cline

slipknot23 I watched the video link you posted and thought it was awsome and gives me a better idea what to do when my time comes. My question is when I am doing the mid throttle sync I didnt understand the part about having a buddy hold the throttle cable out at around 5000 or 6000 rpm. Could I still sync the carbs at mid throttle if I were to set the throttle stop at the half way point then used the actual thumb lever to increase the rpm's to 5000ish?

Thanks guys! I am now up to speed on doing a compression test. You guys are awsome and thanks so much for steering me in the right direction.

Prior to the beginning of 2012 I was that guy getting raped by all the quad shops that took all my money and returned me a pile of shit which is why I don't know a lot. I have recently been asking a lot of questions but trust me I have read way more in here than I have opened my mouth so I hope that I am not annoying you knowledgeable veteran guys. I read every day in here as well as use the search bar but some things I just can't seem to find the definitive answer to. Ok so I hear guys in here all the time talking about doing compression tests and have gathered that it measures psi in each cylinder but I have never seen how the compression test is accomplished or what tools are need to do one. Any descriptive outlines, tutorials, videos, links ect. would really be appreciated. Thanks for the help

From what I saw a veteran member tell another guy that asked your same question about the shout box is that you have to have 15 posts before you can use it.

Couplex and Larry, Both of you are awsome and I really appreciate the time you two took in writing up the info you gave up for me as well as some of the other newer guys. This took me from lost in the sauce as I was prior to today to at least having some sort of a clue when it comes to a bundle of tech questions that I had. This puts me a lot closer in narrowing my options when I choose my direction to do my upgrade. Thanks again

outstanding guys, thanks thus far. So the stroke lengths make a lot more sense now just being added from the stock stroke. Can you explain to me another term that I have heard. I have heard some say, "I have a true 7mil motor without spacer plates." What would be the difference between a regular 7mil motor and a 7mil motor with spacer plates? Larry you stated that the 115mm rod length "is used to improve angle," so does this suggest that everyone uses a 115mm rod? If not why wouldn't a rider want an improvement and choose to go with the 110mm length? Lastly if a comparison was done all mods being the same what would be the difference in horsepower from a 4mil to a 7mil? Thanks for being patient guys while I try and learn.

I am really excited to head down the road to my first rebuild/upgrade but I need all of your help because I hear terms used but even after reading my ass off in here I still find myself not being able to answer my questions. When it comes to cranks I hear 4mil 7mil and 10mil. Then I also hear some members say they have strokers and them some don't mention it. I have seen that there are different rod lengths such as 110mm and 115mm. This is what I hear but now I'd like to be able to understand what I'm reading. What is the difference between stock, 4mil, 7mil, and 10mil? Is a 4mil motor and a 4mil stroker motor different and if so what is the difference? Is the rod length what makes the difference in between the two? Thanks for your help and please check back because I have more questions but I'd rather understand this first before I reply with my others. Thanks again!

I see that it was already mentioned on here a couple replys back but I just wanted to chime in and say that I have purchased the bracket from Rocky mountain that bolts to the two rear bolts on the gas tank under the front of the seat. It is cheap and fairly easy to instal. Only thing I had to do was open up the wire harness a little to give it the slack needed to sit in the new position because the harness is obviously designed for the key to be in the handle bar area.

I see that it was already mentioned on here a couple replys back but I just wanted to chime in and say that I have purchased the bracket from Rocky mountain that bolts to the two rear bolts on the gas tank under the front of the seat. It is cheap and fairly easy to instal. Only thing I had to do was open up the wire harness a little to give it the slack needed to sit in the new position because the harness is obviously designed for the key to be in the handle bar area.

