cline

Yeah this guy sounds like a real winner. Shit, even if that bike didn't run its worth that $1650 all day long. He must be in a real pinch, or a real fucking idiot, I can't tell which one because of the 3rd grade writing level his post was written in.

I have been following your post since it started because I was interested in the issue you were having. The guys always seem to give great advise on trouble shooting so I have been stock piling the info I see the wise men give out time and time again because it seem to always be pretty much the same when it comes to carb issues. I would have to say I haven't seen this one yet though. Good job on being patient enough to make the discovery the way you did though. This has already helped me because like I said I haven't seen this tip yet so it has now also been added to stock pile.

Heres the link he was talking about and its an excellent visual guide. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

Thats a pretty funny way to look at it. You are right though and I am going to buy one way or another, just saw this post and thought I might be in the right place a the right time to save a little on the motor. Either way the money was going to get spent on the banshee so I'm not to worried about it.

Hey you should really check out the Tech info forum in here. There is a thread titled Banshee electrical FAQ. Member tedd1 put together a seriously nice post that can probably answer any question you ever thought you had about you banshee electrical. Its got all kind of info on the stator and how to test it. Check it out, heres the link or just go to the tech info section http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

I just went to M&M and checked his prices and for the *****special****** 4mil serval kits they are going to run me right around $1500 which seems to be the going rate from all the sponsors that post their prices online. I say $1500 for the going rate because I already have a cool head so don't need to purchase another. Am I missing something because I didn't find the, "amazing special sales" you speak of.

I have read many of times on here that the pick up coil gap should be .02

I am getting ready to do my build and recently have started to consider the serval route. Is this "special" you speak of something you wish would happen, or something that you have viewed the sponsors do in the past? Just wondering if waiting is going to benefit my wallet.

Did you check the site sponsor PJ Motorsports? http://www.pjmotorsports.com/ If you already did my bad, if they don' thave it, sorry I tried.

Well if you say that you don't know if you have wires for it or not, and the TORS has been removed this means that someone has obviously been in the wire harness at least unplugging stuff. If it went any further than is up to you to check, because some guys modify their harness to their liking. You never know, if your bike came without head and tail lights, it might be wired to not accept them anymore. You need to ensure that the harness is still set up to run head and tail lights by verifying your harness against the diagram. If so great, if not try the for sale section for a cheap used good one, try one of the site sponsors, or fix the harness yourself to accomidate lights. Ensure that you have a voltage regulator. Then check the for sale section or F.A.S.T. for head and tail lights and you are good to go. In the tech info thread there is banshee electrical FAQ. Heres the link so you have a diagram and the link to FAST. Good luck. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/

I'm not a professional by any means but in my opinion, the only way you are going to verify anything, is to see it your self. I doubt the markings you speak of on the cylinder actually identify any inside motor work but who knows. If you really want to help the wise men out in here post a pic of what you are talking about. The guys told me in here, "if it aint broke don't fix it ." So if you like the way it rides, and it aint broke, I personally wouldn't pull it apart just to see whats in it unless you're hell bent on knowing. Either way you chose to go, have fun with the banshee.

I have seen your posts the last couple days and it seems like you are trying to educate yourself to make your banshee experience as good as it can be. If you haven't already, definately check out the Tech info forum in here because it has some awsome information in it to assist you along in your learning. Another site that has some good info in it is one of the sponsors here, Mull engineering. If you want to learn some more check out their site top to bottom and you'll continue to learn. There is good info in their site about your question, and its titled, "What type of two stroke oil should I use and what ratio?" Klotz is mentioned in there which is what I use, but you'll have plenty to chose from when your time comes. Heres the direct link and its about 3/4 of the way down the page but you can benefit from reading it all. Good luck and welcome to the fun! http://mullengineering.com/rt/tech_docs.htm

I have been running DID chains with chain wax for a long time and have never had a problem. Don't know if its the right thing to do but it has worked for me without issue.

I would say that if you have made the evaluation that the spring is "toast" and you rendered it unusable then..........yup, go ahead and order a new one. Its probably not more than a couple bucks. Jeff at F.A.S.T. seems to have everything. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/

I know that there are guys on here that have been doing this way longer that I could have ever dreamed so they probably heard it, seen it, done it, know about it. If it was me, I would ask the wise men for their opinions first, and purchase second. Just my opinion. If you keep it, get rid of it, whatever, hope your bike turns out the way you want it.

