erickson483

X2 heater hose. I use some that I found at the hardware store. It's a tight squeeze, then with some clamps it is a good seal. But, obviously it's not as clean as those pretty cascades!

Check out the for sale - site sponsors. Atv galaxy has an uncut set of purple in real good shape. Not exactly what you are looking for, but I figured I'd share.

Looking for some warrior parts, or banshee stuff if it fits. It's a 1999. I need: -rear brake caliper and line -front master cylinder assembly (just handle bar stuff) -air box -carb to airbox boot -tail light Like I said, if there's banshee parts that will work, that's fine by me! Thanks. You can message or txt 517-861-0083

Forgot to mention. It shifts from 3rd to 2nd fine, just 1st to 2nd is the issue.

So this is not for a banshee, but a cr125. The trans is essentially the same and you guys always have great info. So here goes: I replaced a bent shift fork for 2nd gear in the trans, put it all together and bench tested it. It shifts through all the grears when parked. However, when I ride it doesn't go into 2nd unless I am rippin pretty good in the RPMs. Do you think drum? Gears? Both lol? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking to put HID's on my girlfriends 05' yfz, but wanted to see if anyone had a nice high output stator and rectifier/regulator laying around before I shell out and buy a new one.

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This is kind of a shot in the dark, but I'm looking for yfz engine parts for my 2005. Needs: Piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, wristpin bearing Timing chain Valves Possible crank

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You could even be like 280 on the main, but it's better to start rich and lean it out. Just a tip, loosen the clamps to the carb boots and you can turn the carb. That makes it easy to take the bowl off and get the jets out quick.

You're probably going to be around 290 main and 27.5 pilot. Maybe try a 300 to start then do a plug chop. 27.5 pilot fo sho

Poolman is the guy to talk to. Don't waste your time and money building one, his are top notch. Here's a link: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=154986

The only real way to fix it is using a lot of force. It sucks, but if you use a lot of rags it's not too bad. I did it to mine even after it was painted. Here's what you do: 1. Secure the frame to the floor 2. Wrap the steering stem mount with a shirt. 3. Place a floor jack in the frame, and rest it on the crossbar by where the Swingarm bolts to. 4. Raise the floor jack and start bending back that bar. You'll need about a 12" section of 4x4 or something similar to make it long enough to reach. This does work, but way easier with an extra person or two to help out. Worst case scenario, some PC may crack but even if it does you'll never see it. It's going to be covered up. It still pisses you off if the PC cracks, but at least you will be the only one who knows it is there.

Everyone says J&T. I'll just go that route and sacrifice a few days of down time lol

My girlfriend has an 05 yfz, and it needs the oil mod/upgrade. I was hoping someone has a clutch cover that has a high vel oil pump. I'm even interested in an 04 05 06 clutch cover that I can send out to get worked on.

Rattle can ray......I hope that all goes well for you!

Does the 2nd set seal?

If you're on a real tight budget and just want it to run, post a wanted ad or check the for sale section for pistons. Send your cylinders out to get bored and honed. Check the site sponsors for a price, its on their websites. Then check here for the size pistons you need. Pistons show up here quite often and they're usually in good shape. That's my .02 if you have to keep the cost to a minimum.

It's a general consensus that sst's aren't good for port work. I emailed Kevin at hjr and he recommended some t5's, pro circuits, or even fattys for my mx hardcore port. Ask the builder who's going to do your port job. That's your best bet for sure. They'll put you on the right path

You would have no problem at all doing a crank. It's a simple job. 4mil ftw. Whatever you do decide to do, just weld that crank at least. No sense in adding power and not compensating for it.

Swap the plug wires and see if the problem changes to the other cylinder. But at 100psi, that thing needs a rebuild

Get a clymer manual for $30 and you'll have no problems. I did a full case swap last year. It's really very easy. 2 strokes are simple. You only need a few special tools like a flywheel puller and a 1/4" drive torque wrench. Pullers are like $10 and a torque wrench can be rented from autozone. It's a good learning experience, plus you'll have a lot more than just a little pep with a ported 4mil

In my opinion, if you are going to port the cylinders, you're going to want to weld the crank. And since you are splitting the cases to get at the crank, you might as well go with a 4mil. Being realistic, for a 4mil you'll need a cool head, tz and max load bearings, pancake bearing, different pipes, upgraded clutch, bigger carbs. It's an investment for sure, but you can recoup some of that $$$ by selling the parts you won't need anymore. All in all, after selling your old stuff you can probably do it for around $1400

+4 timing is going to probably be the best (and cheapest) but you should upgrade your reed situation if they're stock. Pro design cool head is nice, but not necessary. I'd say 21cc domes if you get one though. If your riding style allows it, remove the air box lid or go to some pods.

Seeing that it's cold out, it's very unlikely you are lean. However, you could have a small air leak and not even know it. Do a plug chop, it's the only way to be sure. Just do a plug chop now, then do probably 2 more as the weather warms up. That way you'll know what jets you need for what temps. As you found out, colder weather needs a smaller main, warmer weather needs a bigger main. Keep that in mind so you don't get lean later on. But like I said, plug chop is the only way to go