I read an awsome thread in here not to long back about breaking new a new rebuild and I just tryed to find it for you real quick with no luck. From what I have gathered in here so far there is not a defined standard way of breaking in a new rebuild. Everyone seems to have their little twist or different steps that they take in accomplishing the break in. You'll get answers form ride it like you stole it to baby it for 3 tanks of gas and everything in between. If you search "break in" or "heat cycles" in the search tab you will get plenty of discussions to read and put together the knowledge you need to do yours the way you feel necessary. A couple of important parts that I have seen many members mention is to make sure and never leave the throttle in one position for a period of time (keep the RPM's continuously changing) and to recheck head torque. Trust me I have seen many different responses to this question so if you read what you find you'll feel better about figuring out, "your" break in method.

yes you can remove the individual wires from each connector plug. As n2 already stated, if you look down inside the plug you can use a very small object to release each individual wire because each of them are inserted into the plug from the back side until they snap into place. I have used a needle to do it before or you can try what I have heard on here which is a pick. Then you wont need a new connector plug. Just repair you wire then plug it back into the plug.

I gave 13/41 a shot for a while and was absolutely unimpressed. I ride at the Glamis sand dunes and thought it might give me a little jump off the line when running the hill. Maybe but not so much that I was amazed by the switch. What I was amazed was how much it jacked up the top end. It would rap 4th out to death when running the hill but shifting into 5th bogged and sucked bad. Bottom line I went back to 14/41. IMO I think 13/41 sucks for any top end application.

You should really check out the forum tab titled technical info on the forums main page. I am not a new banshee owner but I am new to this site and its plethora of amazing knowledge and I will tell you there is some amazing information on here. Site member tedd1 wrote an amazingly detailed discussion on the banshee electrical system that will blow your mind. I suggest you read that once or twice, then do some trial and error, if you then have no luck you can be really specific in your posts to get responses from members who can really help you pin point your problem. After you read the post I am refering you to you'll see what i mean because your question of, "any suggestions on what to do next," could get you a hundred different responces leaving you running through your bike all over the place. Hope this helps and good luck. Heres the link. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

I just viewed a discussion not to long ago and there were at least three different devices used by different members that seemed to produce the same result.......removing the bearing successfully. Other than that I will beat the dead horse and say what I have already read from all the other wise men on here a million times. Get yourself a clymers manual which is a banshee owners must have tool to be added to you tool box. Heres the link to the discussion hope it at least gets you started or helps some. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151491&st=0&p=1310413&hl=+steering%20+stem%20+bearing&fromsearch=1entry1310413

To order from F.A.S.T. there are many different ways to find his information I am sure, but I will guide you in the right direction and you can take it from there. On the top right corner of the forums page and it's probly in many other spots as well but anyways there is a box that says "BansheeHQ Sponsors From mild to wild... They have it all." Click on this box and it will take you to the spot that displays all the site sponsors. Scroll throught the list until you find F.A.S.T. which is one of the first few if I remember correctly and click on his link. Once you are in his site have a blast and contact him.

Bkm2006, Thanks for the input. After almost 40 views on my question you are the lone ranger with a response. Maybe my question sucks or the lack of answers is the answer to, "would switching to the CPI or Shearer opposed to the T-5 on the same motor really make a huge difference?" I noticed that your setup is right in the same neighborhood of where mine is headed. By chance do you know what horesepower you are putting out? What carbs are you using?

Alright guys my question is what inframe pipe set is the best out of the three listed here (T-5's, CPI, Shearer). I ride the sand dunes at Glamis CA and love to haul ass in the dunes as well as shoot the hill as much as I can. After reading a bunch on here as well as asking for all of your advise I have a pretty good idea on the direction ill be taking my motor but haven't called F.A.S.T. yet to work with him on the particulars yet because I need to gather a little more money. I currently have T-5's and was wondering what would be the difference if switching to the CPI or Shearer for the type of riding that I do. Is there a dyno sheet out there anywhere that compares the three? Would switching to the CPI or Shearer opposed to the T-5 on the same motor really make a huge difference? Thanks in advance for your insight. -Shon

I appreciate all of your input, thanks guys. I just recently caught wind of this web site and love all the feedback and knowledge on here. I have always wanted to just dive in as you all say but just have second guessed myself for some reason....don't know why though. I have taken my bike completely apart a hundred times and reassembled but just figured that I'd leave the engine stuff to the guys that are supposed to know whats up. But you are all right, everytime I give my bike to some shop they rape me for all my money and give me back a pile of shit. One of the first threads I read when I created my account here was the bottom end assembly in the Technical topic area by bigred350x. I probably be the millionth member to thank him but that step by step is awsome. I realized right then that this motor isn't rocket science and I don't see myself having difficulty doing this at all. Im excited to get started but my wife is already all over my ass about finishing our move. So as soon as I finish the move Im going to tear it apart and find what was described to me, take the pictures, and put them on for all of your input. Thanks again guys for the advise and support.