I am also running the OKO 30mm carbs but have never had a problem with them. I heard some guys on here bashing them so I did a search and found that for some guys they had a problem running the bowls dry which sounds like you may be experiencing the same effect. Theres more than one thread on here about the OKO's but I could only find this one real quick. If you search you might find out better info and pm some of the guys that had the problem to find out how they solved it. Heres the link to the discussion I found. Good luck http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=129402

That is one hell of a trick that I would have never thought of when trying to get the carb to stop leaking. You're the man, thanks for the link Larry!

The options are ridiculous!!!!!!! Every time I think I get close to making my decision !! Good luck to you because its been the funnest nightmare ever for me

I also sent Kevin a similar email with questions about his 4mil set ups. He has a couple different choices or paths to go so as long as your questions are specific he will definately point you in the right direction. I asked about bearings, carbs, clutch, trans, and what he would recommend for the categories I just mentioned for the different packages he offers. Just be specific and you can't go wrong.

I have all bolt on mods and haven't made the jump into the porting YET. I used to ride in Kentucky where it was real muddy and wet but still didn't want to run the air box so I ran the Toomey 2 into 1 and thought it was great. It was elevated a little and kind of tucks under the seat assisting with keeping the water and mud off a little and never had any problems with it at all. Ive always been extra cautious to ensure that my filter/carb connections were very clean, dry, and had no filter oil residue or gas present upon assembly to ensure a secure hookup. After moving back out west to Arizona I switched to the dual stage uni foam filters 6 inch because I figured I might get more air than the two into one and didn't need the added protection anymore. Again with the uni filters I have never had a problem and have never had a filter fall off in my 13 years of riding and I have used K&N, Uni, and Toomey 2 into 1. Solid clean connection = good to go

couple years back I put a 200W ricky stator on my bike and it was a piece of shit out of the box. I thought it was going to be a good upgrade because.........long story. Anyway right out of the box it was shit. Shitty solder jobs, the yellow power wire was not even connected to the fitting inside the water proof connector and the yellow coating wasn't even stripped so that the connection was ever possible. Garbage Garbage Garbage. If you have another option you might wanna try that. JMO, Best of luck cuz I chased my tail forever fixing mine.

Oh I can verify this first hand. I got myself a 200W ricky stator a couple years back and right out of the box it was a pile of shit and more headache than I wanted. Got it all figured out now but like others have mentioned they can be crap and if there is a better optiona and you can return it you might want to give that a shot.

Just when I thought I was getting ever so close to finishing my motor wishlist I was informed that there are still items I need to figure out (clutch, transmittion). I want to do a +4mil 68mm piston cub. I still have the stock clutch in and it was recommended that I do a lockout clutch. Other than seeing the sling shot lockout clutch picture on HJR website I have know idea what the purpose of it is. I guess I would need it because of the hp the motor would be producing is what I was told. Would anyone like to help me out with a detailed description of its purpose? Also if you could give me an exact list of what else I would need so I can figure out how much money this is going to cost or is this sling shot lockout something I can use with my stock basket? Next to the transmission. With the cub motor wish, what should I do in the transmission as it is also still stock. Again if someone would please put together an exact list of what I need done I would really appreciate it so I can figure out how much Im looking at. I have seen the star mod everywhere, seen some stuff about machining off every other dog/og off the gears, shift shaft mod and easy spring, shift detent bearing mod. What exactly do you guys consider a modified transmission for the motor Im trying to put together? All of this stuff, some of this stuff, please help? I don't expect you guys to do the leg work with prices, if you guys could just give me the specified list of what I need for the clutch and trans Ill do the price searching. Thanks for the help guys.

Yeah we are good to go and I appreciate your honest input, advise, and most importantly your patience. I know that I can be a pain in the ass. Its time for me to upgrade my motor but a lot of this stems from a friend of mine. I don't know exactly what he has, but know its a 7mil crank with stock cylinders, unknown port, stock carbs, stock head,T5's, from the visual. He can't ride it for shit cuz last year I beat him up the hill once with my bolt ons and was real close a couple more times but he smoked passed me after we got out of the whoop section. I know its fast as fuck cuz I rode it and was just crushing bikes all over the place, so if he ever learns how to ride it I could face some serious trash talking. This is my delimma in the stock cylinder drag port, becasue if I get that and still get beat i would be screwed. Seeing that the unported cub and stock cylinder drag port are more or less the same, the cub would at least allow me to drag port it where as the stock cylinders would be maxed out. Once again thanks for all the help and I'll be hitting you up as soon as I make up my mind.

I read on another discussion that the band should be about the thickness of a dime.