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had couple sets. theyre collecting dust. once the drivlines showed up there wasnt much use for em

why not do a aluninum shift drum and star while you at it. shouldn't be to difficult and would certainly knock some weight off

this is just me but I would do a dry run. make sure the cylinders go down easily on the cases with dowels installed. if not you may need to use some sand paper or dremel in the cylinder holes because the machining is likely off a bit. you don't want to have to beat them on. next make sure the head goes on easily. there should be plenty of slop cast into the head holes for this. if it wont go on easily then I would suspect again the cylinder studs have bad machining. may need to ream the head holes slightly. beat it on with a mallet if you want but I wouldn't. after your done you may want to take a look and see if the combustion chamber is still mostly centered over the bore with no large protrusions.

using one pipe on a wide range of engines may well lead to diappointment. theres no blame that could be put on arlen for that. hes probly one of the sharpest guys around regarding pipes. when i get around to pipes ill have arlen make some one offs rather than one size fits all

is the 10 use the same diam webs as the 4 ?

whats a sport port. either it hauls ass or it don't

probly could buy a nice tool set and did it yourself for what you've paid out so far

dynamite in the gas tank bro. be sure to stand close when it explodes

that moderator must have nerves of steel to put up with this nonsense

surely nobody would drive with no oil in the gearbox then dare ask why it barely shifts now

gauge pin would probly be easiest way. find a machine shop with gaug pin set and they probly do it for free

no i havent called. so fox are no good ? i was just planing on shaws. ya theyre only a notch above no suspension at all but theres not much other choice if you want the lightest setup possible

theyre also lite. likely the main reason theyre on a ton of drag bikes. I looked into fox and it didn't appear they made any extra lengths other than standard, atleast not that I could find on their site. elka, ohlins and others that are similar are not a good choice when your trying to shave every ounce you can. sure they may have more advanced adjustability but who gives a horses ass when theyre adding 10 lbs. its a shame there isn't a true drag race suspension out there. I just don't think the demand is there for any company to take interest. I wonder what the fox system weighs compared to shaws ?

im guessing you meen the big pin in the center that connects both crankcases is what broke ? the only one I seen to fail in that area was a wiseco but even the higher quality stuff isn't immune to breakage. the chances that pin would break are very slim I would say but hell someone will probly win the lottery this week so it could happen

for the average joe I think the crankworks are closer to a G. atleast that's what they told me but since the webs are never the part that breaks it doesnt make sense to go that route. well unless your one of them geniuses that holds a impact on the flywheel nut for 5min and breaks the end off

you can get sprockets at alot of places depending what brand and material you want

damn stators always fallin off when ya least expect it

amsoil rubbed me the wrong way when it seemed like they were saturating the internet with infomercials. trying to buy customers is what it equaled to imo. hell I couldn't even watch a youtube video with out seeing some amsoil ad. got real annoying after a while. bean oil is where its at fo sho

last i heard this was anti amsoil site. take your nonsense elsewhere haha

unlikely youll have any problem with supertech. benol is another matter. I don't use it below 45 because the trouble ive had with it. turns cloudy and its down hill from there. clogged pilot jet more than once

what brand webs would you be willing to sell ?

tdr sells a lot of items and some may be reasonably priced but some are way out in left field. his hinson straight cuts for $700. bought some new a month or so ago for $600 to my door from ebay. his $80 nachi roller bearing is full blown retail. the finest german rollers can be had for about $50

$20 says the dial type confuses the hell out of him

ive only glanced at the tdr site a few times but his prices don't seem very good. ebay seems to be the way to go from my experience

cam is right about the cheapo stuff getting the job done for what youll be using them for but if you keep your eyes open youll find used decent quality stuff on ebay for not much more than cheapo stuff. that's the better way to go imo. the three tools I would get is bore gauge to double check machinists work. micrometer for checking pistons nad caliper for measuring odd and ends. as for measuring tools I doubt youll need more tools than these but you can buy what ever you feel necessary. depending how deep in engine work you plan to go, theres a lot of specialty tools you would want.