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if I needed a wrench set right away and had little money and had a sears down the street , its likely I would do the craftsman. after owning other brands I have really no interest in using craftsman stuff. snapon wrenches are pretty sweet imo. to me the geometry is just a lot better. I have a lot of craftsman but it was all handed down to me and its mostly never been used because I prefer other brands. I should sell it and free up some space in the garage. torq wrenches and shit like that I feel craftsman is not nearly on par with some of the others brands

craftman is on the lowend of the scale for folks that cant afford the good stuff

i dont know specificaly about the gauge but plenty of cfatsman stuff is garbage

remember that pile o crap craftsman china universal joint I smashed to bits. $7 new from ebay Armstrong usa

oh u must meen chariot who still doesnt have as much as a photo of that new cover

and probly the only guy on this site with schooling thats somewhat relevant in this industry.

since when does the rod know or care what piston is attached to it

might have better luck with more details. are you original owner. what year was it made. do you have certificate of origin. has it been wrecked, repaired,modified . is it powdercoat,paint,clearcoat. is it +6,8,10,12

if you want any more specific help you better include a lot more details of where you ride mostly, the terrain, bike setup, budget etc.

roll out as explained by skatrak is the carcass circumference at 15psi. theres also different levels of buffs depending what your using the tire for. wheels have different thickness for intended purpose also. couldn't tell you what size or paddle count to use but I would stay away from blue label and superlite triple buffs unless you drag race 100% of the time

cdi is tucked away pretty well. how does it get all banged up like that ?

haha atleast no one can steal it as his name clearly written on the back

doesnt matter if they fall apart tomorow. ill glady buy usa junk than give a penny to china

im liking the Armstrong line of tools. found some on ebay im bidding on

heres what I think of craftsman tool from china. smashed it with hammer and in the garbage it goes

youll never see a product with a big sticker saying proudly made in china. just the opposite you need a magnifying glass because its small print down in the corner theyre so ashamed. fuk the republic of china and theyre communist garbage found these just today at local weld store. don't bother looking at a pair of millers or most any other glove company. all made in china

heres what im saying. why use a big ass fuel cap like a lot of people when you can use a small 1"-1-1/2" and machine out the center. why lug around 2gal fuel when you can cut it in half with 1gal. how dare we reinvent the wheel

what part of this needs more clarification ?

I must confess I thought the stock drum felt alittle heavy that's why I brought it up. maybe a aluminum drum would or wouldn't work out but its been done before so it probly isn't the worlds worst idea. like anything I guess a lot would depend on how much thought went into the design

the plastic star isn't even a bad idea imo, except that its keyed to the drum. seems like it may develop slop a bit easier than aluminum or steel

with a override I don't think it would matter if you had 10000hp. on a standard trans, trying to shift under full power with no clutch, something is going to wear sooner than later. my guess would be the forks or fork shafts would take the brundt of abuse

is that so. if I didn't know any better I would swear these are aluminum. http://www.ebay.com/itm/KTM-Shift-Drum-Forks-01-520SX-/150781738094http://www.ebay.com/itm/KTM-Shift-Drum-250-300-360-380-XC-EXC-SX-MXC-SXS-transmission-shifting-300MXC-/301864637777?hash=item464888d551:g:RjUAAOSwu4BV7Gz7&vxp=mtr most wouldn't notice but the fork nipple has a sleeve so it can roll through the chanell. substantially eliminating most all the wear on the chanell sides I would imagine. banging gears all day on a mx track couldn't be any easier on a drum than what any of us do. my opinion of the stock drum is simple. it looks like a low grade cast steel of some sort from what I could tell. probly doesn't even weld worth a crap unfortunately far to many people immediately disregard a idea before theyve investigated the matter claude the 7075 material for a drum is peanuts. if you have the time and machines then you have nothing to lose

im sure the problem is the chinese machining