cline

Those looks real good. I have seen a lot of guys on here going to the krylon fusion and it is really tempting me instead of going the $500 route of new plastics.

I am no english teacher either, but thats some funny shit.

I see this is your first post so with that said, the more info you give and the more specific you are, the better response you are probably going to get. If you say I go to put it in gear and nothing happens, does this mean that you can't get it in gear? Or does this mean you get it into gear and nothing happens? With just those two simple senerios if you cant get it into gear I'd say transmmission issue. If you can get it into gear and nothing happens then I'd say clutch.

I never been around a real hopped up trx 450r but the couple I been around seemed super slow in comparison to the banshee

Its always safe to start rich and work your way down so if you are going to go with pods I would at least start with a 300 or 310. Airbox I couldn't tell ya, That was the first to go when I started riding banshees.

When I first took my airbox off with FMF's and went to pods I went to a 310 at 1000ft im pretty sure.

If you are looking to buy a new crank here is the link to the cranks at HJR and FAST. Just the first two I picked up for you. Im sure all of the other sponsors have cranks as well. Take your pick. Youll have to as the sponsor you chose to purchase from about the true and weld. HJR http://www.herrjugsracing.com/Cranks_Pistons_Cylinders_Cases.html F.A.S.T. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=7

In your leakdown test the pics of your gauge looks to be right around the 10psi range. Everything that I have ever read in here says not to go past 6psi or you can cause problems for yourself. Obviously your motor is screwed right now but for future leakdown tests just thought I'd put that out there.

Ive always been told that only serious drag bikes go past +4. As far as it being no good IDK but thats what ive always heard.

Fish story thats funny . As far as the poted banshee against the 660 raptor I'm going with the banshee unless rider sucks.

Spurdy has really broken it down for you yet you continue to ask him about seeing how far you can push the limits of reliability. He is doing you a favor and you even thanked him for the insight and info but is it really sinking in? He is trying to save you from absolute catastrophe but you continue to ask, well what if I do this, what if I do that? Basically he is saying that on average from a site sponsor it costs $65 to true and weld a crank. $65 compared to a new motor = priceless. Here is a thread that was started today, mabey you should read through it. Information you should take from it is, Rod broke (crank failure), head might be fucked, cases top and bottom have holes and are ruined. What do you think? Wanna keep pushing the limit and chance your motor or spend $65. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=153502

Well thats awsome, Im jealous. Hope the ride goes awsome. Like I said I have only been for those other holidays. Are all the vendors still out there for Easter? Is it a real packed holiday like Halloween and Thanksgiving?

that looks great. good job. those look a million times better than the before picture. So you said it took about 2 and a half hours? How much did the supplies cost approximately?

Holly shit Ive never been out there for easter. Isn't it hot as fuck? I have only been Halloween, Thanksgiving, New Years, Presidents day.

These guys suggested that sync tool becase, your eye might say the slides look good but the vacuum measured by the tool could show show differnt readings through each carb. The sync tool is where its at to be sure and answer your question, "How much Syncing can you do to these carbs?"

Graphics don't look bad for $15. It's funny that you say you got tired of your boreing blue and white so thats why you put them on. I have had graphics on mine since 2004 and I am getting ready to pull them off cuz I'm tired of graphics and ready to go back solid.

Damn you move quick. I seen a couple weeks back when you sold your other two bikes and started talking about a new build. Had no idea you'd be up and running this quick. Well it looks as if it gonna do what you want it to, "wheelie on command and smoke 4 pokes." Have fun with that, looks like it will be a blast.

Thats some funny ass shit I like your method of thinking. I have a similar situation that I am looking forward to this year. My buddy also has an LTR and last year we were neck and neck. He said this year hes gonna have a pipe and some other stuff so he is gonna smoke all over me............he doesn't know I'm gonna go the 4mil ported route and I'm also not gonna tell him I changed anything.

X2 on the $14 dollar kits. That beats spending hundreds on those 28mm airstrikers.

I definately agree with the others. Swing arm length is all going to be your preference, you can't really ask for advise on that because guys are going to tell you what they like. I know you said going from the ground up so I don't know if this means you have a stock swinger or not but heres what I would do if you are unsure. I would build everything as planned but run the stock swinger for a while. Then you will get used to how the bike handles and performs in the powerband over the woops, jumps, hills. After you get the feel for what you think you are capable of doing with the motor you built you might have a better idea if you want to go minus or plus on the swinger. My 2 cents. Have fun with the build.

As suggested earlier make sure to do a leakdown test prior to disassembling the motor. If you have a leak, and you can't find it this will assist you in finding it. Here is the link on how to build one. After you have it built and your motor sitting at 6psi, I have heard guys say to use either warm soapy water or windex to spray around motor to check for the leak. Both I'm sure create a super nice air bubble for you to find the leak your naked eye can not see. Good luck. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585

Welcome to the addiction and to being broke. You have a stock bike so be prepared to shell out some serious coin in the near future. As soon as you hear and see a nice piped banshee roll up you'll be giving up anywhere from about $350 to $650 on pipes because that seems to be the first mod a stock bike sees, and trust me you'll want some. As far as the carbs go check out this link as it is amazing info on the banshee stock carbs. Good luck and read your ass off in here because its a gold mine of information. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

Just to help everybody out, should we all assume that you have stock carbs or do you have other? Also knowing your air flow situation is going to get you much better responses such as, do you have the air box complete, air box no lid, K & N's, Uni foam filters? Another factor you might want to include is current air temp you plan on jetting for.

From my experience and from what I understand the smoke is caused from running your bike real rich. If you are trying to clean it up do a plug chop and see where you stand. If your plugs are way to dark and you want to rejet then I will suggest what I see others say all the time which is to only change one thing at a time. Then rejet starting to work your way down and check plugs to make sure you don't go to lean. As I see Larrys shee tell people all the time, "plugs are cheaper than pistons "

This was discussed a while back about the cleaning your needle seat and float needle with toothpaste. Here it is. http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/