Alright guys a couple days ago I asked for some advise about doing my first engine upgrade and more than a few of you left good advise so thanks for all the input thus far. Next order of business I could use advise on. Last year when I was riding my shifter became limp/broken. I was pretty much stuck in 4th gear and my shifter sagged below the foot peg and flimsily bounced around. Anyway I spent another fortune to have someone fix my banshee and because I was sick and tired of my bike being broke all the time I asked him to do a full disassembly and inspection and he found it to be the shift shaft alignment bolt was broken. Here is the thing though.....he said upon dissassembly and inspection that where the crank seals sit in the cases that there were score marks on the cases and appeared as if the crank was trying to rotate. He suggested that I replace the cases soon and said that when he reassembled he used loctite in between the case and crank seal. So if I am going to do a performance upgrade it would be a damn shame to do it in junky cases. Has this ever happened to anyone else? If so when I get new cases how do I avoid this from happening again? Is this something that one of the bansheehq sponsors machine shops can fix? Lastly, if not, where can I get the best deal on new cases? Thanks guys.

Zach, WFO, and BUILDER thanks for your input so far I appreciate it. So to mabey help you guys a little more to maybe steer me closer to a possible solution the only place my banshee touches the ground these days is the Imperial sand dunes in Glamis CA. Lets say I was able to throw $1500 to a rebuild and upgrade. All three of you suggest porting.....Is this the term I always here riders speak of when they say, "my motor is ported and polished?" I only ask because all three of you mention porting but none said polish? Ball park what that would run me to give me an idea where I stand on being able to replace other parts. When I commit to doing this I want to do it right the first time. Since my shee is an 01 what else should I replace to assist in the rebuild/upgrade? I guess not for more horsepower, but to increase the reliability of the new motor (crank, flywheel, clutch basket, water pump rebuild, pistons).....does this make sense or am I crazy? Thanks guys for the welcome and the help. -Shon

Hey all banshee owners I’m new to this site and from what I’ve seen in the forums so far this looks like a dream come true. I have a million questions (it seems like anyways) and I know there are a great many of you on here that can provide me with the insight I hope to receive if you wish to respond. Currently I ride a 2001 banshee, pro design cool head 21cc domes, Toomey T-5’s, V force 2 reeds, 30 mm knock off Keihin carbs with dual stage uni foam filters, Ricky stator 200W with adjustable timing plate, +4 lonestar swingarm. As you can see all bolt on performance but I would like to take the jump into the motor and this is where I could use all of your expert knowledge. Last time I took it to a shop I think I was told it was putting 45 horsepower on the dyno but can’t remember for sure. I know there are a million possibilities with a banshee but this is what I would like to accomplish and maybe all of you will give me your opinions or facts. Really I’m not trying to build a missile just what I refer to as my stock set up isn’t fast at all anymore. I have ridden my buddies’ bikes; one is a 370 long rod with dual 35mm Keihin and the other a 7mil stroker with the stock mikuni carbs. Here’s the thing though they both seem to fill their gas tanks twice as much as me. Is it possible to get more power out of my bike without only being able to ride a couple miles from camp before I start worrying about running out of gas all the time like my friends? If it is possible what suggestions or information do you have? If it is not then I guess it is what it is so I would like to hear suggestions or ideas about where I could go from here. Also, using the existing bolt on parts that I already have what would be the necessary parts I would need and about (estimation) what horsepower would I get if I were to pursue a 370 long rod build, a 4 mil stroker build, or a 7 mil stroker build? Thanks to all and I would appreciate all info.

I'm not an expert by any means but I run a +4 lonestar swingarm with the stock shock at 200lbs with no issues.