shall successfully pass a muffler and spark arrester baffle test. ( A maximum noise level of 94 dB(A), or the current EPA emissions limit, shall be met. The testing provisions of current SAE J 1287, June 93 standard for ATV and motorcycle vehicles and SAE J 1169, March 93 for all other vehicles shall be followed and all vehicles shall pass a stationary sound level test. The stationary sound level test shall be administered from a 0.5 meter (19.69 inches) distance at one-half the engine’s maximum rated RPM and as further described by current testing provisions for the particular vehicle.

The stock ones that i have laying here, that go from air box to carb measure: Carb side ID 42mm Airbox side ID 60mm

PM sent

89 & 90 Have the different brakes

As the title says. Need a single Upper A Arm bolt. LMK Not opposed to buying a set of new ones (If some one wants to point me in the right direction) i just couldn't find anything really except for a couple overpriced used ones on ebay.

Mine arrived today. Double beadlock rears single fronts.

↑↑ I will be checking this out. Are your tierods bolted through the top or bottom of you spindles?

Not sure i like how the tie rod touches the lower a arm when turned at full extension..

If the pressure plate is lined up, seated all the way and the bolts inside the clutch springs on the pressure plate are tight. I don't really see how a fiber could come out.

Shot in the dark here, pressure plate not seated correctly with arrows lined up? So there is a gap allowing the last plate to come out?

Alba +2 +1 Gull wing A arms: Dumb question, do i use my stock dust caps on these a arms? Reason i ask is cause the bottom arm with caps installed and fit perfectly. Top is too tight and i will have to bend the tabs out a touch. Before i did this i figured i would ask around. Bought them used so no included directions but i looked online and found some( Seen here →→ http://teamalbaracing.com/files/pdf-installation/ATV/atv-a-arms.pdf ←←) Makes no mention of the dust caps.

just under $900 with double beadlock rears. Almost $1400 on rims and tires.. Lets hope they last a while!

Ordered a set of the hiper Tech 3's/blue rings. ATV galaxy was not horribly far off on their price when i called the store, Little more but helped a sponsor and they will be shipped out immediately. Win/Win.

↓↓↓See the tube connecting the two carburetors below? ↓↓↓ Make sure it makes it's way back in to that same spot. Will save you a whole other thread in the future lol

I would check out how you got shocked. If touching it at idle zapped ya then at high rpm it may be arching to ground and cutting out.

May have to grind off the rivets on your oem basket and remove gear to use it with new basket. Then install oem gear on new basket with new cushions/hardware, sometimes you use your old backing plate other models use their own backing plate.

Sounds like parking brake electrical issue... Make sure the parking break switch on the clutch is disconnected at the connecter. Or the Green/yellow wire is snipped at the cdi. Also your jettings seems pretty fat for having the LID on the airbox. I would think it would be more like 260ish with the lid on snorkel detached. Less if snorkel is still on it. Depending on weather temperatures of coarse but for average riding weather it seems rich.