LCW

Have a set of vf2 and vf3 cages that I'll off load cheap. Both need petals.

There is a wanted section for "wanted" parts. I do have a set though.

Don't know where you came up with it breaking down in a couple of hours. Wet clutches are made to slip, slipping casues friction thus causing heat. The steals between the frictions in your clutch are what heat up. ATF is designed to run at an operating temperature of 175 degrees, 20 degrees more will cut the service life in half. In car the fluid is circulated and cooled, not to mention there is much more fluid in the system. In a banshee there isn't that much fluid, and it never gets cooled. So when your hot lapping your drag bike launching at 8k, when you stop and take off again, etc your clutch is slipping and heating up the steals and oil. The last stock clutch setups I have torn apart recently had discolored steals, both on alky drag bikes, one with lockup, the other without. The one without the lockup was slipping when I pulled it, steals had bad discoloration.

What's up with the second super cub setup? Shoot me a pm, lets talk.

What altitude were you at with these?

What are you after?

Have a nice set with covers. Only selling as a set though.

^ Why I don't like ATF. It is a good fluid for wet clutches and transmission, but you have to keep it cool. The second it gets hot it breaks down fast, which can glaze over your clutches.

I run Rotella T6 Full Syn in all of mine,

Yeah, I have two for sale.

There is a set flying around the for sale section. Dude wants 100 for the set. They are 68mm.

Does it shift through all of the gears with the clutch? Is it just hanging up on one gear? Install the springs correctly?

Nope that was my add, that swinger can be found here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=170147&hl=

Yeah I have a set. Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

What's good on the works? PM me.

I have a full set of stockers with covers. Check my thread.

I think using a wideband somewhere in the fatty pipe, probably close to the cylinders but far enough away to not get false readings, would be more accurate than monitoring egts. It would be easier to dial in 3/4 throttle down. Seems like they would take the guess work out. Although I still read plugs and listen to the bike. I would like to test and see if readings differ from the stinger to the fatty.

Mods on this shit fast.. Your welcome for the free bumps.

There is a wanted section for a reason...

Yeah bro have some old school fmfs. Can't get em to for just shipping though. Let me know what you can spend and I'll hook ya up.

As far as I have seen, when a CDI is the issue they either work or they don't. Simple.

Do you believe that the stinger/silencer is the most accurate way? I think I have seen some pictures flying around of guys tuning with pipes that have bungs in them. From what I know about 2-strokes, I believe that if the bungs are to close to the cylinders one would get false readings.

All of these peeps are good buyers, thanks.

I was reading a thread on dyno tuning and came to question where you guys are placing the wideband sensors in the exhaust. Do most of you guys just put them at the stinger on OOF pipes, silencer on inframes, or have tuning pipes with bungs in them? I think of how the fatty pipes work on a 2-stroke making me question location, if you guys are in fact running a pipe with bungs. I'm curious as to what happens from dyno to dyno between some site sponsors.

Got a set of full flight powder coated black.