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Going through the trouble of trying to find someone with the skill that it would take to make that weld and even then trusting it in my opinion is no way worth it. If it came down to my banshee sitting or running redneck shit like that, my banshee would sit. I value my banshee to much to treat is like garbage and install some half ass shit on it for a short thrill of haulin ass. Besides would you really want to install something like that on your bike then ride it like you would normally knowin in the back of your mind there some shit that could blow at any time now. I'm with spurdy on this one, to much value at risk for a spare set when they aren't that tough to come by.

another member may know differently but no trick that I can recall. Just try and ensure that the tension is as released from the bracket giving the screw the ease of backing out. If you already have one screw out and the current cable is applying tension to the bracket it could be creating a pinch on the threads of the still installed screw making for difficult removal. Hope you get it out.

I thought you were just super busy or something and still haven't had time to get to your emails. I have my email linked to my phone and so I get my emails all day long and I have not received your reply yet. I thought mabey my phone was just jacked up so I logged into my email through my computer and theres no reply there either. Not in the inbox, spam, nothing. Will you please resend it, I guess something went wrong somewhere and I have been really looking forward to getting it. Thanks Email : cline.nahshon4@gmail.com

I am at 1,124 feet elevation, pro design head 21cc domes, T5's, 30mm carbs, V-force 2, dual uni foam filters, 200w stator and my banshee runs great.

Are you going to be buying the head from a site sponsor? If so, I am sure if you provide the sponsor of your choice, with the information you left in your post you'll definately get your answer. Quick question though. Are you going to continue to mod your banshee? If so, from what the toomey technicians told me as well as posted all over this site, the T6 pipe is going to work better with a stock motor while the T5 is recommended with modifications. Just something to think about.

I have owned a banshee since 2001 and was always in the same boat as you seem to be in........looking for a mechanic. Ill tell you the best place to look and its closer than you think. How about looking in the mirror. If you ride a banshee and are knowledgable enough to mix gas, read, and operate basic hand tools then your the man for the job. I have pissed away thousands of dollars into some other assholes pockets that always seem to give you pile of shit answers to your problems like what you origionally told us, "he's also more comfortable setting and jetting the stock ones." Obviously he cares about your money, not your bike, so here he goes filling your head with bullshit about your 34's being no good. Everyone has to learn sometime, somehow. Sounds like a good time for you to start. Don't under estimate your own ability as I did. Build up a little confidence, read your manual, and ask bansheehq for help and you good to go. Then you save thousands, develop self pride in your build/repair, and learn your bike and treat it properly so when problems arise you know how to do it yourself. Don't waste as much time and money as I did. Just my two cents though.

Nobody can help you unless you are extremely specific about your problem as well as your banshee and where you ride. You need post up everything....... -mods to your bike -where you were riding -temp, elevation -what carbs, main jet size, pilot jet size, needle position -what events led up to the blown O-ring -two stroke oil used and at what ratio -tors removed or not If you aren't specific about your problem you'll either get no response or 10,000 different responses which neither are going to get you anywhere. These guys on here are really sharp but you have to help them help you. To much information = Good Not enough information = Bad I would at least start with at least the items I suggested then if the experts require more they will ask you. Try this and your results will be much better.

By the way this brings up a question I was thinking about. Just watching some videos and looking through the manual I have seen torque specs between 20 and 60 ftlbs. What is the largest torque spec required on the banshee. I don't have a torque wrench and before I get one was wondering if there is a favorable one among the group. What ftlb range should the wrench I purchase have? Do you guys recommend a 3/8 or 1/2 drive?

Now thats some good info!!! Thanks for the tips and advise. I have caught on to some of the tools needed from checking out these forums and was aware that I needed the clutch holder and a fly wheel holder but didn't know about the motion pro tool that does them both. I appreciate the help.

Just FYI, the choke tube isn't the reason that your choke plunger tube will not stay out, "engaged," in the choke position. There is a little clip on the choke mechanism that clicks into the notches on the choke shaft that enables it to, "stay in place" when the rider engages it. When the clip goes bad choke doesn't stay engaged. This video may give you a better understanding of what I'm talking about. The video isn't super detailed all around but the choke part you will see is good enough for you to understand what I mean. If you are looking to replace your choke for proper operation Jeff at F.A.S.T. sells them. Heres the direct link to the plunger. Hope you get it figured out soon and back to riding. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&cat=CARBS/ INTAKES&offset=0

Thats awsome! I can't wait to get my order in so I can get my build up and going. I sent kevin an email yesterday with a bunch of questions but I am still anxiously awaiting his reply so I can move on from there. So what length swingarm you runnning beebs?

makes sense. thanks for all the input guys.

