erickson483

Switched forks. Works like a champ

Good question. Yes I'm positive. Actually, idk why I didn't do this before. I'll switch the two #1 forks and see if the problem travels or clears up. I'll post my results tomorrow

I hope this works....I'm trying this from my phone. The first two pictures are of the problem fork. The one that is kinda chewed works well. The first picture I tried to get a look at the little flat spot but it's really hard to see. http://m223.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/erickson483/19ffec0a.jpg.html?o=0&newest=1 Let me know if this link won't work

Forks look good. I wish I could post pictures right now. The only part that is binding is where the knob of the fork slides in the drum. It does not want to slide well. I could just be overreacting, I just hate to have to split the cases again if it doesn't end up working.

Ya I'm spinning the primary drive when shifting it. Whether the trans is in, or if it's just the forks and drum in, you have to wiggle the shift fork to get it to shift from 3rd to 2nd. It is binding real hard. When the trans gears are in, it won't even go from 3rd to 2nd at all. I have to take the gears out and wiggle the fork by hand to get it to shift at all. Also, my shifting mechanism IS properly adjusted. I'll have to wait til i get home and use my camera to zoom in enough to get a good picture of what i'm talking about.

I was getting ready to assemble my cases and while testing the transmission for shifting, I found that It does NOT want to shift from 3rd to 2nd. Going from 3rd to 2nd is the only trouble spot. I pulled the trans gears out and went through the gears again with just the forks and drum in it. The shift fork 1 closest to the shift star is getting stuck on the drum. From there I took everything out and saw a flat spot worn into the shift fork and a flat spot on the drum where it is transitioning between 3rd and 2nd. So my question is should I try to repair the flat spots, buy a new fork, or buy all new forks and a new drum?

Actually, what would I need to do if my squish is too large and I have a fresh top end? Get smaller domes or smaller base gasket? Like I said, I'm a first timer haha.

Nuff said lol. Thanks

To start, I'm assembling my first banshee motor and have been searching here for a while to see everything that I need to do once I get it together. (leakdown, squish, etc...) I've used the search here to see how to do the squish and all that, but am wondering exactly how important it is to be in the correct spec range? I'm definitely not racing, I'm just trail riding for fun with this thing. It seems like if my squish is too large my compression wouldn't be as high. Is that correct?

Face + palm

2008????

Use some high temp grease or oil for seals?

Now that im home I checked my clymer. Connecting rod side clearance is .25-.75mm new and side to side play at the top of the rod is .36-.98mm new. Looks like I'm ok. This crank is supposed to be fairly new but I wanted to make sure I didn't have to go 4 mil

So I'm swapping cases on my very first banshee. I'm putting it all together in the morning but have a couple questions. How much side to side play should there be in the piston rods? I don't have any up and down play but around <1mm play from left to right. Second question, what are some helpful tips when it comes to lubricating the trans or crank while assembling. To clarify, neither the crank nor any transmission shafts were disassembled. Seals are all new though, I'm only doing a case swap.

What do you still have?

I wouldn't think 1 tooth on the back would be too noticeable in your chain tensioning. Did you compare your new chain to your old one?

104 length is stock chain length but your rear gear is smaller than stock. Lose a link if you're tensioners are maxed out

Hell ya. Highland is like 40 min from me. How's the quality and pricing?

Absolutely sick welds. That's some nasty stuff

Woh! Seems a bit unnecessary. But like said ^^^^ RM or Ricky's is garbage out of the box. Find a used oem or ask sheerider1026 nicely and he might recoil your stator the right way

Don't need one. My new list is like 3 posts ^^^^^^^^^^

Ttt. Also need stock chain adjusters

Does anyone know what size tubing the fuel line is and the lines on the stock carbs? (overflow, choke tube, anything else i'm missing)

Sidcon has a post in the for sale section with a set of FMF's. Might not be a bad option

I had 4 new PMs so I want to update everyone who messages me. This is my new list of what I need. 1. Headlights 2. Top end gasket kit (I have 66mm pistons) 3. Brake pads 4. Exhaust hangers and springs 5. Nerf bars (pref black) 6. Chain rollers, slide, rear guide If you messages me ill be returning messages right now. Thanks guys