Yeah I plan on replaceing everything that needs to be replaced but not having taken it apart yet I won't know for sure what I need until then so thanks for the tip on the locking tabs. I have thoroughly viewed the bottom end assembly just was curious if you guys disassemble in a cretain gear then reassemble in the same gear or if this is even possible.

I've been running my VF2's since 2003 and never had a problem. Let me know if you use those fiberglass TDR replacements and how they work out.

I personally have never seen Klotz or any banshee stuff at an auto parts store such as Napa or Autozone. I have always purchased my 2 stroke oil from any of the local off road shops / Atv shops where I live or off rockymountainatv.com I am however a newer member to bansheehq so you may want to check the bansheehq site sponsor list to see if any of them offer it at a better price because I haven't had to purchase any since becoming a member so I don't know.

You're the man, I appreciate the info. I don't know if I should go 4mil Cub or 4mil stock cylinder drag port. I am at least a couple of weeks away from buying my parts from HJR so I look forward to your review of the Cub.

Good question as I was wondering the same thing about a 4mil drag/hillshoot in the sand. Number of paddles is what Im really curious about.

Alright guys sounds good. With your advise I feel much better. My last question is this........All the advise is to take it slow, and I plan to do this and probably take pictures so I reinstall everything as it was when I removed it......This being said is there a recommended gear that I should have the trans in for disassembly ( 1-N-2-3 )? Thanks for the help / advise guys

My bad, I only threw out the "couple hundred" because I was unaware of the route you had to take to get to your setup like the extra charge for a head if you didn't already have one and then the domes as well as extra for a drag port. So I just generalized the question. On your stock cylinders did you start with the dune/hillshoot port then move up to the drag port? You have Drag port cylinders for sale but list your mods under your pics as the dune/hillshoot port which is why I ask because like I said I am real close to traveling this same route and trying to get some experienced info. What length swingarm ar you using? I only have a +4 and was wondering if 80ish hp is going to be to short.

Same here. 40:1 with Klotz. I used to use motul 800 but found it hard to come by where I live so I switched to Klotz.

Im currently getting ready to use HJR for his 4mil setup and was just wondering why you chose the 4mil stock setup over the 4mil cub setup for only a couple hundred more? I was origionally thinking about the +4mil stock cylinder but I don't know if I should just go for the +4 cub. Is there an upside of just sticking with the stock cylinders?

Thats what I keep hearing and I have replaced the top end before and to tell you the truth that was simple. I also have viewed the bottom end assembly in the tech info section, I think that using that along with the manual I should be good but theres just a couple things that worry me. I see guys in here all the time having trouble with the clutch and the trans during rebuild and it would kill me if I wrecked my new motor. Does anyone else think my practice idea is stupid? Has everyone else just made it happen on their first expensive build with new parts?

Im not sure weather or not you will need a spacer plate to do the 4mil the way you're thinking but I have always been told if I was going to do a motor to do it the right way. Instead of spending the money on spacers why not just shell out or save up for a cool head or get the stock head milled. If you plan on going the 4mil route you'll probably be happier purchasing a cool head opposed to a spacer plate in the long run.

Alright guys heres the deal. I am getting real close to getting in touch with HJR with my parts list / ideas about where I want to go with my banshee but I was wondering what you all think about this or if anyone else has ever thought like this......... I'm pretty sure my build is going to cost somewhere in the ball park of $2000-2500 but I have never disassembled / reassembled the motor before and I'm tired of not knowing how so it's my time to learn. I am mechanically enclined, already have a clymers manual, and have taken the shee completely apart (minus motor) at least 4 times to change bent frame. The motor runs fine right now so I was thinking about disassembling it then reassembling it as it sits right now just for practice to see if I can successfully accomplish it. My reasoning would be to avoid screwing it up and it costing me $2500. Anyone else ever do this before? When I do this can I reuse everything (gaskets, seals, bearings, bendable lock washers, ect. ) or does someone want to make me a parts list on what I would have to replace at a minimum to accomplish this type of rebuild. I also have a pro design cool head installed with 21cc domes. Can I reuse the o-rings it the head? Thanks BHQ

These guys are pretty sharp on here and seem to know all when it comes to banshees. If one particular member doesn't have the answer they usually know where to point you on who does. So an idea I would suggest is to take as many clear and up close pictures from different angles that you can and put them in your next post so the members can see the head you're talking about. You never know........markings or not someone might be able to identify the head so you can get the proper o-ring replacement kit.